90 Gal reef for the girls.

[reefkoi]

I would start filling it soon, it will take several days to fill with RO. I think as soon as the caulk skins over it will be fine and could be handled within 24 hours easilly.
I'm sure when you have siliconed bulk's before you have ran water through them shortly after right?
C

 

[Huhhhhh]

I started playing around with the lights tonight when I got home from work. I needed to cut a slot in the side of the canopy for the light cords to stick through. The compression fittings that hold the cords in stick out about 1 inch to far and would not let the fixture fit in the canopy.

I thought if I flipped the compression fittings around I may be able to gain enough room to fit it in.

Once I got that done and everything rewired I started thinking I need to put a fan on the outside of the canopy right where the cords are. This would not work unless I build a box to set the fan about 1 inch off the surface of the side. The cords would still be running out the side of the hood and hit the fan blades if I mounted it to the side of the hood.

So now I'm thinking I can drill three new holes in the top of the light fixture and run the cords out the top of the canopy. This will let me cut the holes and surface mount the fans without any power cords in the way.
I disconnected all the wires again

and made a template on a sticky paper using the existing side mount as a guide.

Then I stuck the sticky where I wanted to drill the new holes and did that.

Man I love my Unibit.

 

[Huhhhhh]

I got all the compression fitting remounted and rewired and did a test fit to the slot I cut in the top of the canopy, and what do you know, it fits pretty good.

I got a smokin' deal on some fans at OEM. All the single one's were $10 or more. The good ones were pushing $20 plus. I saw this fan panel unmarked and asked the guy how much would 4 of these fans be. He said I could not take four off of it I'd have to buy the whole thing. OK, "how much" I asked. he said "$7. each times 8" , I said "done". I now have more than enough and some backups in case the ones on the 125 take a dump.

And last but not least, I finished the plumbing to the 90 tonight and shot the first 30 gal up to it.

It's about time huh. I'll be in Grand Junction all day tomorrow and should have another 30 gal ready to go by the time I get back. So with a little luck i should have everything cranking by Sun night.

 

[reefkoi]

Wow that last one is seriously the money shot I have been waiting months for
Now I hope you slept on the way back from G.J. and are ready to have this thing circulating tonight.
Call me later if you do, I want to see it all flowing.
Christo

 

[murfman]

I'm telling y'all, the icecap variable speed fans are the way to go. Russ will chime in here. I keep some spare 'puter fans for backups but they tend to freeze up in less than a year. Are you having them push/pull? Pull/pull? Icecap recommends that they all pull in fresh air and exhaust out the canopy.

 

[Huhhhhh]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10432974#post10432974 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by murfman
I'm telling y'all, the icecap variable speed fans are the way to go. Russ will chime in here. I keep some spare 'puter fans for backups but they tend to freeze up in less than a year. Are you having them push/pull? Pull/pull? Icecap recommends that they all pull in fresh air and exhaust out the canopy.

I've had three computer fans on my 125 for at least 12 years now and they are still going strong. The Hamilton top box I'm running came with one pushing and one pulling. I put in the third on one side pushing.

That is a good question though. Should I put them pushing or push and pull?

For the two that are going to line up with the center HQI chamber I think I want a push pull situation because there is no where for the air to escape if I'm pushing in both sides.

For the two I'm mounting below the other two I guess pushing both won't hurt anything since I have a 6 inch gap in the back that will let the air escape.

I do like the Ice cap fans with the temp controller but they are $$$$$. Maybe I'll hit the up nerds at Radio Shack and pick their brains about making a temp controller. I was thinking about plugging the fans into the timer for the HQI's so they would only run when the lights are on.

 

[Demeter]

i've got a 8" lasko fan on a timer with the lights - keeps the tank around 79-80 degrees - works pretty well

 

[murfman]

Before the icecaps, I ran my fans on the same time as the MH bulbs. It is interesting, I had a push/pull combination and the side that drew air from the water side always died on me. I am sure the humid, salt air had something to do with them. Computer fans use cheap bearings in them. Two of the fans I have as back ups run right off of 110V ac, no need to mess with power packs.

 

[Deuce67]

Yah, I like theses Icecap fans. I havent got them mounted in yet since they are for the 150. I did test them. Im pretty happy with them. But I wouldnt have gotten them if I didnt get a deal on them though. I also got a Reefkeeper too. I tell you what, that I do have on my 90 and its a great little device. It can control your heaters and fans(even a chiller) and have timers for the lights.

 

[reefkoi]

Those ReefKeepers are cool. The key is to buy them early on before buying a ph meter, timers, wavemakers e.t.c.
Otherwise you get so much stuff that you end up feeling bad for dumping it all for a controller. You'll have the only one around here I think Russ. If they were capable of running the high wattage stuff I have I would love one myself.

The coolest part is getting a wireless router hooked up and actually checking up on your tank via your cellphone or laptop when not home, that is worth it right there.

Chris

 

[Deuce67]

You can still run a Reefkeeper or better yet a AC III will prolly suite your needs. Just need some relays to open or close the circuit. Even a bunch of X10s for a wireless approach.

 

[Deuce67]

LOL! I just looked at the specs of the X10s. Wont work with your lights or chiller. Only capable of 500Ws or 1/3 HP motor. But you can still do the relays and such. Just need some good planning.

 

[reefkoi]

Yeah that's what I was talking about. It would still be cool for the ph,salinity, and web monitoring. I could also use it for data logging and such.
It's just a bummer about no lighting or chill control.
When they start making heavy duty versions for large systems then I'll jump I think.
C

 

[Deuce67]

Even with your high wattage lights and chiller, it still can be done with some relays or contactors.

 

[reefkoi]

ok I was wondering about that. I think I'll see what everybody has out at macna, maybe something new will be out. I'll ask the reps about relays or something.

 

[Huhhhhh]

I tried to wrap up all the cutting I needed to do on the canopy today and get it all painted. I got rained out on the painting but got all the cutting done. I had to cut some slots to slide out the bulb shields to replace bulbs when needed.

The light fixture fits in there pretty good.

I hope the fans keep it cool. It probably wasn't meant to be put in a box like this.

We got all the water, sand, and rock in the 90 and it's running now.

Amazing there are no leaks. The DIY overflow box seems to be working very well.

I have the ball valve on the Hammerhead about 3/4 open. I'm not to happy with the flow coming out the eight 3/4 inch loc-line openings. There's not very much pressure so I may put some nozzles on the end to create more pressure so the flow can at least reach the rocks. I'm waiting for the RODI to make about 20 more gallons so I can open the fuge ball valve and start the water flowing through that.

 

[reefkoi]

Sweet, I got to see it all last night!
Can't wait to see the lights on and fish swimming.
The cool thing is you can add stuff right away, no 2 week cycle, no nasty algae issues (hopefully)
I love the open look and everything being black, its a very classy looking setup.
I agree with the output issue, I think a Hammerhead needs around 6 return outlets at full bore, you are pumping up 14 feet roughly and you have it valved down 3/4 of the way.
I think if you could get the overflow to somehow handle that hammer wide open you'd be fine. I dont know what to suggest though, maybe the fuge will help draw enough.
C

 

[murfman]

Could always step down to a Dart and open that one up full throttel.

 

[reefkoi]

The Dart would shut off before even getting water up to the second floor. Check the pump curve on them Murf, a Dart is way to small for this application.
Chris

 

[Huhhhhh]

I went to fill the fuge tonight and was pleased at the flow my little scoop provided. I'm glad I put the ball valve there because it will flow way to much left wide open.

Now I have a problem I can't figure out. The outlet that drains to the 125 is a bubble making beast. I can't figure out how to eliminate them. I tried a elbow pointed down but the level in the output side drops until it sucks air.

If I vent it in any way to keep the sucking noise down it draws air.

Is this the reason I've never seen anyone do a gravity feed setup like this?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.