5074 check valve ?

Herbie

Yep,that one
Hi Roger,
I just got a new osmolator, and it doesnt seem to want to pump through the check valve in the 5074 kalk reactor. It seems to pump fine when its not inline with the check valve, but doesnt pump through the check valve. I can hear the pump load up, and it just wont pump. I even turned up the pump power inside the control box, and still n.g. It pumps fine just the pump and hose by itself.
Could I have a bad check valve ? Its hooked in up the correct direction.

Thanks,
Herbie
 
Is the check valve new? Possibilities I can think of-

1) The check valve is made specifically for this purpose, it is US made and the innards are 302 stainless (ball and spring) and a nitrile seal in a polypropylene body, it should open at .5 psi. It is possible it is defective but I don't see many issues with it. I would try blowing through it in case it is stuck.

2) The pump may not be primed and the resistance of air is too much, open the cap on the dispenser bottle and tip the pump upside down while it is running, this should get it going.

3) The pump may need to be turned up, inside the controller is a pump speed adjustment and the pump can get 7-11V, by default the factory setting is 9V.

4) If the dispenser is older, kalkwasser may have crusted up on the valve, using a syringe from an old test kit, suck some vinegar into it and let it sit for a couple hours.
 
Is the check valve new? Possibilities I can think of-

1) The check valve is made specifically for this purpose, it is US made and the innards are 302 stainless (ball and spring) and a nitrile seal in a polypropylene body, it should open at .5 psi. It is possible it is defective but I don't see many issues with it. I would try blowing through it in case it is stuck.

2) The pump may not be primed and the resistance of air is too much, open the cap on the dispenser bottle and tip the pump upside down while it is running, this should get it going.

3) The pump may need to be turned up, inside the controller is a pump speed adjustment and the pump can get 7-11V, by default the factory setting is 9V.

4) If the dispenser is older, kalkwasser may have crusted up on the valve, using a syringe from an old test kit, suck some vinegar into it and let it sit for a couple hours.
 
Thanks Roger,
The Osmolator seems to be working fine. It pumps perfect when NOT hooked up through the check valve. It is primed and works well through the 5074 when the check valve is NOT in place. The voltage in the osmo is turned all the way up. I can not blow through the check valve (easily). The pump only flows a trickle of water through the check valve, bypass the valve and its fine. It is the new style white check valve.
Now the tricky part. The 5074 is new, just been sitting in the box for a while waiting for the rest of the new tank parts for the new build to be aquired. The osmo is new also, just purchased (2 weeks ago) it from Premium Aquatics.
Since the 5074 is new, but hasnt seen the light of day for a while, is the valve still under warranty, or am I SOL ? Do you stock these check valves?

Thanks for the help Roger,
Herbie
 
No problem, it sounds like it is stuck, I will send one, just PM me your name and address.
 
Hi Roger,
Thanks for your help with my 5074 check valve that is NG. I will just have to run it without kalk until I get the check valve replaced.

Thanks for such a quick and easy fix for the problem.
Herbie
 
Just wanted to say thanks to Roger.
I received a new check valve in the mail quickly, and finally got some time to install it. Everything is working perfect now.
Thanks again for great customer service Roger !!!
Its very rare that I have ever had problems with any of the Tunze equipment I have run over the years. Its nice to know that when any problems arise, Tunze and Roger "have your back".

THANKS !
Herbie
 
Roger,

I resurrected this because I have the exact same issue with the exact same symptoms and have tried the exact same things.
 
How old is the Osmolator and 5074? Is the line looped up as shown in the manual so the check valve is on top of the reactor? Can you explain the issue you are having in more detail, is kalk running back into the bucket or is it not running?
 
How old is the Osmolator and 5074? Is the line looped up as shown in the manual so the check valve is on top of the reactor? Can you explain the issue you are having in more detail, is kalk running back into the bucket or is it not running?


The 5074 is brand new. The 3155 is about a year old. I did not put the check valve on top of the reactor because I did not have enough tubing. The reactor is in a 20g resovoir which I did mount to the side of the in the way tunze recommended. Tunze recommends the return line not go through the sump so I had to run the line to the opposite end of my sup on the far right which is nearly 5 feet away. I cut a very very short piece of tubing and used it to tie in the check valve and connect to the reactor.

Was not having it on top the reason it would not work?

I took the check valve out of the line and it worked perfectly, then of course I noticed the kalk back flowing through the pump into the resovoir. I tried to blow through the check valve and verify I had it in the right direction and I was barely able to blow through it (but I was able to). It seemed like the amount of force required to blow through it was way way more than what should be and I reasoned I had a stuck valve and that is why it did not work. I verified I had it turned in the right direction however.

Then in a panic I pulled the line and attempted to remove the check valve so I could just hook the ATO up by itself. The tubing would not release from the check valve...tried to pull it off with pliers and I broke the check valve (which I assumed was broken anyway) so its in the trash.

I have already ordered a new one through aquarium specialty which they say should ship directly from tunze (no idea if it has shipped yet but I need the replacement parts ASAP), a little aggravating having to pay $10,00 for a part I have had less than 20 minutes. Also aggravating because my tunze ato is now out of service. The longest section of tubing is still attached to the exit of the 5074 and I am afraid if I try to remove it, I will break it to.

So.....from what you are telling me here I need 1: a new check valve (already ordered) and 2) longer tubing (which I do not have). Get the longer tube and install the check valve above the reactor and it will work???

How do I get a replacement or extending tubing?

Also, how do I get the short piece off the 5074 intake pipe without snapping the attachment pipe? (I don't need the another long piece necessarily, its JUST long enough to reach from the exit of the 5074 to where I want it to return in the sump) Seems like ones you put that tubing on, its permanent

Thanks roger.
 
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I could be reading this wrong but I didn't see anything here to indicate the function of the check valve is positionally dependant
 

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Here is a shot of the installation.

Turns our I did cut a long enough length to run the intake line back through the hose clamp on top to make sure the check valve above the reactor (see picture).

As you can see, I do not have enough hose to reach the pump, if I had made it longer to reach pump....I wouldn't have enough to reach the return section of my sump.

Please advise.
 

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The 5074 came with a short piece of tubing and a zip tie, that piece runs from the bottom input to the check valve and the zip tie secures it to the output hose above the reactor. When it is not installed this way, kalk powder flows back to the valve as it takes a while to close as their is some residual pressure in the line, this then jams the valve, if the valve is above the reactor, the powder cannot reach it. They can usually be flushed out with vinegar and a syringe though.

We did ship your valve today, the tubing comes in a 3m roll (a bit over 9ft) which is what was originally with the 3155, or a 10m roll, a bit over 30ft. It is available, part 5000.390 is the shorter/stock length, 5000.380 is the longer length.

If a flexible tube is stuck, think of pulling it like those Chinese finger cuff toys, the more you pull the more it grabs, it generally works best to pry it off, I just went through the same thing changing a fuel line on my truck, I pulled as hard as I could, tried pliers, finally pushed it off with a screwdriver and it popped right off.
 
Ok thanks.

Yea I used the strand of tubing supplied for the exit line. However I didn't have any line to connect on the post valve side to the ato pump...that is what I had to cut from my existing line. Looks like what I forgot was the zip tie application. I was not using a 5g bucket and I mistakenly assumed it was a cosmetic thing in a 5gallon bucket to keep the tubing from piling up on the bottom.....I didn't realize the functionality you just mentioned (didn't seem clear in the instructions but I guess that's me?)

I will say that it didn't work from the very first time I turned on the pump to test it. I am seriously suspicious that the kalk got down and clogged the valve in the 30 or so seconds from plug in to turn on to test.... I tried to blow through it both before and after and there was no change from pre to post.

Amazon had the 5000.390 on prime 2 day delivery and I guesss having all the extra tubing might come in handy in the future for situations like this.

Uggh.... an extra $25.00. A bit more and I could have bought an avast marine stir unit. :(

Do you show an ETA on the delivery of the valve. I will be out of town from the 13th to the 18th and I'm guessing this will have to wait until the 18th for me to address. My tubing will be here Saturday so I can get the 3155 back online before I leave at least.
 
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I am not unsympathetic, I would have sent a valve if you contacted me first, if you just needed a couple feet to get from the pump to the dispenser, I could send some scrap tubing I have on hand. We use a very good check valve, it is made in the us, for the last year we also test every valve to be sure before we ship them. The valve went first class mail, I have no tracking info.
 
No worries.

If I wasn't leaving town Sunday I would have waited but since it will be 8 days from now till I return...I decided to both contact you AND order one.

It sounds like it was my fault - my responsibility.


I may reach out to you for help if I still can't get it to work on the 18th. lol
 
Got it installed...took 3 seconds with everything else set up. Before I put it in I blew through it, it was appreciably easier than the first one and I could feel the valve open and shut. Made sure the valve was above the other lines (I used the indention in the bracket, not the zip tie) and it works perfect now.

Thanks for the pointers.
 
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