moondoggy4
Team RC
I know you like your Eheim Compact but one of the nice things about DC pumps is they have a gradual turn on so they will not overwhelm your drain. I used to have a problem with my old 55 gallon tank and my Mag 7 return.
50g Cadlights Build Thread
- Thread starter rtparty
- Start date
rtparty
Raise The Reef!
It's not the drain that gets overwhelmed. I did some worse case scenarios on my tank. Power outage and complete blockage of the main drain. Power outage is zero issue but the emergency drain can't handle the flow from the return pump if the main drain gets clogged. A DC pump wouldn't change that long term
rtparty
Raise The Reef!
Tank is humming right along. The rock is probably cured but I don't have a spot for the tank yet.
Some equipment changes are in the works. My Gmann fixture has been sold and I bought another Gmann. The new fixture is the 250w SE with 4 T5s. So I will be running Radiums!!! Super stoked about it.
I sold off the MP10 to help fund the new light. 2 Tunze 6045 should be enough for now. Thinking of grabbing the Ice Cap Gyre to test out. Might let my buddy be the guinea pig there...
Next up is a new heater and finding a way to grow chaeto somewhere. My idea is to section off my return compartment with some egg crate, attach clear mesh to the egg crate and grow chaeto there. My return section won't be any smaller and it's the only spot left since my skimmer took up the other section.
I could also get a CPR HOB fuge and hang it on my sump...
Some equipment changes are in the works. My Gmann fixture has been sold and I bought another Gmann. The new fixture is the 250w SE with 4 T5s. So I will be running Radiums!!! Super stoked about it.
I sold off the MP10 to help fund the new light. 2 Tunze 6045 should be enough for now. Thinking of grabbing the Ice Cap Gyre to test out. Might let my buddy be the guinea pig there...
Next up is a new heater and finding a way to grow chaeto somewhere. My idea is to section off my return compartment with some egg crate, attach clear mesh to the egg crate and grow chaeto there. My return section won't be any smaller and it's the only spot left since my skimmer took up the other section.
I could also get a CPR HOB fuge and hang it on my sump...
rtparty
Raise The Reef!
What a couple weeks!
First, all home projects have been completed and the nursery is ready. Baby boy is due any day now!
This opened up my spot for the tank's final resting spot. I planned to move everything on Tuesday night but my moving help couldn't make it work. So Wednesday morning I got into work and started some RO water. When I'm cleaning up I realize there is water all over the floor. My heart sank as I figured the tank was leaking somewhere...
I immediately checked all pipes and seams and couldn't find a thing. Checked the sink next to my tank to see if the drain was leaking. Nothing. I then notice it's coming out of the bottom of the wall. I check the bathroom and the floor is flooded. Toilet is leaking out of the tank. Shut the water off and flush it. Grab a mop and start praying it didn't get under the stand. I tear the tank down as fast as I can and salvage maybe 35 gallons of water in some containers I had just bought Monday. If those weren't there, I would have been in trouble. Take a closer look and thankfully no water got to the stand! That could have been bad even with all the protection I put on the stand.
So now my rock is sitting in a Brute garbage can with some flow and heat. This gives me a chance to bring the tank, stand and all equipment home and wire everything up in my separate cabinet. I'll have to make another 25-30 gallons of water but that's just fine.
One major issue I've found is my drain. It is 1" piping and handles 500gph way too easily. My gate valve is very closed and I don't like it. I really don't want redo all my plumbing but it may save a flood. Anyone following think a ½ inch Herbie can handle 500gph? I can also turn the return pump down if needed on the smaller drain. Then I'll use the 1" for emergency
Thanks all for reading this!
First, all home projects have been completed and the nursery is ready. Baby boy is due any day now!
This opened up my spot for the tank's final resting spot. I planned to move everything on Tuesday night but my moving help couldn't make it work. So Wednesday morning I got into work and started some RO water. When I'm cleaning up I realize there is water all over the floor. My heart sank as I figured the tank was leaking somewhere...
I immediately checked all pipes and seams and couldn't find a thing. Checked the sink next to my tank to see if the drain was leaking. Nothing. I then notice it's coming out of the bottom of the wall. I check the bathroom and the floor is flooded. Toilet is leaking out of the tank. Shut the water off and flush it. Grab a mop and start praying it didn't get under the stand. I tear the tank down as fast as I can and salvage maybe 35 gallons of water in some containers I had just bought Monday. If those weren't there, I would have been in trouble. Take a closer look and thankfully no water got to the stand! That could have been bad even with all the protection I put on the stand.
So now my rock is sitting in a Brute garbage can with some flow and heat. This gives me a chance to bring the tank, stand and all equipment home and wire everything up in my separate cabinet. I'll have to make another 25-30 gallons of water but that's just fine.
One major issue I've found is my drain. It is 1" piping and handles 500gph way too easily. My gate valve is very closed and I don't like it. I really don't want redo all my plumbing but it may save a flood. Anyone following think a ½ inch Herbie can handle 500gph? I can also turn the return pump down if needed on the smaller drain. Then I'll use the 1" for emergency
Thanks all for reading this!
d0ughb0y
Active member
I started out using 1/2" as main, and it did not work out (flow too low). So I switched to using the 1" as main when I saw your post. Now your post got me thinking, maybe I did not do it right the first time. I'll play around with it again this weekend and see if I can make the 1/2" as main work.
congrats on the new baby.
congrats on the new baby.
d0ughb0y
Active member
I tested using 1/2" as main drain, and max flow you can get out of it is to drain right at the bulkhead, with nothing but a straight down pipe. I don't know the actual flow, but if I set my DCS4000 pump to max, it is not able to handle the flow, that is, the overflow box water level starts to rise.,
In my case, I am fine with the return pump at halfway setting, I think this is equivalent to about 60% setting, so about 630gph minus whatever head loss of the return. I think it should not be lower than 350 gph. If I use the head loss graph, flow would be about 400gph at 4 feet at 60% setting.
So I will change my configuration to use 1/2" as main drain, pipe is 4" below the 1" emergency drain pipe, and is just slightly below the overflow inner glass height (maybe 1/4" less). This handles perfectly my pump set halfway, and with both drains valve wide open. I can tune using the return pump dc controller.
Now with the 1" drain wide open, I know it can handle all the flow from the return if the 1/2" drain clogs.
The return flow rate for me is higher if I just use elbows at either side of the overflow box output instead of the loc lines. Meaning, for the same DC controller setting, I get more flow by not using the loc line. With this configuration, about 2.5 gallons of water goes back to the sump when return pump is powered down. If I increase the baffle height to 8" and run the return section water level at 3", then the return section alone can take the 2.5 gallons, keeping the skimmer side level at 8". This way, I won't need to turn off the skimmer when I turn off the return pump. The rest of the overflow box water is about 1.5 gallons and the sump can easily take that if I pull out the drain pipes for maintenance. I think this will be my final configuration.
In my case, I am fine with the return pump at halfway setting, I think this is equivalent to about 60% setting, so about 630gph minus whatever head loss of the return. I think it should not be lower than 350 gph. If I use the head loss graph, flow would be about 400gph at 4 feet at 60% setting.
So I will change my configuration to use 1/2" as main drain, pipe is 4" below the 1" emergency drain pipe, and is just slightly below the overflow inner glass height (maybe 1/4" less). This handles perfectly my pump set halfway, and with both drains valve wide open. I can tune using the return pump dc controller.
Now with the 1" drain wide open, I know it can handle all the flow from the return if the 1/2" drain clogs.
The return flow rate for me is higher if I just use elbows at either side of the overflow box output instead of the loc lines. Meaning, for the same DC controller setting, I get more flow by not using the loc line. With this configuration, about 2.5 gallons of water goes back to the sump when return pump is powered down. If I increase the baffle height to 8" and run the return section water level at 3", then the return section alone can take the 2.5 gallons, keeping the skimmer side level at 8". This way, I won't need to turn off the skimmer when I turn off the return pump. The rest of the overflow box water is about 1.5 gallons and the sump can easily take that if I pull out the drain pipes for maintenance. I think this will be my final configuration.
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rtparty
Raise The Reef!
Thanks! We are super excited as it's our first!
Thanks for testing. I am positive the ½" will handle my pump. If not, I can turn it down slightly on the pump itself. I may switch to a Current USA DC pump down the road so that will give me even more control.
My gate valve is seriously almost all the way closed on the 1". That really worries me so I'll order a ½" gate valve from BRS and add it in. It will be super easy since I used all the unions for something like this.
d0ughb0y
Active member
I removed the glass baffles on my sump today. I used 20lbs fishing line and it was quite easy to detach the glass. Like slicing butter with hot knife.
Next I will get some cut glass to create a new sump partitions. If the glasses cost to much, I may just re-use the existing glasses. I am thinking of raising the skimmer level from 6" to 8", but not sure if that is the best option. If I can just leave it at 6", I'll leave it alone. I did not remove the 2 baffles to the return section.
Next I will get some cut glass to create a new sump partitions. If the glasses cost to much, I may just re-use the existing glasses. I am thinking of raising the skimmer level from 6" to 8", but not sure if that is the best option. If I can just leave it at 6", I'll leave it alone. I did not remove the 2 baffles to the return section.
janci
New member
Congratulations!
Busy times will come and tank built might get delayed.
But enjoy the family!
rtparty
Raise The Reef!
Thank you! He's been absolutely amazing so far. Lots of sleepless nights but worth it
rtparty
Raise The Reef!
Well, life has been busy with the little one so the tank is just doing its thing right now.
The diatom stage finally kicked off and I'll be adding a clean up crew this week. Just a few snails to start.
I also changed up my T5s to 2 Blue Plus and 2 ATI Actinic bulbs. Mixed with the Radium, it is perfection.
I'm bad at pictures and need to be better. Once there is something worth filming, I'll snap some more pics.
The diatom stage finally kicked off and I'll be adding a clean up crew this week. Just a few snails to start.
I also changed up my T5s to 2 Blue Plus and 2 ATI Actinic bulbs. Mixed with the Radium, it is perfection.
I'm bad at pictures and need to be better. Once there is something worth filming, I'll snap some more pics.
rtparty
Raise The Reef!
5 Astraea snails and 5 Cerith snails were added last night to start cleaning things up. They were all still going this morning although one astraea hasn't really moved so it may not make it. Thankfully my LFS sells them for $0.50 each.
On another note, I think it's time to sell the Reef Dynamics skimmer. It's a fantastic skimmer but takes up too much room in my small sump. I'd really like to get a space saving, DC pump skimmer. That way I can move the chaeto out of my return section and into the main compartment where it will receive better flow.
Next big purchase is an ATO setup. I'm really liking the AquaMedic Pro ATO. Unless I can find a deal on a Tunze, I'll go that route.
Hopefully I can grab some pictures this weekend since this thread is pointless without them!
On another note, I think it's time to sell the Reef Dynamics skimmer. It's a fantastic skimmer but takes up too much room in my small sump. I'd really like to get a space saving, DC pump skimmer. That way I can move the chaeto out of my return section and into the main compartment where it will receive better flow.
Next big purchase is an ATO setup. I'm really liking the AquaMedic Pro ATO. Unless I can find a deal on a Tunze, I'll go that route.
Hopefully I can grab some pictures this weekend since this thread is pointless without them!
d0ughb0y
Active member
The mdf stand I got is beyond repair so I will have to build one and want to build one like yours. Is that all just 3/4 birch plywood with no 2x4 or 1x4s?
how was the square hole with rounded corners cut? drill 4 corner holes and cut the rest with jigsaw?
can you please take pictures of the inside top? I want to see how the sides and top are connected.
how were the edges of the plywood finished?
thanks.
how was the square hole with rounded corners cut? drill 4 corner holes and cut the rest with jigsaw?
can you please take pictures of the inside top? I want to see how the sides and top are connected.
how were the edges of the plywood finished?
thanks.
rtparty
Raise The Reef!
Correct. It is all 3/4" plywood with no 1x4s or 2x4s. It was dadoed (spelling?), glued and screwed together. The front support beam is 2 pieces of plywood glued be and screwed.
The top and back holes were just like you said. 4 corners cut with a hole saw, jigsaw and then sanded.l
The top piece sits "in"the sides. We cut down the 3/4" and then 1/2" into the sides. Really wish I had more pictures and could explain it better. My father-in-law did most of the work while I wasn't there. I was there to screw and glue it together though so I saw the "puzzle" all apart.
We used the liquid wood putty stuff to finish off all the edges and smooth them out. Then there is like 3 coats of primer, 3 coats of paint and 3 coats of polyurethane all sprayed on. I'll try to grab pics in the morning
moondoggy4
Team RC
Do you have the Radium 150 20k bulb? they seem hard to find. I have Phoenix 14k I am not to fond of them. I have the same light as you.
