75g stand design

I've just finished putting the frame together. Here are some pics...
DSC05514.jpg

DSC05512.jpg


...Does anyone think this will not hold my 75g?? also, how many screws should I be using at each joint? 2 good enought?
 
ultra spikey
Looks good and should support the 75 no problem with the legs cut the way you did. Have you ever seen the AGA stands and how they are made?? If your planning on adding sheeting on the outside it will beef it up some more.
2 screws in the joint of a 2x4 should be fine. I used 3 on a 2x6 but also used wood glue on all joints.
 
I kind of want to make my stand/canopy to look like this one...I think its an AGA stand....
124624mini-IMG_0750.jpg


...I do plan on adding oak plywood to the outside...maybe 1/4" thick
 
I would go with 1/2" just be a little stronger. Mine was with 3/4" and its like a rock but also heavy as can be. Doors are the fun part to do unless you get pre-made..After doing 12 of them now I`m getting pretty good at it, although they are simple doors.
Mine ended up like this in the end, simple but functional and matches the other stands I have. If you plan on MHs in the future you may want the canopy a little taller than in the pic though. Otherwise it will put them pretty close to the water.

spencerinla,
Nice stand in your pictures and great woodwork done on it.

78452000_0001__Small_.jpg
 
For the wood I used solid oak pieces in 1x3 and the centers are 1/8 oak plywood. Just routered a decorative edge on the wood first, cut a 1/4 channel on the backside and deep enough for the oak panel and then cut the pieces to size and with a 45 angle. To put it all together I made a corner jig I could clamp the wood into and then used a Kreg tool to make all the pocket holes and screwed them together. Best tool in the world for this kind of thing. Did the first 8 doors before getting this with an air finishing nailer and glue but the Kreg on this cabinet made it a breeze. If you can just get the small jig it will work fine. I got the whole big kit at a great price so I bought it.



7845206_Small_.jpg
 
Actually all comercially mass produced stands are using 3/4" thick material for tanks up to at least 90 gallons. Most of them are pine as well.
So when you look at most Do It Yourself stands we are really going over kill in comparison.
Myself I'm using 3/4" oak plywood for the sides which will also hold the weight on my new 120 gallon tank. As "I get it done I'll post some pictures. The system I'm using is to cut, stain, and seal all peices prior to assembly this should eliminate possible moisture issue that can cause swelling of the wood in the long term.
Dennis





<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8589920#post8589920 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Phyxius
ultra spikey
Looks good and should support the 75 no problem with the legs cut the way you did. Have you ever seen the AGA stands and how they are made?? If your planning on adding sheeting on the outside it will beef it up some more.
2 screws in the joint of a 2x4 should be fine. I used 3 on a 2x6 but also used wood glue on all joints.
Click to expand...
 
TropTrea,
That's actually what I meant on my comment. The frame of a AGA stand is pretty light compared to these in the pics. I think they use 1x4 for the inner framework if I remember right. The stands made with our 2x4 framing like most on RC are capable of holding more weight in the long run. All of mine are 3/4" oak plywood on bases and a mix between 3/4 and 1/2 on the canopies.

Great comment on the sealing idea. That's why I also primed and painted the framing first before applying the outside paneling. All seams, screw holes and the like were sealed with silicone caulk after paneling went on and then 2 more coats of paint on inside. over 5 coats of stain and sealer went on the outsides. It was actually built to hold in about 5-7 gallons of water in case of overflow of the sump in the bottom.

I even built a side cabinet for my 90 for chiller/top-off storage/Geo Calcium Reactor/ballasts and etc made with 3/4" panels but 1x3 framing and its capable of holding lots of weight built like that with the 3/4 plywood bringing it all together (even though it doesn't need too). I feel safer with the overkill and building it was cheaper :)


7845202c__Small_.jpg
 
Actually after looking a one stand for a 90/75 gallon it was not even 1 X 4's but the actual measurement was 3/4" X 2 1/2" along the front and back of the stand. Note this was not an All Glass stand but was made by a company that exclusively builds stands and canopies. (There suggested reatail price for that stand and canopy combo is just under $1,000 and is extremly simple in design, construction, and very plain in appearance compared to many Do It Your Self pictures I have seen.

Another note using oak board while more expensive are pribably close to 2 times as capable of bearing weight than pine which is used by 95% of the comercial companies.

Phyxius, I do like the looks of your stand it realy would have fit in with the decor of our house before our fire. However now the decorating is completly different and much more 17th New England so my design is considerably more simple. No rounded out corners and a more rustic look.

Another beifit of do it yourself here. Your not limited to someone elses idea of decorating styles that they think would like noce in a house they never saw.

Dennis


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8591348#post8591348 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Phyxius
TropTrea,
That's actually what I meant on my comment. The frame of a AGA stand is pretty light compared to these in the pics. I think they use 1x4 for the inner framework if I remember right. The stands made with our 2x4 framing like most on RC are capable of holding more weight in the long run. All of mine are 3/4" oak plywood on bases and a mix between 3/4 and 1/2 on the canopies.
Click to expand...
 
this might be a dumb question, but can I put sealer on the frame without staining it?

also, what color stain should I get to look like this...
124624mini-IMG_0750.jpg
 
ultra spikey
Yes you can seal it without staining it first. It will just give you the natural color of the wood if you use a clear sealer. Or you can use a colored sealer/primer and do the same.
You could stain it with black stain or use a black paint to get that finish on the outside of the stand.
I sealed the frame of mine with sealer than some marine enamel. Worked out much better than plain sealer and any salt residue wipes right off.
 
Stain it first and then seal it unless you are painting it and using a wood sealer/primer first. Primer under paint helps the paint to adhere to the wood and seals the wood pores kind of. Confusing isnt it.....not so bad really :)

On my outside I used 2 coats of STAIN and then sealed it. On the inside I primed/sealed it first and them put 3 coats of marine enamel paint on it
 
can someone explain how they cut the notches for the half-lap joints? i found a how-to using a circular saw and a chisel but I figure there's an easier way?
 
It is realy hard to tell from the picture if it is black or a very dark brown. MiniWax makes stains in multiple colors and Im sure on of them will come close to matching your expectations.

There sain is also a sealer so after you stain it is all you need to do is add three coats of Polyerethane to in. Do not go with the water cheal up finishes as they are not as durable.

Dennis


<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8593888#post8593888 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ultra spikey
this might be a dumb question, but can I put sealer on the frame without staining it?

also, what color stain should I get to look like this...
124624mini-IMG_0750.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the comments! Wow, now that I see all these stainable stands, makes me want to stain instead of texture :)

Nice work guys!
 
Actually there are several options.

The onses I have used sucessfully are using a Datoo Blade on a Table saw, as well as using a router on a router table.

There are sopme fancy fixture devices you can get for this but I have never tried them mainly do there high cost. Why build an item for $200 in parts, and put 40 hours into it , when you can buy it for $800.00 if you njeed to spend an extra $5,000 in tools.

Now if you can come up with 10 projects for those tools it is another issue.

Some cheaper methods I have heard about but had little luck with are the hammer a chissel methods as well as even the carving tool methods. The hammer and chissel is just to prone for mistakes for me. The carving tools system is too time consuming but with a littloe skill you can get some real decroative effects with it.

Dennis



<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8601439#post8601439 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jdircksen
can someone explain how they cut the notches for the half-lap joints? i found a how-to using a circular saw and a chisel but I figure there's an easier way?
Click to expand...
 
i ended up just using a table saw to make the cuts for the lap joints and finished off where the table saw couldn't reach with a hand saw. it turned out pretty nicely.

89078jdtank.JPG
 
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