--75g Barebottom/Starboard Reef Project--
- Thread starter arconom
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melev
Well-known member
Oh, that's good. Today when I got up, my skimmer was overflowing back into my sump again. The water was a bit polluted, but once I got the skimmer's collection cup cleaned again and adjusted, the water was clear within a couple of hours. I really think having a skimmer in the sump is the best way to go. Since I clean the collection cup daily (or every other day), there isn't that much skimmate to dump back into the system.
arconom
Premium Member
Marc your suggestions on contruction of the sump were great
When you see the setup picture the sump right behind the frag tank. I can't do 3D drawings
I want to know where the DUBV goes if I want the water diverted to my sump if my Overflow can't take the flow. I marked the 2 areas in red.
When you see the setup picture the sump right behind the frag tank. I can't do 3D drawings
I want to know where the DUBV goes if I want the water diverted to my sump if my Overflow can't take the flow. I marked the 2 areas in red.
melev
Well-known member
Ah. For some reason, I thought the sump was going under the frag tank in your new stand. I didn't realize it was going behind it.
Ballvalves should go anywhere when you plan to remove something, like both sides closest to the return pump. That way you can close each valve, then remove the pump for cleaning / maintenance. So in that picture, I would put the ballvalve beneath the Tee and then another one to the right of the Tee. The one beneath the Tee is so you can clean the pump. The one to the right will allow you to control how much rediverts to the sump. You might not need it at all, hopefully.
Ballvalves should go anywhere when you plan to remove something, like both sides closest to the return pump. That way you can close each valve, then remove the pump for cleaning / maintenance. So in that picture, I would put the ballvalve beneath the Tee and then another one to the right of the Tee. The one beneath the Tee is so you can clean the pump. The one to the right will allow you to control how much rediverts to the sump. You might not need it at all, hopefully.
arconom
Premium Member
Marc what kind of hole saw should I use for the sump?? I don't want to mess it up
Ok guys heres the deal. I have 2 Brand new 1 1/2" bulkheads instead of going with the 2" is it ok to go with the 1 1/2" bulkhead for the intake to the Iwaki Pump?
If I go with the 1 1/2" I can get the whole plumb job done this weekend. If 2" then I have to order a 2" bulkhead.
Ok guys heres the deal. I have 2 Brand new 1 1/2" bulkheads instead of going with the 2" is it ok to go with the 1 1/2" bulkhead for the intake to the Iwaki Pump?
If I go with the 1 1/2" I can get the whole plumb job done this weekend. If 2" then I have to order a 2" bulkhead.
arconom
Premium Member
Another question atm I have a Iwaki 30RLT pump If I drill it to the same height as the intake what happens down the road when I want a bigger pump with a different height??
Where do I drill the hole so I can always upgrade my pump and not have to keep drilling holes.
For example:
I drill a hole 1 " from the bottom of the sump for my pump now. In 4 months I buy a Iwaki 55 or bigger. What if the hole is to low?
So where is the best placement?
Where do I drill the hole so I can always upgrade my pump and not have to keep drilling holes.
For example:
I drill a hole 1 " from the bottom of the sump for my pump now. In 4 months I buy a Iwaki 55 or bigger. What if the hole is to low?
So where is the best placement?
melev
Well-known member
When figuring out the height, I like to drill the hole so that the bulkhead will be in the perfect position for an elbow to be inserted, in case it is needed. The elbow should be situation so that there is a 1" gap between the bottom of the sump and the PVC fitting. This can help avoid sucking in microbubbles and definitely prevents vortexing any water from the surface when the water level drops for some reason.
I'll take a picture of the bit I use.
I'll take a picture of the bit I use.
melev
Well-known member
Okay. Here is a group shot of your options.
Back left, a one-piece holesaw, good for one-time use. It is hard to get the wood or acrylic out of the saw once the hole has been drilled, but with a nail, you can poke it out.
Back right, a hole saw kit from Harbor Freight (or Home Depot) with many sizes.
Front, Blumol drill bits, along with the drill shank.
I prefer the Blumol saws (at Home Depot) because they don't heat up and melt the acrylic, and it is easier to get the acrylic out of the saw once done. They cost more. The drill bit section and the saw (white section) will run you about $20. As you can see, I have three bits, for 1", 1.5", and 2" bulkheads. The bit for a 1.5" bulkhead will drill a 2 3/8" hole in the acrylic.
Here's a picture of the drill bit section, which has a knurled collar that is twisted to raise locking pins.
The white section threads onto the drill bit, and then the collar is twisted to engage the locking pins, like this:
The next best option will cost you $5 to $12, and you'll get an entire kit, but make sure it contains the size you need. This bit will get quite hot and the acrylic will melt a little.
By loosening this nut, you can exchange various hole saws depending on the task at hand.
And finally, the one-piece bit. I rarely use these unless I'm stuck and can't find another. It won't cost much, under $5 I think. It definitely will get hot and melt the acrylic.
Driling the hole doesn't take long at all. The center drill bit will keep it from wandering. Press down gently while drilling, and within 45 seconds you'll have a hole. Once the hole has been drilled (I use a cordless DeWalt drill), you'll need to remove any burrs; a chisel will do this job adequately.. Sand it lightly, and make sure the inside and outside of the hole are smooth to the touch. Done!
Back left, a one-piece holesaw, good for one-time use. It is hard to get the wood or acrylic out of the saw once the hole has been drilled, but with a nail, you can poke it out.
Back right, a hole saw kit from Harbor Freight (or Home Depot) with many sizes.
Front, Blumol drill bits, along with the drill shank.
I prefer the Blumol saws (at Home Depot) because they don't heat up and melt the acrylic, and it is easier to get the acrylic out of the saw once done. They cost more. The drill bit section and the saw (white section) will run you about $20. As you can see, I have three bits, for 1", 1.5", and 2" bulkheads. The bit for a 1.5" bulkhead will drill a 2 3/8" hole in the acrylic.
Here's a picture of the drill bit section, which has a knurled collar that is twisted to raise locking pins.
The white section threads onto the drill bit, and then the collar is twisted to engage the locking pins, like this:
The next best option will cost you $5 to $12, and you'll get an entire kit, but make sure it contains the size you need. This bit will get quite hot and the acrylic will melt a little.
By loosening this nut, you can exchange various hole saws depending on the task at hand.
And finally, the one-piece bit. I rarely use these unless I'm stuck and can't find another. It won't cost much, under $5 I think. It definitely will get hot and melt the acrylic.
Driling the hole doesn't take long at all. The center drill bit will keep it from wandering. Press down gently while drilling, and within 45 seconds you'll have a hole. Once the hole has been drilled (I use a cordless DeWalt drill), you'll need to remove any burrs; a chisel will do this job adequately.. Sand it lightly, and make sure the inside and outside of the hole are smooth to the touch. Done!
Lunchbucket
Premium Member
wrasses are cool fish. i picked up a 6-line last week. he is one of my fav fishes i've ever had....i loved my old one
Lunchbucket
Lunchbucket
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