500G (84X48X30)- NOW REAL !
- Thread starter Sanjay
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Sanjay
Premium Member
Here is how I did my rough calculations:
Glass density: 2.6 g/cc (found this somewhere on the web)
which is about .07 lb/square inch, or 10.14 lb/square foot for 3/4" glass.
Computed the total surface area of the glass used - including overlfow box and eurobracing. I did not account for any dimension reductions due to overlap of edges or holes drilled etc (hence the approx). I would much rather make the error on the high side.
But just for kicks - going backward from your estimate.. my tank is only 1 ft shorter in length than your tank. So the only major difference would be the 48X12" reduction in area of the bottom glass+30X12" reduction on the front and back . This is a reduction of 1296 sq inches or 9 sq ft. So 9 sq ft X 10 lb.sq foot gives me 90 lbs. And 1100-90 = 1010 lbs.. within my "rough approximation"
sanjay.
Glass density: 2.6 g/cc (found this somewhere on the web)
which is about .07 lb/square inch, or 10.14 lb/square foot for 3/4" glass.
Computed the total surface area of the glass used - including overlfow box and eurobracing. I did not account for any dimension reductions due to overlap of edges or holes drilled etc (hence the approx). I would much rather make the error on the high side.
But just for kicks - going backward from your estimate.. my tank is only 1 ft shorter in length than your tank. So the only major difference would be the 48X12" reduction in area of the bottom glass+30X12" reduction on the front and back . This is a reduction of 1296 sq inches or 9 sq ft. So 9 sq ft X 10 lb.sq foot gives me 90 lbs. And 1100-90 = 1010 lbs.. within my "rough approximation"
sanjay.
Phantom Phish
New member
Sanjay:
Thanks for the info on the weight of 3/4" glass, I've been looking for that to estimate the weight of a tank I'm considering. I'm thinking I might copy your design, but on a somewhat smaller scale (60" x 36" x 30" overall tank dimensions).
If you don't mind, what is the width of your eurobracing, and is that also 3/4" glass?
TIA
Thanks for the info on the weight of 3/4" glass, I've been looking for that to estimate the weight of a tank I'm considering. I'm thinking I might copy your design, but on a somewhat smaller scale (60" x 36" x 30" overall tank dimensions).
If you don't mind, what is the width of your eurobracing, and is that also 3/4" glass?
TIA
JCURRY@WESKETCH
New member
Sanjay
I noticed you spec'd out true union ball valves on either side of all your pumps. That's a little overkill, you only really need single union ball valves on the pumps and unions on the plumbing to the reactors. Since you probably will never need to take the valve off the sump and really only need to remove the pump for servicing not the plumbing. The single union valves are much cheaper than true union valves.
Nice tank BTW
I noticed you spec'd out true union ball valves on either side of all your pumps. That's a little overkill, you only really need single union ball valves on the pumps and unions on the plumbing to the reactors. Since you probably will never need to take the valve off the sump and really only need to remove the pump for servicing not the plumbing. The single union valves are much cheaper than true union valves.
Nice tank BTW
jnarowe
New member
I disagree. There are times when you decide to change something etc. and need the other union. And I screwed up and put a single union on the outflow of my return pump, and it's on backwards. So when I remove the pump I get some water out of the return riser & manifold. It's not a lot, but had I used a true union there would be no problem. Sure it's a mistake I made, but a few more dollars and it wouldn't be a mistake!
What happened was I put the true union between the pump and the sump when that one should have gone on the return side. I may be able to swap them but I haven't looked into that yet. <ramble> but my point is it could have been avoided with a true union.
What happened was I put the true union between the pump and the sump when that one should have gone on the return side. I may be able to swap them but I haven't looked into that yet. <ramble> but my point is it could have been avoided with a true union.
JCURRY@WESKETCH
New member
Correct if you put the union side on the pump you wouldn't have that problem. If you used threaded bushings instead of slip (glue-in) you could easily correct your mistake and you could easily reuse the valves if the plumbing layout ever needs to be changed. But we all know that never happens! LOL
Single union valves $27 +/-
True union valves $34 +/-
$7 / valve x 9 = $63 savings on 2" valves alone
Granted not that much of a savings on a 500 gallon tank but being able to value engineer all the way through a project will add up in the end.
BTW I have true union valves between my sump and pumps and never in 10 years have I needed to take the valve off the sump. Its just one of those that erks me everytime I look at it.
Single union valves $27 +/-
True union valves $34 +/-
$7 / valve x 9 = $63 savings on 2" valves alone
Granted not that much of a savings on a 500 gallon tank but being able to value engineer all the way through a project will add up in the end.
BTW I have true union valves between my sump and pumps and never in 10 years have I needed to take the valve off the sump. Its just one of those that erks me everytime I look at it.
cali_reef
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7090254#post7090254 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sanjay
WOHOOO !! Tank is being built... now I better hurry and get ready for it.
Here is the picture of the overflow glued to the back pane. The other smaller overflow box in the picture is not mine.
sanjay.
Very nice overflow box, any durso pipes with the "short" overflow?
What is the thickness of the glass on your tank and any center brace?
juststartingout
New member
Sanjay,
Great project/thread!! I am looking forward to it's progress. Do you think 3 of the L3 reflectors would be adequate for a tank dimension of 96x36?
Great project/thread!! I am looking forward to it's progress. Do you think 3 of the L3 reflectors would be adequate for a tank dimension of 96x36?
Sanjay
Premium Member
Well, depends on what you are trying to do with your lighting. You could light it with one lamp
, depending on your aquascaping.However, if you want a wall to wall lit tank.. then I would recommend going with 4.
I prefer to aquascape based on the lighting. I know in my tank I want to leave open spaces at the ends, atleast about a foot on each end.. that leaves me with about 5ft of linear length to light with decent intensity. I can get that with 3 lamps.
sanjay.
Sanjay
Premium Member
I wanted to leave the open spaces at the ends for better water flow, and for lower light corals too. I like to keep a wide range of corals and with a big enough tank it would be easier to provide regions where they would be happy.
Also, aesthetically I like the look of tanks that are not wall to wall live rock.
sanjay.
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