57G Illuminata Build

[Phuster]

I have the exact setup. Went from 20 gallon tank to illuminata. Left the 20 gallon to become frag tank. Running 2 mp10esw. Swc 160 in custom made 37 gallon tank that fits perfectly in the tek stand that matches the tank. I was running mag 7 return pump with tee off to refugium but that was too weak so I upgraded to Eheim 1262 recently and I couldn't be happier. You will love the tank

 

[yellowRubi]

I have the exact setup. Went from 20 gallon tank to illuminata. Left the 20 gallon to become frag tank. Running 2 mp10esw. Swc 160 in custom made 37 gallon tank that fits perfectly in the tek stand that matches the tank. I was running mag 7 return pump with tee off to refugium but that was too weak so I upgraded to Eheim 1262 recently and I couldn't be happier. You will love the tank

post some pics of ur setup

 

[smellslikeTUNA]

post some pics of ur setup

I think we should start an Illuminata thread on here !

 

[Phuster]

post some pics of ur setup

Sorry about the terrible iphone pics but this is what I have

 

[ampemployee1]

Phuster,

Nice pix, thanks for sharing. Several questions:

Question about your overflow. Looks like it feeds a filter sock via flexible tubing. If you were to do it again, would you plumb it any differently using Sched 40 pvc?

What's your bulb config in your ATI T5?

How do you control the flow to the fuge? ball valve?

Thanks, Amp

 

[ampemployee1]

Phuster, you made me start thinking more about the config of the sump/fuge. Below is the manufacturer's recommended config for the fuge. Looks like you purchased a clip on light from Lowes or Home Depot. What type of bulb do you have on it, and do you run it on opposite light cycle to the main tank lights?

 

[Phuster]

Phuster,

Nice pix, thanks for sharing. Several questions:

Question about your overflow. Looks like it feeds a filter sock via flexible tubing. If you were to do it again, would you plumb it any differently using Sched 40 pvc?

What's your bulb config in your ATI T5?

How do you control the flow to the fuge? ball valve?

Thanks, Amp

I prefer flexible tubing because I did not want to cut and mess around with PVC. It is also easy to take in and out the filter sock. As you can see there is not much room in the sump/fuge and every space has to be used efficiently. I am running 6x39W ATI running from front to back Blue Plus, Purple plus, Blue plus, GE6500K, Blue Plus, Blue Plus this is what people usually run...If you want more blue swap out GE 6500K for Aquablue Special. I control the flow to the fuge with a ball valve as you can see connected to my T from the Eheim 1262 back to display. I chose not to use the fuge/sump recommended because I hate the design. There is no room for the protein skimmer from the overflow and putting a protein skimmer at the end with return pump will defeat the purpose of the fuge because the pods will go through there and get munched up. It makes more sense to me to have protein skimmer first.....after that you can either go fuge compartment then return compartment...I chose to go return in the middle so I can concentrate light on the fuge and also to be able to control flow through the fuge with the ball valve coming from the 1262. Hope this helps!!

 

[ampemployee1]

Phuster, thanks, that does help. I was struggling with the VERY small footprint area in the third compartment for a skimmer and return pump as well. I'll have to model it both ways to see what works best.

Got my MP10es today. May have to sell this and get an MP40 given the feedback I've received...

 

[Phuster]

I run 2 mp10w es and it is more than enough. I also get the benefit of controlling the variable flow better with 2 units instead of sticking with 1 unit.

 

[yellowRubi]

I think that 2 mp10s would be much better than one mp40 but 2 mp10's are 100$ more than
the mp40...

 

[ampemployee1]

@yellowrubi, I saw that someone was listing most of the components for a 57g rimless build, including a MP40. I'm going to see if I can get a deal. Thanks

 

[ampemployee1]

Controllers? Testing?

Controllers? Testing?

Temperature probe and controller recommendations? I see many posts where people are using controllers to manage their light cycles, ATO, Temp, PH, ORP, etc. What have fellow reefers deployed on your systems?

On my current "low tech" system, I have a fuge, DSB, and manually top off water. I haven't tested PH in 3 years, but Ca is 410, Nitrates <10ppm, and dKH is 10.2. Everything in my existing reef is healthy, and my zoa colonies are growing, so I haven't really felt the need to do a ton of testing...I do like the idea of automation and measurement, however. Its a cost benefit/effort thing. Would appreciate your perspectives.

So I can make some decisions about the 57G rimless build

 

[yellowRubi]

i ordered a Apex, the only problem is that it is on backorder....

 

[ampemployee1]

Peter,

What modules on the Apex do you plan to use, and what retailer did you purchase thru?

 

[A_Z]

is your light a 4 or 6 bulb fixture?

 

[ampemployee1]

@A_Z, 4 bulb T5 HO fixture. No plans to keep SPS, so I think I should be fine, softies, zoas, rics.

After seeing the threads on wrasses, I'll probably start a community of wrasses as well. Crazy the way some of them flash. i'll stick with the stock bulbs for 6 months and upgrade to the ATI bulbs thereafter.

I'm also keeping my eyes on the Kessil A150W LED's.

 

[yellowRubi]

i bought it from Tbaquatics as they give u a free PH probe and thats like a $50 right there, and they have 5% off for first customers also

 

[ampemployee1]

Peter, Thanks. What's the link for your 57G build thread?

 

[yellowRubi]

Peter, Thanks. What's the link for your 57G build thread?

theres none yet... i will try to work on it over the weekend :hammer:

 

[ampemployee1]

Peter, please send me your build thread when you get it going. You're about 1 month ahead of me on your build. Thanks! Ed