75g build.
- Thread starter CrazyEyes
- Start date
Lilmatty5dimes
New member
Sweet progression pics. Cant wait to see it wet. Shoukd be soon. One think I see is did you put a union on the other side of your return to do maintenance if needed? I would go with a wp25 I think the 40 should only be in a 6' long tank. Just my $0.02
Milfordguy
Member
Nice, glad to see you guys were successful today. Congrats, keep us updated.
CrazyEyes
New member
I also wanted to comment, these three holes were drilled without any plumbers putty or a hose. I made a large wood template. Used the template to get a nice groove cut. Removed the template once the groove was cut. Clamped a piece of wood on the opposite side of driling(to prevent the glass from falling out). Then we just sprayed the bit off with a spray bottle as it was being drilled. These holes came out really nice, there is absolutely no chipping at all.
CrazyEyes
New member
Also, I am definitely going to put a union right after the pump outlet. There will also be a true union ball valve just incase I need to make minor adjustments. According to Ecotech, a mp10 and mp40 would be ideal for a 48x18x21 sps tank. So I think I am going to run an wp-40 alongside the wp-25.
Rbs07fxstc
New member
A gate valve works much better than a ball valve. It's much more precise to dial in perfectly when used for the return flow. I used a gate for my return & ball for my manifold. The ball is hard to adjust & tends to stick. Gate always has smooth minor turns. A lil more pricey but I believe it's worth a few extra bucks on that part. Nice holes btw. Surprised they came out so smooth with very little water flow. I wanna plug my bottom drilled tank & do a coast to coast overflow. I got in a hurry & didn't wanna wait. Good job with the patience! Lol
CrazyEyes
New member
I might see if Grainger has any in stock. They're definitely much more precise. I'm pretty stoked to finally have a coast to coast overflow, I wanted a tank with a C2C since I had the 20g setup and was going to do a 40B with one then found a drilled one. I can honestly say, after drilling this tank I will NEVER buy a drilled tank again, unless it's exactly the way I want it.
aguila88psi
Zoa Addict
For cheapie gate valves check out ace hardware or amazon, for nice ones go with spears brand and probably have to order through BRS
If you want gate valves, you can find the Spears branded ones cheap on everyones favorite auction site. I got a 1.5" gate valve for $29 shipped, which is $58 from BRS.
Milfordguy
Member
I did the same thing with my 40 today. Picked it up and went to put it on the stand and if you were watching you would have probably thought I was trying to body slam it.
CrazyEyes
New member
LOL! Now that's funny, I got it pictured in my head and I can imagine. Got the return plumbing done, I just need to glue it and secure it to the stand. Pretty happy with the way it came out.
Left to right, emergency drain, full siphon, secondary drail.
Secondary drain, full siphon and all the way on the other side is the emergency.
Yeah the pipes are slanted. Had to do it this way because of the sump position but I don't think it will affect it at all.
Left to right, emergency drain, full siphon, secondary drail.
Secondary drain, full siphon and all the way on the other side is the emergency.
Yeah the pipes are slanted. Had to do it this way because of the sump position but I don't think it will affect it at all.
Milfordguy
Member
What is the purpose of having the cap at the top of the drain? That is how my 40B was plumbed before and I was wondering if I should include that, or just do a 90 degree bend down to the sump.
