730g In-Wall Display
- Thread starter tgreene
- Start date
tgreene
Reefer
Still no water in the tank, but I'm literally only a few days out at this point...
We have completed the electrical sub-panel and all outlets & switches, the outside walls are complete and I primed and painted them today with 1 coat of KILZ2 primer/sealer and 2 coats of top coat.
The remaining few small pieces of FRP are being installed at this very moment, and the inside room light will be hooked up this evening once the FRP is finished.
Tomorrow I should be able to do a thorough scub down of the interior of the fish room and inside of the tank with denatured alcohol in preparation to begin plumbing the system on Wednesday.
The top 6 grey breakers are the stupidly expensive Arc-Faults. Every circuit inside the fish room is however on an individual Arc-Fault for safety reasons.
We have completed the electrical sub-panel and all outlets & switches, the outside walls are complete and I primed and painted them today with 1 coat of KILZ2 primer/sealer and 2 coats of top coat.
The remaining few small pieces of FRP are being installed at this very moment, and the inside room light will be hooked up this evening once the FRP is finished.
Tomorrow I should be able to do a thorough scub down of the interior of the fish room and inside of the tank with denatured alcohol in preparation to begin plumbing the system on Wednesday.
The top 6 grey breakers are the stupidly expensive Arc-Faults. Every circuit inside the fish room is however on an individual Arc-Fault for safety reasons.
melanotaenia
New member
Can you still fit a car in there?
Project looks great!!!
Project looks great!!!
tgreene
Reefer
I built a 96x24x31 300g that has (6) 250's over it. The difference is that these lights are also about 14" above the water rather than just a few inches above, so I wanted the wattage for better light penetration.
My plan is to begin the day with the (4) lights in the back, have the controller fire up all (9) for a couple of mhours during the day for peak lighting, then drop the back (4) and only run the front (5) until evening when they too drop out and the (6) 39w Actinic T5's kick in for dusk/night lighting.
-Tim
My plan is to begin the day with the (4) lights in the back, have the controller fire up all (9) for a couple of mhours during the day for peak lighting, then drop the back (4) and only run the front (5) until evening when they too drop out and the (6) 39w Actinic T5's kick in for dusk/night lighting.
-Tim
tgreene
Reefer
Thanks Chris, for both the compliments and the diagram.
I installed the ventilation system yesterday and last evening, and just fired it up a few minutes ago... WoW is all I can say! I used a 11,000btu portable AC unit, then using a stone core bit a friend (my granite guy) drilled through the brick wall in the cove in my entry way by the front door, and all the way into the fish room. I then used a standard dryer vent which I modified to be able to sleeve onto a 3" PVC pipe that ran through the wall. I shot a lot of Stuff inside the wall and around the brick inside the wall to secure the PVC pipe into place, then on the inside of the fish room (after the Stuff cured and was trimmed) fitted a 3" to 4" PVC reducer and connected the exhaust hose to it. So nobody freaks out about using a standard white plastic dryer vent on brick, I sprayed it with fleck paint to match the brick as closely as possible, then siliconed the edges with morter colored sealant and even sprinkled some of the powdered brick dust into it to blend it all together really well.
I was just going to vent directly to the garage, but external is what I originally had planned to do (though not like this). It worked out perfectly!
Currently the drain line is a garden hose which runs under the door and out the garage, but it will be tied into a permanetely mounted drain line which will be a PVC line which is cored through the brick at the front of the house next to the garage door, then tied into external drainage pipe. This line will only be for the AC and RO/DI waste water lines.
Also, the reason for using a portable room AC unit is because the salt will destroy it in rather short order if it'd not regularily removed and cleaned, and removal is very simple since the hose is just press fitted into place. It also has a 5 year warranty, so when it does die (and is replaced free of charge) I won't have any sizing issues to contend with that an in-wall unit would have.
-Tim
I installed the ventilation system yesterday and last evening, and just fired it up a few minutes ago... WoW is all I can say! I used a 11,000btu portable AC unit, then using a stone core bit a friend (my granite guy) drilled through the brick wall in the cove in my entry way by the front door, and all the way into the fish room. I then used a standard dryer vent which I modified to be able to sleeve onto a 3" PVC pipe that ran through the wall. I shot a lot of Stuff inside the wall and around the brick inside the wall to secure the PVC pipe into place, then on the inside of the fish room (after the Stuff cured and was trimmed) fitted a 3" to 4" PVC reducer and connected the exhaust hose to it. So nobody freaks out about using a standard white plastic dryer vent on brick, I sprayed it with fleck paint to match the brick as closely as possible, then siliconed the edges with morter colored sealant and even sprinkled some of the powdered brick dust into it to blend it all together really well.
I was just going to vent directly to the garage, but external is what I originally had planned to do (though not like this). It worked out perfectly!
Currently the drain line is a garden hose which runs under the door and out the garage, but it will be tied into a permanetely mounted drain line which will be a PVC line which is cored through the brick at the front of the house next to the garage door, then tied into external drainage pipe. This line will only be for the AC and RO/DI waste water lines.
Also, the reason for using a portable room AC unit is because the salt will destroy it in rather short order if it'd not regularily removed and cleaned, and removal is very simple since the hose is just press fitted into place. It also has a 5 year warranty, so when it does die (and is replaced free of charge) I won't have any sizing issues to contend with that an in-wall unit would have.
-Tim
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tgreene
Reefer
Yep!
tgreene
Reefer
Yep, a great plan if you have the real estate for the plumbing. No more digging to clean out the CL strainers, just blow them out with the pumps that are already there
I like.
I like the way you think Chris!
NaClH20NMYVEIN
Red Dragons!
It sure has been a pleasure watching this unfold! Great job :thumbsup:
tgreene
Reefer
That's a huge compliment considering YOUR fantastic build! :dance:
I think that those of us with truly monster builds have a common bond in that nothing seems to go as planned, yet we just continue to roll with the punches and moving forward. I had actually figured it would take 2 days to do the plumbing, based upon past builds, but never in my wildest dreams would I have imagined it would be more like 2 days per element of the system... and there are several different elements to have to contend with. Then it's been move this and re-work that, or stop the plumbing and focus on something else that needs done first since it's now going to be in the same space or whatever.
Oh, and I'm tired and sore... VERY TIRED AND VERY SORE!
-Tim
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NaClH20NMYVEIN
Red Dragons!
Sounds about right! 
