75g Stand Project (Pics)
- Thread starter kstuart
- Start date
werew
New member
Kstuart,
Great job on the stand AND canopy! I'm just finishing up on mine as well too.
1/4" thick ply skin over a VERY strong doubled 2x4 frame! Hide the plywoods ends using trim and VOILA!!! I used 3/4 ply birch for mine's skin because the 1/4" birch selection at all the stores was pathetic.
I think you did a great job on the canopy opening's seam too. Think about this.... if you bought stand/canopy from a pet store for even $350-$500'ish, would it be built that solidly and strong? NO! Would the stores canopy's seam be hidden as well as you've done with your's? NO! Would it be as aesthetically appealing as your's? Nope.
Great job on the stand AND canopy! I'm just finishing up on mine as well too.
1/4" thick ply skin over a VERY strong doubled 2x4 frame! Hide the plywoods ends using trim and VOILA!!! I used 3/4 ply birch for mine's skin because the 1/4" birch selection at all the stores was pathetic.
I think you did a great job on the canopy opening's seam too. Think about this.... if you bought stand/canopy from a pet store for even $350-$500'ish, would it be built that solidly and strong? NO! Would the stores canopy's seam be hidden as well as you've done with your's? NO! Would it be as aesthetically appealing as your's? Nope.
The Birch ply was nice looking too
A cheap 75g stand and canopy that is more then the average in decoration and wood is easily $400 The problem with me buying one also is our house's wood work is more of a cherry red oak so oak color doesn't match and cherry is too dark. With the right stain i can make oak match very close. I could never buy a stand and have it match that close without it being custome made. Even then if I bought something It probably wouldn't have a big enough canopy
A cheap 75g stand and canopy that is more then the average in decoration and wood is easily $400 The problem with me buying one also is our house's wood work is more of a cherry red oak so oak color doesn't match and cherry is too dark. With the right stain i can make oak match very close. I could never buy a stand and have it match that close without it being custome made. Even then if I bought something It probably wouldn't have a big enough canopy
reefwick
New member
I've got a question... I'm in the planning phase of a 75 gallon tank/stand/canopy and I'm wondering do you need some kind of adjustable feet on the bottom for leveling? I understand that everything is leveled when you are building but what about afterwards when you have it in the house and start to fill the tank etc... Aren't you supposed to be checking if the tank is level through that process? Is this just a worry that isn't justifiable?
The reason I ask is because it seems that carpet/floor may give a little more 2 feet out from the wall than it would right up next to the wall. Or like in my basement where I want to put mine, It has very short (almost like indoor/outdoor carpet) over the concrete with little to no padding. I know for a fact that the floor isn't level in all places. So what i'm really trying to get at is did you put adjustable feet on the bottom? and can this be something that is added on for a different situation?
The reason I ask is because it seems that carpet/floor may give a little more 2 feet out from the wall than it would right up next to the wall. Or like in my basement where I want to put mine, It has very short (almost like indoor/outdoor carpet) over the concrete with little to no padding. I know for a fact that the floor isn't level in all places. So what i'm really trying to get at is did you put adjustable feet on the bottom? and can this be something that is added on for a different situation?
werew
New member
Reefwick,
Dont use "adjustable" feet to help with leveling your tank/stand. Reason being, this displaces a LOT of weight right on the "feet" themselves and could weaken the structural integrity of your stand.
What i use to level my tank/stand is a deck of plastic cards. I cut them to the width of the bottom of the stand that sits directly onto the floor and use these pieces as shims, 1rst shimming under the 4 corners of the stand.
Once the tank/stand is level, place more shims in between the 4 starting shim locations to help even out the displacement of weight. Keep shimming until the shims feel the same in "tightness" of fit. Also test for looseness of other shims for "over-shimming".
Also... your tank should be at least 1/2 way full of water prior to leveling it. I usually fill my tank 3/4 full with water, then wait 12-24 hours for the stand to shift and settle before shimming.
Dont use "adjustable" feet to help with leveling your tank/stand. Reason being, this displaces a LOT of weight right on the "feet" themselves and could weaken the structural integrity of your stand.
What i use to level my tank/stand is a deck of plastic cards. I cut them to the width of the bottom of the stand that sits directly onto the floor and use these pieces as shims, 1rst shimming under the 4 corners of the stand.
Once the tank/stand is level, place more shims in between the 4 starting shim locations to help even out the displacement of weight. Keep shimming until the shims feel the same in "tightness" of fit. Also test for looseness of other shims for "over-shimming".
Also... your tank should be at least 1/2 way full of water prior to leveling it. I usually fill my tank 3/4 full with water, then wait 12-24 hours for the stand to shift and settle before shimming.
I have contemplated a nice hydrulic piston but can't do anything till the lights are mounted to see where i can mount things too. The top does fold all the way up and will rest on the top of the canopy sticking straight up. It does need some sort of a prop so it doesn't crash on my head though
