iwishtofish
Active member
You know, someone else suggested that to me as well. It's a pretty clever idea. Think I might work off of that.
Just do a small nano, KISS version!
75 Gallons of Persistence
- Thread starter iwishtofish
- Start date
You know, someone else suggested that to me as well. It's a pretty clever idea. Think I might work off of that.
Just do a small nano, KISS version!
shaggss
Active member
Hi IWTF
This is how I do my water changes. I have a separate pump for the chiller/reactor.
1. System is approx 200L (50G) so I change 25L/WC
2. Turn off return pump
3. Using the reactor pump, pump out 20L (this allows 5L buffer) from sump
4. Add 25L FSW back to sump
5. Wether it be summer or winter I leave the return pump off until the chiller/heaters have the sump at the same temp as the DT.
6. Turn on return pump and let it run for a few minutes
7. Remove excess water from the sump to bring it to the normal level. (remember I took out 20L but added back 25L so there is an excess). I do this so I always have a buffer and never short change myself.
The good things about doing it this way is:
1. You don't disturb the main DT
2. The water has time to circulate in the sump and bring it to the same temp and salinity as the DT
3. No guess work required on how much you took out as you will always has excess.
HTH!
Don't worry too much, lots are, they just never post! I keep my thread going more for a journal for myself more than anything else. You have helped a lot of people with your thread, keep it going!
cheers :beer:
This is how I do my water changes. I have a separate pump for the chiller/reactor.
1. System is approx 200L (50G) so I change 25L/WC
2. Turn off return pump
3. Using the reactor pump, pump out 20L (this allows 5L buffer) from sump
4. Add 25L FSW back to sump
5. Wether it be summer or winter I leave the return pump off until the chiller/heaters have the sump at the same temp as the DT.
6. Turn on return pump and let it run for a few minutes
7. Remove excess water from the sump to bring it to the normal level. (remember I took out 20L but added back 25L so there is an excess). I do this so I always have a buffer and never short change myself.
The good things about doing it this way is:
1. You don't disturb the main DT
2. The water has time to circulate in the sump and bring it to the same temp and salinity as the DT
3. No guess work required on how much you took out as you will always has excess.
HTH!
Don't worry too much, lots are, they just never post! I keep my thread going more for a journal for myself more than anything else. You have helped a lot of people with your thread, keep it going!
cheers :beer:
iwishtofish
Active member
shaggss, I like that method. I think that I, too, will just draw from the sump. Perhaps I'll take water from just the return and skimmer sections, and leave the refugium alone. Then, when I add new water back, I'll turn the return pump on/off a few times to slow down the introduction of (and better mix) the new water to the refugium and DT.
Do you see any problems with that idea?
Thank you for the kind comment regarding my thread.
Do you see any problems with that idea?
Thank you for the kind comment regarding my thread.
iwishtofish
Active member
Today I got home after being away for about 5-1/2 hours. Apparently the ATO float either stuck a little, or just tripped a little late, because there water level was about 1-1/4" below the designated fill line. Apparently the safety timer ran out on the ATO, and it went into suspension and required a manual reset. Took about 8 resets to replenish all the evaporated water and get the ATO controller back on track.
I imagine that to counter this problem, I will either need to replace the Aqua Lifter with a faster pump, put the ATO on a timer to periodically reset it (by shutting it off and on again), or both.
Can anyone recommend a reliable pump to put in my ATO reservoir? It needs to be perhaps 4 or 5 times faster than the Aqua Lifter. It's a fine line, because I don't want a pump that will flood my sump if the float switch fails. I suppose a failsafe against this would be one that others have recommended: move the 2nd float switch out of the ATO reservoir and place it upside down at a max level in the sump.
I imagine that to counter this problem, I will either need to replace the Aqua Lifter with a faster pump, put the ATO on a timer to periodically reset it (by shutting it off and on again), or both.
Can anyone recommend a reliable pump to put in my ATO reservoir? It needs to be perhaps 4 or 5 times faster than the Aqua Lifter. It's a fine line, because I don't want a pump that will flood my sump if the float switch fails. I suppose a failsafe against this would be one that others have recommended: move the 2nd float switch out of the ATO reservoir and place it upside down at a max level in the sump.
iwishtofish
Active member
Think I maybe spoke a little soon, regarding the problem with the ATO. It stalled again, and I'm suspecting it might be an issue with the float switch in the reservoir. I have removed that to see what happens.
rxcomm
New member
It must be a problem with your float switch. I have a system with essentially the same water volume as you, and have it set up with sensor 1 regulating the water level and sensor 2 upside down in the sump as a failsafe. I use the JBJ ATO and an aqualifter pump.
The aqualifter only runs for 15 - 20 seconds each time it turns on. The water level in the return section of the sump only fluctuates about 1mm from turn on to turn off of the aqualifter. My return area is about 16 in x 10 in. Total topoff volume is about 1.25 gallons per day.
Dave
The aqualifter only runs for 15 - 20 seconds each time it turns on. The water level in the return section of the sump only fluctuates about 1mm from turn on to turn off of the aqualifter. My return area is about 16 in x 10 in. Total topoff volume is about 1.25 gallons per day.
Dave
iwishtofish
Active member
Dave, I think you are right. I unplugged the float switch that's in the freshwater reservoir, and no more problems (yet
).
D5HP
New member
I hope you don't mind me asking this in your thread, but I figured if it's useful information I wouldn't want it buried in our PM inboxes.
I have also gone with the MB7 seed method for my 75g tank, as you did yours. I noticed that you said you wish you had added WAY more shrimp/dead stuff in general. So since I am not in a huge rush for this tank to cycle I thought I'd go ahead and try and feed about 1/2 of what I anticipate feeding on a daily basis once the tank is stocked for the first five days. Essentially this was one cube of frozen mysis per day and some other random flake foods I just tossed in.
I was also dosing about 3-4 capfuls...depending on how late it was
I saw a mini-spike in ammonia on day three to 0.25ppm but that was it. No nitrite, no nitrate.
What's your take on that? I have continued the MB7 but am leaving for a 6 day vacation tomorrow and the tank will not be dosed for a few days since my house sitter is not very technical (even measuring).
I really appreciate all the input and I'm glad to hear you may have sorted out your ATO issue.
Also, the fuge guard sounds great..I actually want to put a small angler in my display fuge.
I have also gone with the MB7 seed method for my 75g tank, as you did yours. I noticed that you said you wish you had added WAY more shrimp/dead stuff in general. So since I am not in a huge rush for this tank to cycle I thought I'd go ahead and try and feed about 1/2 of what I anticipate feeding on a daily basis once the tank is stocked for the first five days. Essentially this was one cube of frozen mysis per day and some other random flake foods I just tossed in.
I was also dosing about 3-4 capfuls...depending on how late it was
I saw a mini-spike in ammonia on day three to 0.25ppm but that was it. No nitrite, no nitrate.
What's your take on that? I have continued the MB7 but am leaving for a 6 day vacation tomorrow and the tank will not be dosed for a few days since my house sitter is not very technical (even measuring).
I really appreciate all the input and I'm glad to hear you may have sorted out your ATO issue.
Also, the fuge guard sounds great..I actually want to put a small angler in my display fuge.
iwishtofish
Active member
I hope you don't mind me asking this in your thread, but I figured if it's useful information I wouldn't want it buried in our PM inboxes.
I have also gone with the MB7 seed method for my 75g tank, as you did yours. I noticed that you said you wish you had added WAY more shrimp/dead stuff in general. So since I am not in a huge rush for this tank to cycle I thought I'd go ahead and try and feed about 1/2 of what I anticipate feeding on a daily basis once the tank is stocked for the first five days. Essentially this was one cube of frozen mysis per day and some other random flake foods I just tossed in.
I was also dosing about 3-4 capfuls...depending on how late it was
I saw a mini-spike in ammonia on day three to 0.25ppm but that was it. No nitrite, no nitrate.
What's your take on that? I have continued the MB7 but am leaving for a 6 day vacation tomorrow and the tank will not be dosed for a few days since my house sitter is not very technical (even measuring).
I really appreciate all the input and I'm glad to hear you may have sorted out your ATO issue.
Also, the fuge guard sounds great..I actually want to put a small angler in my display fuge.
Dustin,
First of all, I think your tank is looking great! I would definitely ramp up the flow, though, when you get back. The dry rock has so many nooks and crannies to trap detritus, and the more waste we can keep suspended to go down to the skimmer/filter sock, etc, the better. I am going to add a sock and start turkey-basting my rock frequently. I just armed myself with both recently.
I think that is a lot of fuel for a cycle, for sure! How long did your ammonia stick around? Just a day?
I am quite inclined to believe that the MB7 fuels nitrifying bacteria prolifically. The recipe is proprietary, of course, so we don't know what is in it, but it really does seem to fuel a quick cycle. In fact, I think I pretty much missed mine. I was so baffled that I asked about it in another thread. It's brief, but you might have interest:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1998736
After 2 weeks, I switched to the "maintenance dose" of MB7. For my estimated 100g total water volume, that works out to about 2 capfuls dosed once every week. I still haven't seen any signs of algae blooms or bacterial blooms, although many people using dry rock (such as yourself) have. Have you followed drummereef's thread in Reef Discussion? He used all dry rock and MB7, but observed a more noticeable cycle than I did. Not long after, he experienced a brief algae episode.
Anyhow, my guess is that your tank has probably cycled, but I'd watch for ammonia carefully as you very slowly add livestock. I'd also work on blowing any detritus (from all that food) out of your rock, and maybe use a filter sock to catch it as you do.
D5HP
New member
Dustin,
First of all, I think your tank is looking great! I would definitely ramp up the flow, though, when you get back. The dry rock has so many nooks and crannies to trap detritus, and the more waste we can keep suspended to go down to the skimmer/filter sock, etc, the better. I am going to add a sock and start turkey-basting my rock frequently. I just armed myself with both recently.
I think that is a lot of fuel for a cycle, for sure! How long did your ammonia stick around? Just a day?
I am quite inclined to believe that the MB7 fuels nitrifying bacteria prolifically. The recipe is proprietary, of course, so we don't know what is in it, but it really does seem to fuel a quick cycle. In fact, I think I pretty much missed mine. I was so baffled that I asked about it in another thread. It's brief, but you might have interest:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1998736
After 2 weeks, I switched to the "maintenance dose" of MB7. For my estimated 100g total water volume, that works out to about 2 capfuls dosed once every week. I still haven't seen any signs of algae blooms or bacterial blooms, although many people using dry rock (such as yourself) have. Have you followed drummereef's thread in Reef Discussion? He used all dry rock and MB7, but observed a more noticeable cycle than I did. Not long after, he experienced a brief algae episode.
Anyhow, my guess is that your tank has probably cycled, but I'd watch for ammonia carefully as you very slowly add livestock. I'd also work on blowing any detritus (from all that food) out of your rock, and maybe use a filter sock to catch it as you do.
Thanks. That was a good read thanks for the link. I went ahead and just threw in an old Rio powerhead to blast some things around today and tomorrow before I leave before I remove it. I am getting the MP40 when I get back from vacation, so I should have sufficient flow in the tank. If there is no ammonia/nitrite I'll consider the tank cycled and start adding a CUC. Then I'll probably add a half dozen chromis and let them help build the bacteria population even further. I actually want a small group of them...even though I know most people have troubles long term.
Thanks again!
iwishtofish
Active member
I think a small group of chromis would look great in a 75g - which variation are you considering? I'd still like to research anthias, although I don't know that I have enough rock to provide them with cover. That said, I may be stuck with smaller fish, which would be ok by me.
D5HP
New member
I will just get small (tiny if possible) green chromis. I have always had good experience with them but I do feed often. They don't really school or shoal very well unless they are threatened...and after a few weeks after adding all their tank mates they never are.
I believe I'll add them first without a QT so I can monitor them for a few weeks and pump selcon and food through them. I am a firm believer that heavy feedings keep fish healthy.
I actually have one female lyretail in my small reef, which is 36" long. She is ready for the upgrade! Although she is undeniably healthy and has perfect color, I can tell she needs more room. The 75g will honestly just tide her over for another year. I got her at roughly .75" and she has quickly doubled in size. There is plenty of information in the reef fishes forum on anthias that I would recommend. Admittedly the lyretails are one of my all time favorite fish...behind the borbonious anthias (all time favorite). I think a few in your 75g would really set it off. I feel like they make a reef seem so much more vibrant. Pictures simply do not do them justice, especially when you see their vibrant coloration around their eyes.
Ammonia and nitrite are still at zero tonight...after intensely stirring up the tank. I will test nitrate tomorrow before I leave for the trip and then update again upon my return. I look forward to seeing your updates after a few days away!
-Dustin
iwishtofish
Active member
I washed out a couple of filter socks, and I'm getting ready to install one. They are only 2-micron socks, but that should be adequate for what I need to do.
The sandbed, no matter what I do, is inexorably crawling around. This battle is over. I'm giving old heaters a vinegar bath, and I'll be washing out my 40g stock tank so I can mix up 20-30g of new saltwater. Then I'll begin the process of netting out the sand and then siphoning out what's left over.
I'll also use this opportunity to get the carbon and GFO reactors online.
The coralline, if that's what it is, is still growing slowly and popping up all around the rock. Still not purpling up.
The sandbed, no matter what I do, is inexorably crawling around. This battle is over. I'm giving old heaters a vinegar bath, and I'll be washing out my 40g stock tank so I can mix up 20-30g of new saltwater. Then I'll begin the process of netting out the sand and then siphoning out what's left over.
I'll also use this opportunity to get the carbon and GFO reactors online.
The coralline, if that's what it is, is still growing slowly and popping up all around the rock. Still not purpling up.
iwishtofish
Active member
Weird things going on in my tank. It's like the rock has the measles. Blue measles.
There are some small brown patches of what I suspect are diatoms. I've seen them before, and they seem to come and go. There are a few tiny, short strands of that filamentous algae on the glass, but not many and they are not taking off.
Strangest thing - surrounding one of the blue dots (out of hundreds) is a faint blue patch. The coloration may just be the lights - I'll take another look when the main bulbs come on. Hmmmm.
Making water change water as I type. Better get this into gear.
There are some small brown patches of what I suspect are diatoms. I've seen them before, and they seem to come and go. There are a few tiny, short strands of that filamentous algae on the glass, but not many and they are not taking off.
Strangest thing - surrounding one of the blue dots (out of hundreds) is a faint blue patch. The coloration may just be the lights - I'll take another look when the main bulbs come on. Hmmmm.
Making water change water as I type. Better get this into gear.
iwishtofish
Active member
Haha, I don't even want to guess anymore where the cycle is!
I've had the brown diatom-like algae once before, but it didn't stick around long.Every time I think the sand is good to go, I notice it slowly starting to move. I haven't messed with it for a while now, and it is slowly but surely piling up around the base of the rocks and migrating to the painted end of the tank. The usual bare spot has appeared at the other end of the tank. I give up.
I have mixed about 25-30 gallons of new water, and I'm just waiting for it to stabilize. Tomorrow night I will put on the filter sock and start fishing out sand, adding new saltwater as I go to keep the water level up. There will be a lot of stuff going into the water column, but I only have hermits up top and I think they'll be ok. Hopefully the filter sock and skimmer will prevent the corals/critters in the refugium from noticing much change.
After I have most of the sand out, I'll fire up the powerheads again and start blowing the rocks clean. I guess then I'll try to siphon out remaining sand, probably down into the filter sock.
Next project will be the reactors. I'll shut off the feed valves, then remove the sponges and clean them of any detritus in saltwater. I'll add the media, and then flush out the fines into a waste bucket.
Once all that is done, I'll give the tank (and myself) a rest, and then use the remaining new saltwater for a "real" water change.
iwishtofish
Active member
Thank you, MyMonkey!!
***********************************************************
Well, tonight I am in the process of removing the sand. It is a job that, when one is tired, causes one to question their dedication to this hobby. I could be eating some ice cream and watching TV, drifting off to sleep, yet here I am standing in an awkward position trying to rake sand from all around my tank into a puny little net. Saltwater is dripping many places I do not wish it to drip, and I am imagining all the little scratches I am putting in the glass around the bottom sides of the tank.
I hope my hermit crabs make out ok, as well as the soft corals and little critters in the sump. I installed a filter sock. As I replace water, I am raising the salinity a bit, since my new water is a bit over 1.028. I figure that even if I replace as much as 10% of the water, that won't raise the overall salinity very much. It will be interesting to see.
I'll get as much sand out with the net tonight as I can, then turn the pumps back on, dial down my skimmer a bit, and see what I need to siphon out tomorrow night.
iwishtofish
Active member
A little morning update:
I netted as much sand, I think, as I could. There is still some sand piled up against and under the rocks that I can't scoop away, so I'll have to start some siphoning. None of the animals appear any worse for wear - the hermits are moving again, and the corals in the sump look eager to open when the lights come on. The filter sock is brown, and it's time to empty the skimmer cup.
Once I'm done siphoning as much as I can get, I'll clean things up and try to get some pictures up, because...TTIWWP!
I forgot to mention that I added a powerhead (K2) to the refugium. With the added surface agitation, the shimmer under the PAR 38s is UNREAL! I'm going to try to figure out how to get some vids to Photobucket.
I netted as much sand, I think, as I could. There is still some sand piled up against and under the rocks that I can't scoop away, so I'll have to start some siphoning. None of the animals appear any worse for wear - the hermits are moving again, and the corals in the sump look eager to open when the lights come on. The filter sock is brown, and it's time to empty the skimmer cup.
Once I'm done siphoning as much as I can get, I'll clean things up and try to get some pictures up, because...TTIWWP!
I forgot to mention that I added a powerhead (K2) to the refugium. With the added surface agitation, the shimmer under the PAR 38s is UNREAL! I'm going to try to figure out how to get some vids to Photobucket.
