500G (84X48X30)- NOW REAL !
- Thread starter Sanjay
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Chihuahua6
Premium Member
Sanjay I have to thank you for posting your progress. You have given me many ideas that I want to incorporate into my setup. The first picture with the overflow and two drilled holes is exactly how I envisioned mine to look. I like the idea of putting new fish in the overflow. I hadn't thought of this. The Schiemer Stand is awesome. I was planning on building the stand with 2X6s but I'm doing it this was after seeing that picture. The landlord of the building we rent owns a metal farication company so we can get the beams for a good price. I'm very psyched about this because the fish room is also my laundry room and I want to keep as much equipment under the tank as possible to keep the room neat and uncluttered.
I can't wait to see how your setup progresses. It looks great so far.
I can't wait to see how your setup progresses. It looks great so far.
Book-matched veneer...notice how the grain patterns on the pieces are almost mirror images? The only issue is that one of the doors needs to be rotated 180 degrees for it to show up more there. On the top piece, the image mirrors across a hoizontal line. If the veneer were just being rotary cut and then glued up normally, the pattern would repeat, instead of mirroring.
Book-matched veneer is used for higher-end cabinetry, as it usually costs more, because someone has to pay attention.
Book-matched veneer is used for higher-end cabinetry, as it usually costs more, because someone has to pay attention.
KNUCKLEHEAD
Premium Member
Matchbook
Matchbook
The man is right about rotating one door on the bottom.
It looks like if you rotate the left door, you`re matchbook look will be complete.
Hopefully, as you say they`re removable, you`ve made them identical & easily rotate-able.
Matchbook
The man is right about rotating one door on the bottom.
It looks like if you rotate the left door, you`re matchbook look will be complete.
Hopefully, as you say they`re removable, you`ve made them identical & easily rotate-able.
badbones
Premium Member
Kudo's to the builder of the cabinet!! Looks like he/she did a nice job. In regards to the bookmatch work, It was probably not intentional I bet. From my experience it was just the sheet of plywood used. Like someone said earlier, its a thin sheet of veneer, which is also used in high quality plywood like oak, birch, cherry ect.
Sanjay,
How did you secure the plywood to the I-beams and then how about the styrofoam to the plywood?
Also did you have to shim the stand to make it totally level at all?
Tony
Sanjay,
How did you secure the plywood to the I-beams and then how about the styrofoam to the plywood?
Also did you have to shim the stand to make it totally level at all?
Tony
Sanjay
Premium Member
Well, we did try to cut the plywood so that the larger peices would have a good look to it, and the peices would kind of match, within the limitations of the sheets we had.
The nice thing about the 4" I-beam is that a 2X4 fits into the I perfectly with a tight fit. We still bolted the 2X4 to the beam, which gave is the wood surface to use for attaching the cabinet. A 2X4 was also bolted to the underside of the I, and a 2X4 was attached to the floor with tap con screws.
The plywood is was not really screwed on to the beams... but is held by some adhesive we picked up at lowes. the styrofoam is glued to the plywood with the same adhesive. I dont remember the name... but I tried to pick one that I felt would not chemically react with the styrofoam over time.
The one problem we ran into is that the I beams had slight roll to them after welding, and the floor was not even. When we put the tank on the stand.. the tank was perflectly level but there were some gaps between the plywood and the steel beams. So while the tank was level sitting on the stand, somehow the stand was not. When we tried to shim the stand.. the tank was no longer level and the gap was still there between the plywood and the steel. I guess the overdesigned steel stand was unable to deform with the shimming. So we went ahead and shimmed the gaps between the plywood and the steel to take care of the problem.
sanjay.
The nice thing about the 4" I-beam is that a 2X4 fits into the I perfectly with a tight fit. We still bolted the 2X4 to the beam, which gave is the wood surface to use for attaching the cabinet. A 2X4 was also bolted to the underside of the I, and a 2X4 was attached to the floor with tap con screws.
The plywood is was not really screwed on to the beams... but is held by some adhesive we picked up at lowes. the styrofoam is glued to the plywood with the same adhesive. I dont remember the name... but I tried to pick one that I felt would not chemically react with the styrofoam over time.
The one problem we ran into is that the I beams had slight roll to them after welding, and the floor was not even. When we put the tank on the stand.. the tank was perflectly level but there were some gaps between the plywood and the steel beams. So while the tank was level sitting on the stand, somehow the stand was not. When we tried to shim the stand.. the tank was no longer level and the gap was still there between the plywood and the steel. I guess the overdesigned steel stand was unable to deform with the shimming. So we went ahead and shimmed the gaps between the plywood and the steel to take care of the problem.
sanjay.
AuroraDave
New member
Hello Sanjay
How did you bolt the 2x4's to the beam? Did you drill a hole in the beam?
TIA
Dave
Sanjay
Premium Member
No pulling of hair... I don't have much left to pull
, but a couple of sleepless nights before resorting to shimming the plywood.I think it was a good thing that the bond between the glue that I used to hold the plywood in place while the tank was slid was not very strong and it came off the steel where there were gaps. So the shims are under the plywood and away from the tank.
I have learnt a long time ago, in this hobby even the best laid plans have issues when implemented.
sanjay.
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