90 AGA all set up what now Bertoni?

PatMayo

New member
Ok folks, I finally have the 90 AGA Megaflow set up. (Yesterday) First the set up. It's a 90 AGA with a 30 gallon sump, 100 cs euro-reef skimmer. I have the coralife light on it with 2 x 150 MH plus 2 ea. 96 watt dual atinic. Plus the lunar light. (I don't like the color of the lunar lights, too blue.) I also have 100 pounds of argomax, (sp), as the substrate. I used 100 percent RO/DI water that had a TDS of zero. New Typhoon III ro/di system.

Anyway it now has 50 pounds of cured live rock. My local "Reef" store and been curing it for 20 days. It smells ok and looks pretty good. I couple of strings hanging on but thats about it.

4 ea. Mj 1200 powerheads on a random timer.

I have the 46 that is in my sig. Excellent coralline algae growth and the 46 has been set up for 170 or so days. The 46 is coming down. It has about 40 to 45 pounds of real nice rock that is going to go into the 90. The 46 set up is zero everything including nitrates.

I have taken some of the CC substrate and added it to the 90 in two places behind the rock. The new substrate really looks nice so I hid the CC. I also put a few picees of live rock rubble and some of the CC substrate in the sump as well. I plan on putting cheto or something similar in the sump. I have the light as well.

I plan on moving the 2 damsels in the 46 back to the LFS and the 2 clowns are going into the 90. I plan this to be a mixed reef, very few fish and no sps. Very few corals but I want what I do have to grow well.

Here is my question, do I have to add some shrimp or some other sustance to "do a cycle" or because I seeded the tank with excellent bio stuff, the 46, can I just add the live rock from my 46 and let her rip?

What is the correct way to proceed. I have plenty of patience and nor am I in any hurry.

What is next?

Regards,

Pat
 
Don't add anything to create a cycle, the rock should take care of that. Even if it's cured there was some die off during transport. I do add small amounts of food when cycling to feed the pods and worms, but that's probably not necessary.

Just leave the 90 running and test for ammonia. If there is ammonia you'll need to let it cycle. If there is no cycle, in a couple of weeks you're ready to move stuff from the other tank.
 
Thanks guys!

I was thinking along those same lines but I thought I would double check with the experts just to make sure.

I have another question if you don't mind. I have limited room in the stand and I really have to make this set up as self contained as possible. The garage is too far away so there is really no way to run "lines" from the tank to the garage.

I am assuming that I will have to dose Calcium, alk in one form or another. What method would you guys recommend based on my limited space and the fact that this tank is in the family room. (certain restrictions by the better half)

This aspect of the tank is my weak area.

Regards,

Pat
 
My set-up is almost exactly like yours. I am currently using a two part additive but intend to begin a kalk drip shortly. I have a tall cabinet next to my tank with all of my supplies and I have a Kent Aquadose that I set on top of it. Currently it just adds make-up water which lasts for four days. Someday I may add an auto top off but like you my tank is in the family room and I will have to set up some kind of holding tank for the RO water. My calcium has been steady in the 420 range.
 
Well, I like usin a kalk drip because it's cheap and low overhead. I have the system tuned enough that I can go on vacation for a week and the kalk drip will keep Ca and alkalinity in the good zone, as well as provide all the topoff water.

You might be able to dose the 2-part automatically as well. I've seen some setups that claim to do it.

A calcium reactor can be pretty small, and can last a week easily without tuning as well. The pressurized CO2 canister should tied down, IMO. I'm not sure I'd be happy to have small kids near that setup, though. I haven't tried one yet since lime works so well for me.
 
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