500G (84X48X30)- NOW REAL !

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cward,
Looks like your luminarcs are about 8" from the bottom of the reflector to the surface of the water. Is that about right? Are you happy with that height off the water?
 
Actually from the angle of the picture the reflectors look higher up than what they are. The reflectors just barely clear the 1 1/2" 90's at the back corners of the tank that are for my closed loop. I'd guess about 3"-4" at the most.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6815146#post6815146 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bemmer
Sanjay,
Can you tell me how far off the water you plan on having your Luminarc III's? Also, do you vary the distance off the surface of the water based on the wattage of your MH bulbs? I see you will be using 400Watters.

Rebecca

Unfortunately I am going to be limited in height. I will have about 20" from the top of my tank to mount the reflectors and any associated hardware for suspending the reflectors. Given that I am going to use the Lumenarcs then i only have about 12" of headroom to play with. Assuming the light rails take up about 3" then I am down to 8-9" above the water. Which should be OK for what I want to do

sanjay.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6808133#post6808133 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Chrisrush
Wow, that picture is great. Do you have a rendition of the wet neck and wash down for the cup? I'm interested in installing one on my ASM.

Progress looks great, btw.

Chris

The wet neck is basically going to be 2 concentric cylinders. The inner riser tube is 4.5".. the outer wet neck tube will be 6"dia. The cap will allow for a clearance of about 1/8" or less for the water to flow over. I need to figure out the details on how the cap will be attached to allow for cleaning.

The washdown will just be some spray nozzles.

sanjay.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6839408#post6839408 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sanjay
where did you get those Stanley tracks ?

sanjay.

I bought them from a local store (The Andersons) that carries farm equipment. I'll get you the part numbers that I used.
 
Here's the link for the hardware.
I used the following:
4pcs 411002 (rollers)
2pcs 415540 (box track)
6pcs 415400 (box track mounting brackets)

For the box track mounting brackets I replaced the bolts with 4" lag bolts.
I also replaced the short bolts that came with the rollers with 3/8"X8" carriage bolts so I could drop the light rack down enough.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6841232#post6841232 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheCoralNabber
That is a really nice lighing rack cward! More great ideas. How much did it cost to make the entire rack would you say?

I think the sliding track and hardware was about $120, the aluminum for the rack was about $70 and the white sheet (some kind of composite material) was dead stock at our store, so I got that for $20. I also bought some stainless screws for around $5.

So the total so far is about $215, and I'm still going to add a white 10" skirt that goes around the rack so the reflectors are out of sight.
 
Things were in a lull for a while. But its picking up now.

This weekend was quite productive. Got the old stuff all removed and gutted the wall, stand and other shoddy incremental add ons that had crept up over the years.

Started putting up FRP panels on the walls.. definately do not want to deal with the water on the drywalls. We kept the old drywall and glued the FRP panels right onto it. Looks pretty nice and clean.

Will be working on installing the Air exchanger this week, and getting the stand built.

I got the 3 B-beams for the tank stand. Still decieding on wether I should go with the steel legs or concrete block. It all depends on a few decisions I need to make, depending on the sump size and how much space the pumps will take.

Any one know how much space the Sequence Dart pump would take up, along with the fittings ... union ball valve + pump+any other fittings. ? Right now I am assuming that the pump will sit perpendicular to the wall of the sump end. But I feel that this will take up too much space. Is it OK to put a 90 comming out of the sump and then hook to the pump ? I hope that is not too much restriction on the pump.

I'll post some pics tommorow.

sanjay.
 
I don't like using elbows on the input of a pump, but if you oversize the input, you should be fine. In other words, if the input is normally 1.5", use 2" pipe up to the point of the inlet.

Greg
 
I don't like using elbows on the input of a pump, but if you oversize the input, you should be fine. In other words, if the input is normally 1.5", use 2" pipe up to the point of the inlet.

Greg
 
Sanjay,
I had asked Sequence the same question in regards to the 90 degree elbow and they said that they wouldn't suggest it having an elbow within 2feet of the intake side of the pump due to caveation. Cward stated that he didn't have a problem, so it is up to you, I just didn't want to risk creating any unwanted bubbles.
Brent
 
I have a 90 coming out of my sump within about 1-1/2' of the pump intake. I can tell you that the sump level must be high enough or the suction creates a whirlpool and sucks in air. I am not sure if this is the same cavitation Sequence refers to. It runs fine as long as there is enough water to draw from. I am able to easily control the sump level, so it hasn't been a problem.

Hearing the whirlpool is a good "alarm" that there is not enough water in the sump, and may signal some underlying problem like my top-off is malfunctioning.
 
Since I do not have the pumps in hand and I need to start getting an idea on the sump dimensions. Can someone give me an idea of how much space the dart pump + ballvalve+union+other fittings are taking up.

I cannot firm up sump dimensions until I get an idea of how much space to allocate for the pumps, since it has to fit under the stand.

sanjay.
 
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