6101 dead

[Navyblue]

I gave my 6101 a vinegar bath, it's pretty clean inside out.

When the controller is unplugged, it would run like 2 seconds, stop for half a minute or so, and the cycle repeats

When it is plugged to the 7095 controller, in pulse mode, it behaves more or less the same, except that the running time can be made to last a few seconds longer, and it's not moving most of the time.

Btw I also have a 6065 which is rated as about half as strong as the 6101. When the 6101 is running, it didn't feel any stronger than the 6065. When on full blast it didn't move my sand at all across the length of the 4' tank.

The LED on the power supply are lit at all times. I don't have other pump or power supply to swap around.

So, is it dead? Something need replacing?

Thanks.

 

[rvitko]

If the power supply has a 15V jumper the flow would be about the same as a 6065 so that may be the cause of that. If the upper bearing was stuck to the drive unit by calcium that could cause both symptoms. The pump may also be failing, but I would check the upper bearing first, see the top thread on cleaning.

 

[Navyblue]

The upper bearing is moving freely. So the pump is failing?

 

[rvitko]

Yes, most likely some electrical connection inside was not 100% and has finally started to fail. Send it in and we will take care of it.

Tunze USA
305 Victor St
Austin, TX 78753

 

[Navyblue]

I am in Singapore, can it be repaired here? But I kind of doubt it.

I have an 6060. If I put the impeller from the 6101 in the 6060, does it get "upgraded" to 6061? I think I read it somewhere along this line but cant recall the models in specific. Btw the impeller of the 6060 is a bit ragged looking.

 

[rvitko]

6060 has a smaller propeller and the 6100.700 drive unit will not work properly in a 6060 because the drive unit has no break shoes. I think for Singapore there is no repair center the fastest would be to send it to the factory in Germany or contact the distributor in Australia who does repairs. You might also ask your dealer.

 

[Navyblue]

Alternatively, is it possible for me to order a new motorblock?

 

[rvitko]

If you order a 6101 motor block they will probably send a 6105 complete motor because 6101 is no longer made.

 

[Navyblue]

Since the parts of 6105 are not compatible with 6101, my only option is to send the 6101 in or get a new 6105?

 

[rvitko]

You can order 6101.015 on tunze.com, if they have it they will send it but I am fairly certain they don't. So, for the same price they will send a 6105 retrofit kit that will replace the 6101 parts that cannot be used.

 

[Navyblue]

On tunze.com I could not find the part number 6101.015. Though I could find the 6100.015 that cost more than the 6105.100.

 

[rvitko]

6100.015 would be a full 6105 retrofit including transformer, it is more expensive. It might be worth emailing the factory or calling the distributor first.

 

[Navyblue]

Some further observation.

For about more than a year the 6101 is used in pretty low intensity (not exceeding 40%), could it be the reason?

I find that with the 24V jumper, I could set it at 30% and it would pretty much run indefinitely. When set at 100% it would run only for 3 seconds or so and then it would stop. If I turn down the white knob to minimum I could run pretty much indefinitely on any settings on the controller. Or similarly I could use the 15V jumper and set it to any settings on the white knob and the controller.

But still, when it runs the 6060 at half the rating seems to be stronger than the 6101 on full blast.

The pump is also pretty warm, I suspect it gets warm only when not moving (tries to move but can't).

Do you still think it is the motor block? Or could it be the driver? Would the driver be damaged when coming into contact with strong magnet? I have the algae free magnet holder and during cleaning I might have left them stuck together for a day or two.

 

[rvitko]

On the 6101 the driver is inside the motor block, what you describe is a driver problem but the motor block has to be replaced to fix the problem. The power supply would not cause this.

 

[Navyblue]

What I meant was the 6100.700, the magnet thing that is attached to the propeller, it was stuck with the magnet holder during cleaning. I don't remember how long were they sticker together, may be they didn't, but they could be stucked together for up to 2 days. I wonder if the polarity thing is messed up?

Anyway, for the power supply, I think it was fried, I heard a pop sound and the LED stop lighting up, and it's not the fuse.

 

[rvitko]

I don't think it could be enough of a problem to ruin the pump, the magnets come to us in a foam box with each one pushed in a hole but they are so close that if the polarity was was easily reversed or changed by another magnet this would be a big problem so I would imagine it is not.

 

[Navyblue]

I guess the logical option now for me is to get a new one.

Thanks for your time Roger.

 

[chercm]

I guess the logical option now for me is to get a new one.

Thanks for your time Roger.

if u need to send in , u can contact Reefdepot in Singapore

 

[Navyblue]

if u need to send in , u can contact Reefdepot in Singapore

Thanks.

Have you done this before? What's the turn around and cost like?