--75g Barebottom/Starboard Reef Project--

[elephen]

BTW how are you liking BB w/starboard and the cooked rocks so far?

Reason I ask is that I am getting ready to upgrade my 75g SPS tank w/a SSB to a 120g AGA RR system thats drilled for a CL w/starboard.

I have had some rocks in the sump for over a year now and they have no algae growth or anything and look just like the 'cooked' rocks. I have them in a completely dark container now and they'll be in there for another few weeks until I can make the switch.

Just wanted to see how you liked it since I'm going the same route Hopefully I'll be extremely happy, after crusing through all the threads I think I will be.

 

[arconom]

ATM I think it's just a standard Magnetic ballast.

Well after a some months of having my setup I can now comment on many questions you have.


If I could do it again I would have bought all Reeferrocks or HIrocks and intorduced a cycle to them and then cook them for half the time. The money and time I would have saved would have been incredible. I went through alot of salt.

If you slack on siponing destritus off the bottom of the tank you will see it. Let me tell you after 1 week it looks horrible.

The best thing I did when I sized the Starboard was the leave a 1/2-1inch gap along the whole perimeter of the starboard. This acts like a gutter where all the detritus settles. It makes it so easy for siponing.

As far as using flow to keep detritus off the bottom and keep it suspended in the water column plan on major flow! I have a Reeflow Dart Closed loop 1 6100 tunze stream and 1 seio 1500 and can use more I still can't keep the detritus off the bottom.

 

[melev]

I don't use atinic supplimentation and in the last month the newest frags I put in have nearly doubled in size. I hang them about 7-8" above the water line.

What is wrong with this quote? :lol:

Chris, the 20,000K have half the PAR of 10,000K bulbs. Less PAR means less growth. Those that prefer coloration endure slower growth. Or the run 6500K or 10,000K for a few hours each day to give the corals what they need, and then enjoy the tank under 20,000K only.

I won't do it. I like my tank the way it is.

 

[elephen]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6362325#post6362325 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
What is wrong with this quote? :lol:

I was just stating that since my bulbs are 20k (although not 20k in color) that the need for atinic supplimentation is no more.

I really personally enjoy the 12-14k coloring, anything more then that and it gets too blue, unless your running an HQI ballast to burn the bulbs brighter.

 

[Pyrrhus]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6362325#post6362325 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
What is wrong with this quote? :lol:

its difficult to keep coral alive above the water line long term.

 

[elephen]

lol

 

[Travis]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6350613#post6350613 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by arconom

I notice that you have a thick white line at the top of your kalk stirrer. Is your outlet line submerged? If it is, the water level in the stirrer will have to rise until it gets above the outlet elbow. Then a siphon will start and keep going until the water level falls below the elbow. Each time this happens you coat the edge of the kalk stirrer with kalk water. When the water level falls this evaporates and leaves behind a white precipitate that is almost impossible to clean off. I found the running my outlet tube above the water line stopped the siphon effect and reduced the precipitate buildup on the edges of the stirrer. Just thought I would throw that out in case yours is submerged.

In regards to the 20k vs 10k debate, it is simply a matter of personal preference. For me, I couldn't get my corals to grow worth squat with 400w Radiums on HQI's. Growth more than doubled by switching to 10k XM's even though I downgraded to 250 watters. Pretty much the only corals that don't look as good under the 10k's are the greens, IMO. 20k bulbs seem to make the greens really come out and glow. Under 10k the greens will appear more dull. I do miss the aesthetic appearence of 20k bulbs because I do personally like the bluer look but I'm not willing to sacrifice my growth for it. I've ran everything from 6.5k to 10k to 14k to 20k and I prefer the 10k the most, but it MUST be supplemented with plenty of actinic.

 

[arconom]

Travis once the reactor fills it emptys. How did you change the level of your outlet tube? Just turn it?


Well another package today! I think the neighbors think I'm doing something fishy!!! I get packages everday!!

After dragging my feet I finally bought that 25watt UV from a Fellow Reefer. The unit is in mint condition.

I won't be hooking this unit up until I get my new sump. I know plumbing this thing is very important. I don't want to dry run it because of my dumb mistake.

 

[Travis]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6366838#post6366838 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by arconom
Travis once the reactor fills it emptys. How did you change the level of your outlet tube? Just turn it?

IIRC, you just need to make sure the tubing that you have going from the stirrer to the sump is not submerged below the sump water level. That is what worked for me anyways, YMMV.

 

[arconom]

Well it pretty sad when you wake up at 6am in the morning and sit down to (use the bathroom) and you notice something sounds weird from your tank in the basement...


Sure enough late for work since my MAG7 was siezed due to kalk. This never happened using the rowakalk! I can't believe there is such a difference in kalk quality.

I know Travis you mentioned that it is from the addition of kalk to quicklly but my reactor only drips at a time when it calls for it. I must evap 1/2 gallon a day.

 

[Zoom]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6373736#post6373736 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by arconom
Well it pretty sad when you wake up at 6am in the morning and sit down to (use the bathroom) and you notice something sounds weird from your tank in the basement...


Sure enough late for work since my MAG7 was siezed due to kalk. This never happened using the rowakalk! I can't believe there is such a difference in kalk quality.

I know Travis you mentioned that it is from the addition of kalk to quicklly but my reactor only drips at a time when it calls for it. I must evap 1/2 gallon a day.

I stop kalk drip over two years now , just for the same reason.

 

[arconom]

I wish I could stop. My PH runs at 7.9 without my Calcium Reactor running.

 

[Zoom]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6373929#post6373929 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by arconom
I wish I could stop. My PH runs at 7.9 without my Calcium Reactor running.

Don't worry my sometimes goes down to 7.8 I never had any problem with the tank after i stop running kalk two years now my PH alway goes down that far at midnight.

 

[Lunchbucket]

i have gotten my pH to run low at night w/ no problems usually 7.9 at the low

Lunchbucket

 

[Travis]

Since I stopped dosing kalk, my tank hits 7.8 every night and only gets up to about 8.1 during the day. This is also with the room closed up so that will also contribute to lower ph. Nothing to worry about.

BTW, Mag pumps will seize with or without kalk. They seem to be notorious for it.

 

[arconom]

Well a few things have happened this week.

My Koran Tang is Dead. I actually never saw it eat. It only picked whatever I had off the liverocks. There wasn't enough for him. The Ich did disappear in the end.

Am I upset? Well I won't lie to you guys, I love corals and this tank is a temporary tank until I get my 120. That 120 will have many fish. So I'm not really upset at all. Will I get another Tang to pick at my Liverock yeah maybe.

I took my Calcium Reactor Offline. ATM there is no need for it. I have frags guys I have to add 25ML of alk B-ionic 1 time a week

You all know I'm currently trying out the 250watt 10k SE Reeflux bulbs.

There nice. Time will tell on the growth issue. But I have to say my corals look like the corals I see in pictures. For example my Blue prostrata I bought was brown. Slowlly the edges of the corrallites are turning blue.

My Pink prostrata that turned Orange is now turning back to pink. All I can say is wow...

 

[elephen]

250w right?

 

[arconom]

Yes, 250w 10k SE Reflux on a mag ballast.


Good news!!! My birthday is coming up!!!!! More presents.

Ok here are my choices

1. Another Tunze 6100 or wait for Icecap?

2. Dual Temp controller for summer?

3. Gift Certificate to :

http://www.atlantisaquarium.net/index.html

or

http://www.fragfarmer.com/

or basically any place I want to shop.

4. A new 120 Tank which I told my wife no The 120 upgrade ATM would mean new lights and a new return pump.

5. I'm not sure. Give me some ideas.

 

[elephen]

Another Tunze would be nice I think... Since you seem to have just about everything else.

BTW how is your Dart working on your CL?

I'm almost finished building my stand and canopy for my new 120 (4x2x2) and my Dart will be here next week.

On my CL I have 2 1.5" intakes and 4 1" outputs. I know this probably isn't going to be enough flow on a BB/starboard system and am getting ready to order 2 Tunze 6100's and the multicontroller.

Just want your thoughts

Have any updated pics with your new bulbs?

 

[melev]

Get a VorTech. It comes out in a few months.