masterswimmer
New member
Travis, we need to read salinity at least to the thousandth.
1.0 = tenth
1.02 = hundreth
1.026 = thousandth
1.0265 = natural sea water
1.0 = tenth
1.02 = hundreth
1.026 = thousandth
1.0265 = natural sea water
--75g Barebottom/Starboard Reef Project--
- Thread starter arconom
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masterswimmer
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6259292#post6259292 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Travis
Salinity.... yes. PH.... no.I can see how you may have been confused, however, as we were talking about both at the same time.
Duhhhhhh! Nope, that's me, just one confused puppy
lol.Thanks for the clarification,
Russ
Travis
10 and over club
That is about as much as I know about them. All I know is they are listed on Ushio's site. That's about it. I also know that Ushio is one of the "old timers" in regards to metal halide bulbs in this hobby. They have been around and have a "proven" product so I would expect nothing short of top quality from their 14k.
Lunchbucket
Premium Member
i run a Milwaukee controller on my Ca Rx and have been using it since my 20H days 3 or 4 years...i forget which. it works great and was a heck of a lot cheaper. for a reactor it will work great. you only need hundreths for a Ca Rx.
i've always been meaning to but some of that salinity reference solution to test my refractometer. we can test 0 w/ RO/DI if it is clean but it would be nice to have a known scientfic grade solution to test against. i think i need a new refractometer as mine is 2-3yrs old and the plastic window is busted off. you just lay the window on the sample and it works but i get leary that it is off though....it prolly isn't but i valuable piece of equipment like that is only 50bucks to replace to make sure
Lunchbucket
i've always been meaning to but some of that salinity reference solution to test my refractometer. we can test 0 w/ RO/DI if it is clean but it would be nice to have a known scientfic grade solution to test against. i think i need a new refractometer as mine is 2-3yrs old and the plastic window is busted off. you just lay the window on the sample and it works but i get leary that it is off though....it prolly isn't but i valuable piece of equipment like that is only 50bucks to replace to make sure
Lunchbucket
Travis
10 and over club
Not much, but it's all I got. Pretty much just shows that there IS a 14k and what the price will be.
http://www.viclite.com/blv_10k.htm
Pretty much just shows that there IS a 14k and what the price will be.http://www.viclite.com/blv_10k.htm
arconom
Premium Member
Well I found out alot about the BLV/Ushio 14ks. There is a rumor that I heard from ReefGeek that there was a bad run of these bulbs. So they won't be out for sometime.
So I gave Premium Aquatics a call,we talked for what seemed to me like forever. He does in fact have the 250SE BLV 14ks BUT they are stamped 10k, So we both wondered if in fact they were the bulbs. They are known as Nepturion bulbs.
I forget names but the guy was awesome! He knew his stuff.
In a few weeks he will be testing the Old School 10 Ushios compared to the supposed BLV 14k bulbs.
From what Moonpod has said the BLV DEs burn White, not blue. I hope the SEs might be similiar. But I know they will not be.
So after talking I decided not to try them. But I am going to try a new bulb. I used to use 10 Ushios with 2 actinics. They were great and were my first bulb Then I tried the XMs which I am still using. They are the most brightest bulbs you will ever see. Much less yellow then Ushios and add the 2 actinics were talking a nice crisp white.
So it has come time more me to start making small steps toward the blues. I'm not talking 20k Radiums. I'm talking 12ks.
Awhile back I bought some used Hamiltons on RC try out. They are very blue and dull to me. I just bought them to try and havent used them since. Plus one flickers.
Which brings me back to Buying a new bulb. I asked about the AB10ks I wanted to try them since they spec out to 13k but PA wasn't to WOW about them.
Well I figured I would try the 10k Reeflux bulb.
NOT to be confused with the old school Coravue 12-14ks. But it is the same company.
The person at PA said it burns a nice crisp white no yellow without Actinics. So I figure if it burns nice crisp white and I turn my actinics on it will make it a small push towards the blue end.
I don't know guys I just need a change without sacrificing to much par and not to blue. This is not my dream setup so I will give it a try.
I was so close to buying the new lighting that I wanted, But I said no I bought enough for awhile.
So I gave Premium Aquatics a call,we talked for what seemed to me like forever. He does in fact have the 250SE BLV 14ks BUT they are stamped 10k, So we both wondered if in fact they were the bulbs. They are known as Nepturion bulbs.
I forget names but the guy was awesome! He knew his stuff.
In a few weeks he will be testing the Old School 10 Ushios compared to the supposed BLV 14k bulbs.
From what Moonpod has said the BLV DEs burn White, not blue. I hope the SEs might be similiar. But I know they will not be.
So after talking I decided not to try them. But I am going to try a new bulb. I used to use 10 Ushios with 2 actinics. They were great and were my first bulb
Then I tried the XMs which I am still using. They are the most brightest bulbs you will ever see. Much less yellow then Ushios and add the 2 actinics were talking a nice crisp white.So it has come time more me to start making small steps toward the blues. I'm not talking 20k Radiums. I'm talking 12ks.
Awhile back I bought some used Hamiltons on RC try out. They are very blue and dull to me. I just bought them to try and havent used them since. Plus one flickers.
Which brings me back to Buying a new bulb. I asked about the AB10ks I wanted to try them since they spec out to 13k but PA wasn't to WOW about them.
Well I figured I would try the 10k Reeflux bulb.
NOT to be confused with the old school Coravue 12-14ks. But it is the same company.
The person at PA said it burns a nice crisp white no yellow without Actinics. So I figure if it burns nice crisp white and I turn my actinics on it will make it a small push towards the blue end.
I don't know guys I just need a change without sacrificing to much par and not to blue. This is not my dream setup so I will give it a try.
I was so close to buying the new lighting that I wanted, But I said no I bought enough for awhile.
Zoom
Premium Member
Whell i swich from 10K xm 250W SE .
Reason.
I need to stop my coral growth some they are getting out of control.
I like a little more blue light in the tank.
Just to try something new.
Now i have IC electronic ballast .
On JBNY 250W bulb test i seen that the 14K AC had the best par.
But the 14K Hamilton is right up there if you have the IC ballast i try them they are only $60 a bulb i have them on my reef tank now for over a month i really like them so far.
Reason.
I need to stop my coral growth some they are getting out of control.
I like a little more blue light in the tank.
Just to try something new.
Now i have IC electronic ballast .
On JBNY 250W bulb test i seen that the 14K AC had the best par.
But the 14K Hamilton is right up there if you have the IC ballast i try them they are only $60 a bulb i have them on my reef tank now for over a month i really like them so far.
arconom
Premium Member
Well things are going great. My coral growth is amazing. I took the advice of my friend Jay and put my XMs back on the tank. I figure I can put the Reeflux bulbs on later after I get whole colonies.
The reefluxs are AWESOME Bulbs. They werent burned in all the way but from the looks they were great.
My tank is doing excellent!!! I siphon destritus ever week. I change about 5 gallons a week not because I read something but because I'm there siponing destritus anyway so why not
Well my kalk reactor is working great but I tried a another kind of kalk since I ran out of Rowakalk.
Heres the story....
In my old setup I used Picking lime all the time. It was cheap and did the job. BUT the one thing I had happen alot was pump seizure due to calc build up on my pump shafts. This would happen with my MAGdrives and Maxijets. I was and still am using Mag pumps. I also would get thick crusts of yellow sheets of film that formed from the kalk in my sump..
FAST FOWARD TO PRESENT...........
I cleaned my pump like I mentioned a week ago because my mag pump stopped working. I should have put 2 and 2 together. Next, I was cleaning my Deltec skimmer so I turned it off and it wouldn't turn back on. Same thing Shaft was siezed..
Then my Heaters were coated with a thick film of calc/Lime...
THEN the notorious yellow sheets of crunchy film stuff formed from the kalk.
I know it was from the Kalk I was using...Kent Kalkwasser mix. I bought a small bottle to try, since I had a order in already with Marine Depot of 4lbs of TLF Kalk.
Well so far I think the TLF kalk might be doing the same thing. Where I used to drip my kalk using ROWAkalk it took weeks before I would see a build up kalk on the wall of my sump.
WELL I'm seeing it already with TLF kalk
I guess I will be buying more ROWAkalk. I will give it a month.
I received my mini reactor today.
The reefluxs are AWESOME Bulbs. They werent burned in all the way but from the looks they were great.
My tank is doing excellent!!! I siphon destritus ever week. I change about 5 gallons a week not because I read something but because I'm there siponing destritus anyway so why not
Well my kalk reactor is working great but I tried a another kind of kalk since I ran out of Rowakalk.
Heres the story....
In my old setup I used Picking lime all the time. It was cheap and did the job. BUT the one thing I had happen alot was pump seizure due to calc build up on my pump shafts. This would happen with my MAGdrives and Maxijets. I was and still am using Mag pumps. I also would get thick crusts of yellow sheets of film that formed from the kalk in my sump..
FAST FOWARD TO PRESENT...........
I cleaned my pump like I mentioned a week ago because my mag pump stopped working. I should have put 2 and 2 together. Next, I was cleaning my Deltec skimmer so I turned it off and it wouldn't turn back on. Same thing Shaft was siezed..
Then my Heaters were coated with a thick film of calc/Lime...
THEN the notorious yellow sheets of crunchy film stuff formed from the kalk.
I know it was from the Kalk I was using...Kent Kalkwasser mix. I bought a small bottle to try, since I had a order in already with Marine Depot of 4lbs of TLF Kalk.
Well so far I think the TLF kalk might be doing the same thing. Where I used to drip my kalk using ROWAkalk it took weeks before I would see a build up kalk on the wall of my sump.
WELL I'm seeing it already with TLF kalk
I guess I will be buying more ROWAkalk. I will give it a month.
I received my mini reactor today.
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