--75g Barebottom/Starboard Reef Project--

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arconom - put single union valves on the top outlets and put a union lower down' on the pipe. then you can at least shut them off and still remove that piece of plumbing to work on it. i would tyr to put a valve lower for each piece to. then you can shut off the flow to it w/out shutting down your whole system.

later
Lunchbucket
 
Travis
Let me think about some more ideas and run it by you guys. I see what you mean on to many outlets and flow being disbursed.

I know the sweet way of doing it is with OMs, but money as at the negetive side atm. But in the future I had every intention on adding them.
 
Another idea if you can't fit a single union valve at each CL outlet.... At least put a union right at the bulkhead and use a bulkhead that is threaded on the side that is inside the tank. Then if you need to work on the plumbing down the road you can put a threaded plug into the bulkhead and still use the unions. Always use unions from your local hardware store if you can. When you change plumbing you lose half of the union and need the same brand and style to fit again. But still try to get a valve on each outlet if you can for flow control.
 
I will try to find some unions thgis week.

Do you have any ideas how to best utilize those 5 CL outlets?
 
You could just leave them be or maybe try the loc-line stuff that OM sells. Personally, I don't care for it from the looks of it anyways. It looks pretty big like it will take up a lot of space. But, I've never used them so I'm just going by pictures.
 
Ok, I figured it might me better just to leave them open. I just want to make sure nothing settles on the bottom in the front and back.
 
everytime i see that first post i start to laugh. i love the pic of the guy drilling the glass with his safetly glasses up on his head!

looks like a nice project!
 
Well I found 3 more 1" true unions at Lowe's. I have a total of 4 now. I have to get my bro-inlaw to help me install them. Most likely he will do since he doesn't like me touching the plumbing:(

Also I leveled the tank while it was dry by putting the level on the bottom of the glass, as you see in the pictures. How do I level it when it's filled?

People say they usually level it when it's dry, and filled.

Where do I put the level when it's filled?
 
arconom said:
Where do I put the level when it's filled?

I just put the level across several corners, to be sure they were all level. You can orientate the level so it runs the length of the tank or the width.

HTH,
Steve
 
The one reason I heard not to do that is the top plastic trim is sometimes uneven. So this would give me a untrue level.
 
Indeed it would. Would it be fair to say then if:

a) your tank is level when testing on the glass now, and
b) your tank is in the same spot, then
c) you could take pre-level tests on the platsic trim now to determine if the trim is level or not.

If c holds true, then you should in theory be able to test for level on the trim when you move the tank.

Just an idea.

Steve
 
I think I will take a level to the trim now pre Water. You guys are right thats about all there is to level it after it is filled for testing.
 
I'm thinking about your flow and the way you have everything now, assuming you plan to leave the bottom 2 outlets open, all of your flow is coming from the back of the tank pointing to the front. This "might" cause the water to bank off the front glass and then disperse back towards the back. What I worry about is this may push all the detritus that won't suspend to the back of the tank. If you aquscape all the way to the back wall you may not be able to siphon it. You may want to leave a few inches between the rocks and the back just in case. But this is just a "thought". No way to know for sure until everything is set up and running with rock in the tank. Maybe you could put some 45's on those bottom outlets pointing to the bottom. This would cause the flow to hit the bottom and spread out across the bottom while pushing the detritus towards the front of the tank.
 
Yeah sounds like a plan.

I also plan to leave room around all the sides. Thats the one flaw I made and many others, stacking the rock on the back glass. I don't want there to be any dead spots. Also I won't be stacking on the bottom either. I might lift it all with PVC but make sure it's not visible.
 
Have you seen the acrylic rod LR legs that people have been using? Looks like a pretty sweet idea. Just thought I would throw the option out on the table.
 
Yes I have:) How do they secure them? Are they threaded rod? Or do they just drill a hole and insert a rod?

On a side note I am thinking about how I can make something that holds my Light Cabinet so I can move it by myself. Sliding rails or something? A minature version of what you have or Steve Weast uses? A roller system. Do you have any more detail on that? You can see my lighting cabinet in the beginning.

Also Travis where did you get your Epoxy paint?
 
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