90-gallon getting back into the hobby tank...
- Thread starter Entropy
- Start date
Awesome. Check you my build thread. It started in October 2022 and I still don't have the tank in place 
Woot woot!
wvned
Well-known member
Go to Home Depot. Buy a gallon of Muriatic acid. Put 3-4 inches of water in the tank and add a cup of the acid. Get a bottle brush and dip it in the water and spread it over the glass and then scrub it a bit. Every bit of that white stuff will dissolve.
Pour it down the drain or neutralize it with baking soda or let it sit for 2-3 days and it will dissipate. You can smell when it is gone.
If you get some on you it will burn a bit but just run water over your skin or wear some gloves. Now that I have old thin skin it hurts more. It never even burned when I was younger. Aging sucks big time.
Muriatic acid is dilute hydrochloric acid. It will work much faster since it a strong acid as opposed to vinegar or citric acid.
Strong acids are those that completely dissociate into their ions when dissolved in water, meaning virtually 100% of the acid molecules ionize to produce hydrogen ions (H⁺, typically as hydronium ions, H₃O⁺) and their corresponding anions.
Use new bulkheads. The gaskets get hard and don't seal good on older ones.
Pour it down the drain or neutralize it with baking soda or let it sit for 2-3 days and it will dissipate. You can smell when it is gone.
If you get some on you it will burn a bit but just run water over your skin or wear some gloves. Now that I have old thin skin it hurts more. It never even burned when I was younger. Aging sucks big time.
Muriatic acid is dilute hydrochloric acid. It will work much faster since it a strong acid as opposed to vinegar or citric acid.
Strong acids are those that completely dissociate into their ions when dissolved in water, meaning virtually 100% of the acid molecules ionize to produce hydrogen ions (H⁺, typically as hydronium ions, H₃O⁺) and their corresponding anions.
Use new bulkheads. The gaskets get hard and don't seal good on older ones.
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Going to HD today to get material for the stand, so I added it to the list, thanks!
Going slow, obviously, but there is so much I have to figure out. The list is pretty long.
Build Stand and Canopy
RO unit
Salt
Bulkheads
Powerheads
Return pump(s)
Light(s)
Sump
Plumbing (return lines, drains, etc.)
Rock
Sand
Starboard or Eggcrate
Heater(s)
Controller
Refractometer or salinity meter
Test kits
Filter Sock(s)
Magfloat(s)
And I have to figure out what to choose on all of those... Yay me!
Going slow, obviously, but there is so much I have to figure out. The list is pretty long.
Build Stand and Canopy
RO unit
Salt
Bulkheads
Powerheads
Return pump(s)
Light(s)
Sump
Plumbing (return lines, drains, etc.)
Rock
Sand
Starboard or Eggcrate
Heater(s)
Controller
Refractometer or salinity meter
Test kits
Filter Sock(s)
Magfloat(s)
And I have to figure out what to choose on all of those... Yay me!
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Well, it is not perfect, but it is at the "exceeds expectations" range of my skills. I talked to a couple of engineers (pictured) and they said I would be fine using the left over 2x6's from the garage, so I only needed to buy five 2x4's. The floor in my office is textured tile (i.e.: not flat) so I am thinking about using 1/2 XPS rigid foam board under the stand to soak up the irregularities. Stand might be a tad bit overbuilt...
100 years from now…the house will be gone but the tank stand will still be there. 
Looks good!
Looks good!
wvned
Well-known member
I see plywood on the top and bottom. I would remove it. Is the stand built to fit the size of the tank? The plywood on the bottom will be soft and interfere with shimming the bottom of the stand to level the tank if necessary.
How is the plywood on the top retained. You dont want metal fasteners under the edge of the tank.
How is the plywood on the top retained. You dont want metal fasteners under the edge of the tank.
Yeah, the 2x6 stand perimeter is the same size as the plastic frame on the tank (36.5"x24.5"). I used counter sunk deck screws on 3/8 plywood. I had all this stuff laying around in the garage. My plan is to use 1/2" rigid XPS foam (the pink stuff) under the tank. The frame is 3/8" so I should not have to worry about the foam touching the bottom glass and the foam should even out any slop in the stand and tank frame. I could just remove the ply and go right onto the 2x6 frame, but I am a little worried it is not even all the way around. I was going to seal the bottom with caulk and paint to catch and spilled water. I planned to put the stand on a piece of the same foam to account for the texture in my floor tile.
I guess I have some more research to do
I guess I have some more research to do
wvned
Well-known member
Have you checked the top with a straightedge. I have a 4 foot aluminum level I use.
55 gallon stand
I rebuilt this stand and it has a 75 gallon tank on it now.
180 gallon stand
The piece in the bottom would be better inset and installed as a shelf in the bottom. If it is flimsy you can add cross braces as needed. If you really want to cover the top I would use a piece of 3/4 marine plywood glued on. I have no idea what that foam product will do when compressed with 600 pounds on thin edges. You do not want screw heads under the tank edges.
The foam idea is mainly to accommodate slight imperfections (think 1/16 inch or less) and typically a yoga mat type material is used. If there is a hump the foam will NOT make up for it.
I used a belt sander to make it the top flat for the 180.
I am not a carpenter. These stands are all built using the same ideas you used for yours. I did use a pocket screw jig on the 180 so there are no screw heads on the outside.
The 240 has a stand from Custom. Aquariums who also made the tank..
55 gallon stand
I rebuilt this stand and it has a 75 gallon tank on it now.
180 gallon stand
The piece in the bottom would be better inset and installed as a shelf in the bottom. If it is flimsy you can add cross braces as needed. If you really want to cover the top I would use a piece of 3/4 marine plywood glued on. I have no idea what that foam product will do when compressed with 600 pounds on thin edges. You do not want screw heads under the tank edges.
The foam idea is mainly to accommodate slight imperfections (think 1/16 inch or less) and typically a yoga mat type material is used. If there is a hump the foam will NOT make up for it.
I used a belt sander to make it the top flat for the 180.
I am not a carpenter. These stands are all built using the same ideas you used for yours. I did use a pocket screw jig on the 180 so there are no screw heads on the outside.
The 240 has a stand from Custom. Aquariums who also made the tank..
wvned
Well-known member
I have never used starboard in a tank bottom. The 240 has some really big rocks in there.
RO - a 4 stage. If you have well water then what you need will depend on what's in the water.
Controller - Hydros all the way.
Pumps and powerheads - Jebao. Used to be Cheap junk. Now as good as any made anywhere. The DC return pumps have been exceptional for me. Want a warranty? Look at Simplicity pumps from Premium Aquatics. I have lots of both of these kinds running and have never had any issues at all. No dead controllers from power outages or stalled pumps that wont restart.
Heaters. I like Eheim Jagers. I have used them forever. Cheap to buy. The Hydros can control them.
Bulkheads can be found in all styles at BRS
All my plumbing is standard stuff from Home Depot. HD has flex PVC too. If you want gate valves and they are nice to have BRS has them. BRS used to be as cheap as anyone on pricing. This isnt so true anymore. A lot of my stuff like 2part, kalk, bio pellets, etc., is coming from eBay.
Bulk Reef Supply has a lot of info on everything reefing. From new tank setup to equipment reviews.
Learning Center - Bulk Reef Supply
A lot of things come down to personal preference. I find no value in color matching plumbing and fancy controller cabinets. I dont even fasten the wires neatly any more.
A sump can be anything from an old tank with baffles glued in made with salvage glass you cut yourself to a super expensive plastic box.
Filter anything, socks or roller mats. I don't use them. I am a skimmer guy. Other people on here are other kinds of stuff people.
Lights - They sky is the limit here. It totally depends on how much you want to spend. I think the expensive ones are better and easier to use. I dont have them though.
Refractometers of salinity meters. I am still a deep 6 swing arm hydrometer guy. The lowest scum of the earth. Total junk, hard to use, inaccurate. LOL whatever. I also have a Pinpoint salinity meter. I used it to calibrate the hydrometer and draw a line on it with a sharpie.
Never used much again.
Test kits - Salifert or Hanna digital. You need ALK, Ca, Mg, Nitrate and Phosphate. Gee I didn't say ammonia. If you start with some live rock you dont need that and will never use it again. I used the API one (screaming heard in background). It will tell you what you need to know.
Magnetic cleaners. There are lots of good ones now and Magfloat is still around. I use and like a Flipper and Tunze.
Rock. I use some TBS live rock shipped to the airport and some man made stuff. 1/2 and 1/2. You can find used as well if you live in civalization.
and that's all I have to say about that. Channeling my inner Forest Gump who I have more and more in common with as time goes on.
RO - a 4 stage. If you have well water then what you need will depend on what's in the water.
Controller - Hydros all the way.
Pumps and powerheads - Jebao. Used to be Cheap junk. Now as good as any made anywhere. The DC return pumps have been exceptional for me. Want a warranty? Look at Simplicity pumps from Premium Aquatics. I have lots of both of these kinds running and have never had any issues at all. No dead controllers from power outages or stalled pumps that wont restart.
Heaters. I like Eheim Jagers. I have used them forever. Cheap to buy. The Hydros can control them.
Bulkheads can be found in all styles at BRS
All my plumbing is standard stuff from Home Depot. HD has flex PVC too. If you want gate valves and they are nice to have BRS has them. BRS used to be as cheap as anyone on pricing. This isnt so true anymore. A lot of my stuff like 2part, kalk, bio pellets, etc., is coming from eBay.
Bulk Reef Supply has a lot of info on everything reefing. From new tank setup to equipment reviews.
Learning Center - Bulk Reef Supply
A lot of things come down to personal preference. I find no value in color matching plumbing and fancy controller cabinets. I dont even fasten the wires neatly any more.
A sump can be anything from an old tank with baffles glued in made with salvage glass you cut yourself to a super expensive plastic box.
Filter anything, socks or roller mats. I don't use them. I am a skimmer guy. Other people on here are other kinds of stuff people.
Lights - They sky is the limit here. It totally depends on how much you want to spend. I think the expensive ones are better and easier to use. I dont have them though.
Refractometers of salinity meters. I am still a deep 6 swing arm hydrometer guy. The lowest scum of the earth. Total junk, hard to use, inaccurate. LOL whatever. I also have a Pinpoint salinity meter. I used it to calibrate the hydrometer and draw a line on it with a sharpie.
Never used much again.
Test kits - Salifert or Hanna digital. You need ALK, Ca, Mg, Nitrate and Phosphate. Gee I didn't say ammonia. If you start with some live rock you dont need that and will never use it again. I used the API one (screaming heard in background). It will tell you what you need to know.
Magnetic cleaners. There are lots of good ones now and Magfloat is still around. I use and like a Flipper and Tunze.
Rock. I use some TBS live rock shipped to the airport and some man made stuff. 1/2 and 1/2. You can find used as well if you live in civalization.
and that's all I have to say about that. Channeling my inner Forest Gump who I have more and more in common with as time goes on.
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