50g Cadlights Build Thread

This looks quite a bit like my next tank build, subscribing! Looks great and congrats on the little one!

One thing I'll add, if you've already got the apex, adding a breakout box and a few float switches should give you security for tank overflowing. Also, if you have a breakout box, a couple float switches and a small pump, you can make your own apex controlled ATO instead of shelling out money for one.
 
Correct. It is all 3/4" plywood with no 1x4s or 2x4s. It was dadoed (spelling?), glued and screwed together. The front support beam is 2 pieces of plywood glued be and screwed.

The top and back holes were just like you said. 4 corners cut with a hole saw, jigsaw and then sanded.l

The top piece sits "in"the sides. We cut down the 3/4" and then 1/2" into the sides. Really wish I had more pictures and could explain it better. My father-in-law did most of the work while I wasn't there. I was there to screw and glue it together though so I saw the "puzzle" all apart.

We used the liquid wood putty stuff to finish off all the edges and smooth them out. Then there is like 3 coats of primer, 3 coats of paint and 3 coats of polyurethane all sprayed on. I'll try to grab pics in the morning



Thanks.
I'm getting a better idea how to put this together.

By front support beam you mean the bar across the front top? So you doubled up the plywood ? How many inches wide is it? Is the piece across the bottom the same?

Is the top a single 3/4" plywood or did you double it?

So the side panel top is notched 1/2" in (I think 3/4" plywood is actually .7") and deep enough to make the top panel flush? Same with the back panel or is the top piece sitting completely on top of the back panel? From the picture, I can see the top front comes all the way out and sits on top of the top beam. Also, in the picture, I only see screws across the top and bottom of the side panel. How is the back panel attached?

I see in your pictures screws on the bottom edge of the side panel. Is this screwed to a bottom plywood that sits on the floor? And I don't see any screw that holds the platform for the sump. How is it mounted? It has to be able to hold the weight of the sump.
The bottom section is the part that I have no idea yet how to do.

You used the same liquid wood putty used to finish the edges to cover the counter sunk screw heads?

I figured one 4'x8' sheet of plywood is enough to complete the stand right?

Thanks
 
Thanks.
I'm getting a better idea how to put this together.

By front support beam you mean the bar across the front top?

So you doubled up the plywood ? How many inches wide is it? Is the piece across the bottom the same?

Is the top a single 3/4" plywood or did you double it?

So the side panel top is notched 1/2" in (I think 3/4" plywood is actually .7") and deep enough to make the top panel flush? Same with the back panel or is the top piece sitting completely on top of the back panel? From the picture, I can see the top front comes all the way out and sits on top of the top beam

I see in your pictures screws on the bottom edge of the side panel. Is this screwed to a bottom plywood that sits on the floor? And I don't see any screw that holds the platform for the sump. How is it mounted? It has to be able to hold the weight of the sump.
The bottom section is the part that I have no idea yet how to do.

You used the same liquid wood putty used to finish the edges to cover the counter sunk screw heads?

I figured one 4'x8' sheet of plywood is enough to complete the stand right?

Thanks

One sheet of plywood worked perfectly. Except the door was an additional piece since the original door warped on us.

Let me get some measurements on everything.
 
Door 24x31
Sides 34x24
Back 34x22.5ish
Kick plate 5x22.5
Top Cross beam 4x22.5ish

The top and bottom pieces are inside the sides and back if that makes sense.

So on the side pieces you'll cut notches (not the technical term but what I'm going to use from now on) at the top, bottom and then about 5 inches from the bottom so you can slide the sump shelf in. You'll also have notches at the front so the beam can be installed.

The back has notches on top, bottom and 5 inches up for sump shelf.

The top and bottom notches are where the top and bottom pieces of the stand will squeeze in. It's like a big puzzle.

I'm going to a rough sketch on paper for you. It may be the worst drawing you've ever seen but hopefully gives a better idea. This stand has been amazing so far.
 
Alright, bear with me here. This was thrown together in 2 seconds. Not to scale and not perfect but should give you the idea of what's needed.

The squiqqle lines are the notches. That is where another piece of the puzzle inserts. You'll need a hole in the top piece as well but I forgot to draw it in.

***The 22.5" for the beams is also a guess*** make sure you get your actual measurements.
b950ec45ff346740b269b560a3d1c9b5.jpg
 
New skimmer on the way. The Reef Dynamics just takes up too much space in my small sump. Real estate is a premium with a small sump so I needed a space saving design. Hello Skimz SN123! It should be here this week.

Time to sell the RD skimmer. It's an amazing skimmer though.
 
I think those pipeless skimmers are the way to go if you need a small footprint.

thanks for the detailed info on the stand!
I went to harbor freight to check out some of the tools I will need. My current table saw cannot take a dado blade, so I have to shop for a router (which costs the same as a dado blade anyway). Thinking of getting this router, I will probably only need to use the tool for this project.

Is the padding you used between the tank and the stand from harbor freight? I saw the foam mats there and thought they looked similar.

I might do the stand without the elevated shelf for the sump. I'm not sure that I can do the dado cut accurately. I might just add a removable shelf for holding controller, dosing pump, etc. so I don't have to nail them to the sides. I think the top and bottom shelf holding the 3 sides is sturdy enough. I have 0 woodworking experience, so did some reading and convinced the rabbet (the term for the cut at top, bottom and rear edge of shelf) is best way to join plywood at 90 degrees. Plus I think glueing the wood will seal it from leaking any water to the floor (except through the front).
what glue did you use? tightbond III? how about the wood putty? there are so many to choose from.
 
I think those pipeless skimmers are the way to go if you need a small footprint.

thanks for the detailed info on the stand!
I went to harbor freight to check out some of the tools I will need. My current table saw cannot take a dado blade, so I have to shop for a router (which costs the same as a dado blade anyway). Thinking of getting this router, I will probably only need to use the tool for this project.

Is the padding you used between the tank and the stand from harbor freight? I saw the foam mats there and thought they looked similar.

I might do the stand without the elevated shelf for the sump. I'm not sure that I can do the dado cut accurately. I might just add a removable shelf for holding controller, dosing pump, etc. so I don't have to nail them to the sides. I think the top and bottom shelf holding the 3 sides is sturdy enough. I have 0 woodworking experience, so did some reading and convinced the rabbet (the term for the cut at top, bottom and rear edge of shelf) is best way to join plywood at 90 degrees. Plus I think glueing the wood will seal it from leaking any water to the floor (except through the front).
what glue did you use? tightbond III? how about the wood putty? there are so many to choose from.

It was just Elmer's wood glue I believe. I'm not sure on the wood putty. It was called liquid wood I think. Natural color. Pretty easy to use.

The glue won't really make the stand hold water. I caulked all the seams with a white caulk for this reason.

I believe my father in law used a router and not the blade. The blade didn't cut a smooth cut.

Just make sure to have long enough clamps for when you glue it. Squaring it all up was the toughest part
 
I found this from an old post here on RC. Its for same 2'x2' 50 gallon tank stand. I wasn't sure how wide the rabbet needs to be. do you remember if you cut yours 1/4" width? depth of course is enough to make the perpendicular piece flush.

55864Rabbet__Small_.jpg
 
New skimmer is here and breaking in:

c1ab3a23a499042c8be9e784b0c0b8b4.jpg


Pump is noisier than I expected but it needs a couple days to quiet down. If it doesn't, I will take it out and make sure everything looks okay. The couple videos I watched about this skimmer, you couldn't hear the pump like this. Not a big deal so far.

You might be wondering what the egg crate contraption is. It's my quick fix for chaeto until I figure something else out. I will either go with a chaeto reactor (I have a phosban reactor I could use) or an in tank style refugium. My best tanks have had a refugium of sorts. This way I have a place to grow pods totally uninterrupted, nutrient reduction and a reverse daylight photoperiod.

My fuge light was about $15 (light and cord) and worth every penny. The bulb is made by Sandalwood on Amazon. It was on sale for $9. The cord was like $6 if I remember. The chaeto has easily doubled in size in 2 weeks.

So far so good. I hope to add a fish or some coral pretty soon. Want to let the skimmer break in and get going, test my water and then do a water change.

Thanks all!
 
what is the skimmer in the second picture of this thread? was it a skimz?

I am still deciding which skimmer to get. definitely need a small footprint one.

I was seriously considering the eshopps s-120 until I read about the issues with sicce pumps. I know there are several other pipeless skimmer choices, but ones using DC pump, the only choices left I think are skimz 123 and coral box 300.
 
what is the skimmer in the second picture of this thread? was it a skimz?

I am still deciding which skimmer to get. definitely need a small footprint one.

I was seriously considering the eshopps s-120 until I read about the issues with sicce pumps. I know there are several other pipeless skimmer choices, but ones using DC pump, the only choices left I think are skimz 123 and coral box 300.
Cadlights pls 100. It has been running on the tank when I took the Reef Dynamics skimmer offline. It did die just barely but the Skimz showed up in time.

I like the Skimz so far except the collection cup. It is almost impossible to get back on. I'll need to figure that out quick. It started pulling stuff after 3 hours in the tank.

There was a Skimz 143 in the sell forum for a steal. I would have grabbed that if I didn't buy the 123
 
How deep of water is the sn123 sitting in? I have one too and their is some noise, but once I close the cabinet door, you can't hear it
 
How deep of water is the sn123 sitting in? I have one too and their is some noise, but once I close the cabinet door, you can't hear it
I think 8" or so. Getting a lot of micro bubbles still. I'm also not getting a dry foam yet. It has pulled a decent amount, especially for a tank with no livestock.

Is your collection cup a total PITA to put back on? I literally couldn't get it back on without taking the skimmer out and putting considerable force on it. I bet I break something sooner rather than later. What a terrible design that is
 
I can get it back on pretty easily, you just need to wet the white ring where is sits on top of the skimmer and it slides on snug.
 
I also have a a cadlights 50, however if I had to do it again I'd just get the tank itself and tell them to keep the garbage that is the stand/sump/return pump and the POS skimmer that came with it. Love the tank itself though!
 
I also have a a cadlights 50, however if I had to do it again I'd just get the tank itself and tell them to keep the garbage that is the stand/sump/return pump and the POS skimmer that came with it. Love the tank itself though!
The tank seems well made, the stand was a pile of junk and thankfully I didn't pay for it. The sump is just a glass box. Nothing special and it works so far. A custom acrylic sump from Elite Aquatics would sure be nice but not in the cards right now.

I actually enjoyed the Cadlights skimmer once it was set. It's not anything special but it was pulling out some nice think gunk before the pump quit. The Skimz 123 is doing well but still spitting a ton of micro bubbles.
 
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