500G (84X48X30)- NOW REAL !
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Sanjay
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Not a whole lot of useful pictures at this point. Here is one of the gutted wall, and the FRP panels I am putting up on the existing walls. I just want a clean look this time. The new wall will be 18" furhter out into the room, so the new tank does not chew up too much space in the back.
sanjay.
sanjay.
alien9168
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6638170#post6638170 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Konadog
Sanjay, here is one I just had built for my 225. It's 71"L x 31"D x 40"T made with 2 x 2 steal tubing. It's going to be sprayed with truck bed liner (Line-x) then wrapped in something. I haven't made up my mind as to what yet, but it can be changed anytime I want. Inside space when done will be 67"L, 27"D, and 36"T. The cutout in the top/middle is for the drain line. The large middle opening is so I can get my sump in and out without sliding it out the end.
Nice Stand!
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Sanjay
Premium Member
While I am waiting for other things to happen and fall into place, I spent some time thinking about the plumping. Here is the first pass at what I am thinking of doing with the plumbing and water circulation and water change systems.
I am planning on using 3 Sequence Darts - 1 for main circulation, and 2 for closed loops. In addition I will be using 2 of the Vortec pumps for additional flow in the tank.
Here are the schematics of the 3 main plumbing systems:
Let me know what you think. I know I could possibly increase flow going to a 2" output and 2" plumbing out of the Dart, but then there is the additional cost of more expensive plumbing parts.
sanjay.
I am planning on using 3 Sequence Darts - 1 for main circulation, and 2 for closed loops. In addition I will be using 2 of the Vortec pumps for additional flow in the tank.
Here are the schematics of the 3 main plumbing systems:
Let me know what you think. I know I could possibly increase flow going to a 2" output and 2" plumbing out of the Dart, but then there is the additional cost of more expensive plumbing parts.
sanjay.
Ixthys
Premium Member
Hi Sanjay,
On your first picture you have a "1.5" true union ball check valve". By the picture I'm assuming you're talking about the ones they sell at HD and Lowes. I was going to use one of those, but if you try to open the check valve with your fingers, you'll notice that it is very hard to do. I opted for the "wye" check valves as they have virtually no resistance. The only caveat with these is that they must be run horizontal.
Based on your pics, are you sure you need a check valve anyway? Are you worried about a siphon? I'm not one of those nay-sayers (that likely will be posting all the "risks" you are taking with a check valve) as I use one (I do realize the risks with it!).
On your first picture you have a "1.5" true union ball check valve". By the picture I'm assuming you're talking about the ones they sell at HD and Lowes. I was going to use one of those, but if you try to open the check valve with your fingers, you'll notice that it is very hard to do. I opted for the "wye" check valves as they have virtually no resistance. The only caveat with these is that they must be run horizontal.
Based on your pics, are you sure you need a check valve anyway? Are you worried about a siphon? I'm not one of those nay-sayers (that likely will be posting all the "risks" you are taking with a check valve) as I use one (I do realize the risks with it!).
Sanjay, almost all your plumbing is 1.5" or 2", I would go with all long radius (sweeps) elbows on your plumbing to minimize head loss. McMaster Carr will have these in PVC, and there inexpensive.
Sanjay
Premium Member
I do not plan on using the ones from Lowes/HD. I was thinking of getting the Ball Check valves or the Wye Check valves. Ones that can be cleaned.
I also do not plan to rely solely on the check valves. I will drill some anti siphon holes in the water outlet. The check valve is just a back up option.... plus it does prevent more water from ending up in the sump too.
sanjay.
Ixthys
Premium Member
I completely agree. After I added another tank to the system (and didn't account for the extra volume in the sump) I flooded my garage. Check valve went on shortly after that!
I'm using the wye check valve and it has worked both times it has needed to (didn't work the one time I had it running vertically, though!).
I put ball valves on either side of it to turn off the flow for easy cleaning. If you haven't seen one, you don't necessarily have to take the whole thing out of series to clean it...the top of the wye valve unscrews and you can remove the little plunger thingy.
Sanjay,
No one responded to your question about the space requirements of the Dart pump. Although I don't have this particular Sequence pump, the motor frames are comparable. I estimate that you will need 30 inches to accommodate the pump, fittings and ventilation space.
Greg
No one responded to your question about the space requirements of the Dart pump. Although I don't have this particular Sequence pump, the motor frames are comparable. I estimate that you will need 30 inches to accommodate the pump, fittings and ventilation space.
Greg
Sanjay
Premium Member
Greg,
Thanks. Those pumps + fittings do take up a lot of space. May be I can put in a bigger intake from the sump, put in a 90 and run the pump+ fittings parallel to the sump.
How wide are these pumps ?
I am seriously rethinking the closed loops now. The cost of the pump + true union ball valves + fittings is not too far from a Tunze stream or a Vortec pump. I will get about the same amount of flow at less than 1/3 the electricity. !! with no ugly plumbing and 35 lb pumps to hide and mount.
sanjay.
jnarowe
New member
Sanjay, the Sequence Pump (MDMC Inc.) web site has all the measurements of each pump they make. It is a great source for researching specs. on a variety of pumps and very useful when comparing to other brands as well.
Seriously though, I am going all Vortech for display flow. Not just to save on electricity but to also allow me to move the pumps around as well as giving a higher level of safety. Lets say you have a pump malfunction. Would you want it to be a Hammerhead driving a 4-way to returns, or one of 4 Vortechs? What about when the power goes out? That is a real rpobelm where I live, and even if Eco-Tech doesn't produce the battery backup as is the current plan, I can always use a UPS to drive the Vortechs and maintain flow.
I use a Sequence pump for my return, and I will use one to drive my NW skimmer, but either one of those can go down temporarily and not crash the system. I realize that upfront cost is steep, but they will pay for themselves rather quickly.
Seriously though, I am going all Vortech for display flow. Not just to save on electricity but to also allow me to move the pumps around as well as giving a higher level of safety. Lets say you have a pump malfunction. Would you want it to be a Hammerhead driving a 4-way to returns, or one of 4 Vortechs? What about when the power goes out? That is a real rpobelm where I live, and even if Eco-Tech doesn't produce the battery backup as is the current plan, I can always use a UPS to drive the Vortechs and maintain flow.
I use a Sequence pump for my return, and I will use one to drive my NW skimmer, but either one of those can go down temporarily and not crash the system. I realize that upfront cost is steep, but they will pay for themselves rather quickly.
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