A ~19,000 Gallon Aquarium

for the time being he is just planning on stocking it with local fish and coral. Since the livestock is from the local waters i wouldn't think UV would be needed since the tank livestock would have already been exposed to whatever is in the water anyway.
 
nahham also see you did decide to go with the "ramp" between the fuge and display:thumbsup:
Have you decided on what algae/plants are going into the fuge? With one that size you could get some full blown mangroves going in there.
 
nahham also see you did decide to go with the "ramp" between the fuge and display:thumbsup:
Have you decided on what algae/plants are going into the fuge? With one that size you could get some full blown mangroves going in there.

Yeah the ramp seemed like the best alternative. I still don't know what will be in the refugium, and as usual I'm open to suggestions :)

The mangroves will be a good idea and I have easy access to full grown mangroves which makes it sound even better. :)
 
Great project Nahham. I have a few suggestions and I hope you take them as constructive. I'm sorry if they come a little late, but hopefully they are of use to others following the thread.

You should look at sun shades to keep the tank cool and block harmful UV rays. There is a shade cloth on the market called "Chromatinet Blue" that filters out the far red spectrum and allows blue light to transmit through. The sun is 6,500 Kelvin degrees colour temperature, but with the blue shade cloth, you yield 20,000 kelvin degrees. This will simulate the light conditions of a deeper reef so you can keep a wider variety of corals. http://www.signaturesupplyonline.com/

I see you have used an epoxy coating already, so my advice is a little late, but a crystalizing agent such as Xypex or Penetron is the most effective method of sealing the concrete. You coat it once, and never have to worry about paint failure or sulphide attack from exposure to salt water in the future. These products can be an admixture that you add to the concrete slurry as well as a final coat. It goes on like watery cement and it crystalizes in the cement pore matrix through a capillary action. The cement is not only water-proof, but much stronger.
http://www.xypex.com/
http://www.penetron.com/

If you do any more cement work, you should add 10% silica fume or micro-silica for strength, sulphide protection, and water-proofing throughout. See if they have any bags left over from the Burj Khalifa :)
http://www.concrete.elkem.com/

I also noticed that you didn't use very much rebar on the walls. Traditionally concrete tanks get a substantial amount of rebar to tie in the structure. You need to use a concrete vibrator probe to fill all of the voids with conventional concrete tank construction. The wall thickness (27 cm) you used is good though.

As far as water movement goes, the most efficient method by far is air lifts. You have the option of using a windmill to directly power an air pump, or you could use solar or wind power to generate electricity to do so.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUkISu56sbU&feature=related

Your tank is too big for an air driven reverse Carlson surge device in my opinion, but you should do some research on them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSE51nTR2OA

When you build a large concrete tank with windows, the viewing panel thickness is less significant than that of an all glass tank because the glass is pushed against a rubber gasket or silicone joint, so it doesn't get the joint/seam stress that a conventional aquarium would have. The problem arrises when you have a long viewing panel as the stress on the glass increases with length (bowing). Your viewing panel isn't supported at the top, so strength is dramatically reduced and stress is increased with the bow. I suggest a steel support along the length of the glass at the top. I know it detracts from the clean look, but it's better than adding more concrete up there.

I prefer to work with acrylic viewing panels for large projects, so I don't have any experience with laminated glass outdoors in your climate. You need to make sure moisture doesn't infiltrate the laminate or it will get foggy, starting from the edges. I have seen this many times in public aquariums. I realize it is very dry where you are, but the high heat during the day and cool evenings will cause the glass to expand and contract. This is why the silicone seam needs to be at least 3 cm thick.

Here's a picture of the rebar that goes into a 215 cm (7') tall concrete tank.
 

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Great project Nahham. I have a few suggestions and I hope you take them as constructive. I'm sorry if they come a little late, but hopefully they are of use to others following the thread.

I consider this a community build so any suggestions, comments, or even critic is good by me. A lot of issues will arise and I will take everyone's opinion into consideration. However, understandably, it would not be possible to incorporate all the ideas, at least not at the beginning.

You should look at sun shades to keep the tank cool and block harmful UV rays. There is a shade cloth on the market called "Chromatinet Blue" that filters out the far red spectrum and allows blue light to transmit through. The sun is 6,500 Kelvin degrees colour temperature, but with the blue shade cloth, you yield 20,000 kelvin degrees. This will simulate the light conditions of a deeper reef so you can keep a wider variety of corals. http://www.signaturesupplyonline.com/

I really like the shade material and will be in touch with the manufacturer. I do have a problem of how to cover the tank while still allowing access to the over-the-tank seating area. Unless of course I decide it should be a big shade that is 4 - 5 meters high. Can't think of a way right now, had a pretty busy day, maybe later .. :)

I see you have used an epoxy coating already, so my advice is a little late, but a crystalizing agent such as Xypex or Penetron is the most effective method of sealing the concrete. You coat it once, and never have to worry about paint failure or sulphide attack from exposure to salt water in the future. These products can be an admixture that you add to the concrete slurry as well as a final coat. It goes on like watery cement and it crystalizes in the cement pore matrix through a capillary action. The cement is not only water-proof, but much stronger.
http://www.xypex.com/
http://www.penetron.com/

If you do any more cement work, you should add 10% silica fume or micro-silica for strength, sulphide protection, and water-proofing throughout. See if they have any bags left over from the Burj Khalifa :)
http://www.concrete.elkem.com/

I also noticed that you didn't use very much rebar on the walls. Traditionally concrete tanks get a substantial amount of rebar to tie in the structure. You need to use a concrete vibrator probe to fill all of the voids with conventional concrete tank construction. The wall thickness (27 cm) you used is good though.


The concrete we used was a marine-grade concrete is usually used as barriers and such, the epoxy was an additional step in ensuring there will be no leakage, but not a necessary one. I just wanted to color :D

I'm not sure which photo you looked at, but all of the walls had the same amount of rebar you have in the photo in the corner throughout the concrete. We went the traditional way for that. I personally believe it is a bit too much but then I'm not an engineer.

As far as water movement goes, the most efficient method by far is air lifts. You have the option of using a windmill to directly power an air pump, or you could use solar or wind power to generate electricity to do so.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUkISu56sbU&feature=related

Your tank is too big for an air driven reverse Carlson surge device in my opinion, but you should do some research on them.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSE51nTR2OA

I am liking the air lift thingy :D Do you have any more information regarding that?

When you build a large concrete tank with windows, the viewing panel thickness is less significant than that of an all glass tank because the glass is pushed against a rubber gasket or silicone joint, so it doesn't get the joint/seam stress that a conventional aquarium would have. The problem arises when you have a long viewing panel as the stress on the glass increases with length (bowing). Your viewing panel isn't supported at the top, so strength is dramatically reduced and stress is increased with the bow. I suggest a steel support along the length of the glass at the top. I know it detracts from the clean look, but it's better than adding more concrete up there.

I prefer to work with acrylic viewing panels for large projects, so I don't have any experience with laminated glass outdoors in your climate. You need to make sure moisture doesn't infiltrate the laminate or it will get foggy, starting from the edges. I have seen this many times in public aquariums. I realize it is very dry where you are, but the high heat during the day and cool evenings will cause the glass to expand and contract. This is why the silicone seam needs to be at least 3 cm thick.

Here's a picture of the rebar that goes into a 215 cm (7') tall concrete tank.

I left the glass design to the glass people, and I have a 10 year guarantee on it. He ensures me that having the glass-bar on top is good enough. Again, I don't know anything about it.

Finally, thank you very much for the information and links. It would of been great if you came by a couple of months ago, a lot might of changed in the design. Ah well, maybe I will contact you directly when I build the in-the-house one, that that will be huge as well ;)
 
Can you grow grass there?


Now this is the weirdest question I've gotten thus far :)

If you mean the type of grass that is used as land covering then yes we can and do. It needs a lot of water though.

If you mean the type you roll and smoke then I don't know if we can but we certainly won't :D
 
If you mean the type you roll and smoke then I don't know if we can but we certainly won't :D
From what I've read about drug laws in the UAE*, that sounds like a very wise decision.

*Possession of very small quantities carries a minimum four year prison sentence, and there's been at least one death-penalty case involving possession with intent to sell.
 
Air lifts can be as simple as a pressure rated air pump with diffusers that lift water from the bottom to the surface for oxygenation, or a 2" PVC pipe with an elbow on the top and an airline running to the bottom. As air rises, it draws in water and brings it to the surface. It's a much more efficient method of gas-exchange than horizontal water flow from a water pump, but they both have their merits.

Air blowers are cost effective to run, but they don't push air deeper than about a metre. A piston pump would be better suited for the pressure requirement, but they are noisy. A compressor will also work, but again not very relaxing to hear when you are enjoying the view.

This windmill will move water from the ocean to your display tank. http://www.airliftech.com/ You could have it on a constant feed and you will have no need for nutrient export methods such as protein skimming, carbon, or a refugium.

Here is a windmill that will run an airlift for circulation. There are many on the market, this one just came up on the first page and it has a diagram of an airlift pipe like the one I mentioned. http://www.koenderswindmills.com/Koenders_Windmills_AirDr.html

You mentioned mangroves before; they make a really nice display as a separate water garden, but they are not very efficient water cleaners as they grow very slowly. If you raise and lower the water level daily, the mangroves will grow the "legs" they are famous for. Seagrass would be a more efficient method.

If you have a high bacteria, parasite, & free floating algae (phytoplankton) count in your local water, then you may have to first store the water and hyperchlorinate (bleach) it. You can dechlorinate it with sodium thiosulphate or with an airlift (off-gassing). A pool chlorine test kit will give you accurate readings to assure you are adding enough to sterilize the water and removing the chlorine before it is added to the tank.

Be careful with the shade cloth design. There is no problem with mounting it high above the tank, but be careful it doesn't become a giant kite and fly away into the desert :) You may want to look into a partial greenhouse structure that has ridge vents at the top to allow heat to escape. These are powered by a piston that is activated by an oil that is heated up by the sun when it gets to hot (zero operating cost). The metal structure of a greenhouse with no poly-plastic side walls will hold your shade cloth in place on the windiest days.

Good to hear about the concrete. I guess it is a common material in your area.

As far as filtration goes, I would use only water changes (providing the incoming water is good) and ozone. A 5-10 gram per hour unit will kill pathogens (bacteria & parasites) as well as unwanted algae blooms. You can set it up on a redox controller so it only comes on when you need it and it shuts off before you get harmful residual ozone. You can use ozone with the airlifts. Ozonation of the seawater as it enters your system is another good idea. They don't draw much electricity and run very efficiently on dry air which you should have lots of :)

If you build a wall or structure to cast a shadow on the viewing panels, they will grow less algae (less cleaning), it will minimize glare, and the display tank will look more dramatic.

Do you have some kind of protection against sand damaging the tank when the wind blows? My wife & I went out on ATV's and camels in Egypt last year and she ruined her eye glasses in a couple of days. Lesson learned, don't mess with natures sandblaster :(

Here is a drawing of how you could use a simple air & ozone system for disease control, water quality management, and water flow dynamics.
 

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Re: A ~19,000 Gallon Aquarium

Cool I get the wierd question award! I was refering to land covering. The sketch up makes the pool/aquarium/playground area look grassy. Did not know if that was the intention.
 
Air lifts can be as simple as a pressure rated air pump with diffusers that lift water from the bottom to the surface for oxygenation, or a 2" PVC pipe with an elbow on the top and an airline running to the bottom. As air rises, it draws in water and brings it to the surface. It's a much more efficient method of gas-exchange than horizontal water flow from a water pump, but they both have their merits.

Air blowers are cost effective to run, but they don't push air deeper than about a metre. A piston pump would be better suited for the pressure requirement, but they are noisy. A compressor will also work, but again not very relaxing to hear when you are enjoying the view.

I think depth is not a real problem since the aquarium is only 1.4m deep. Maybe I can integrate something like this in the tank...

Do you have some kind of protection against sand damaging the tank when the wind blows? My wife & I went out on ATV's and camels in Egypt last year and she ruined her eye glasses in a couple of days. Lesson learned, don't mess with natures sandblaster :(

Yeah we do and its called plastic covering :). There is no other solution for that. We don't get it that bad around here though, but there will be a contingency in place ..

Thank you for all the other information, I'm glad you can through and decided to participate, and stay on for the rest of the ride :)
 
Cool I get the wierd question award! I was refering to land covering. The sketch up makes the pool/aquarium/playground area look grassy. Did not know if that was the intention.

Come on, you have to admit it could of been understood either way :D

We can definitely grow grass there, but I don't think this is the current plan. I believe that the landscaping will incorporate local plants that is low maintenance as well.
 
Thank you for all the other information, I'm glad you can through and decided to participate, and stay on for the rest of the ride :)

Sorry if the information was a little late. This is a huge forum so even very interesting threads like yours can get buried. There are a lot of people on here in the aquarium industry who will be happy to assist you. We have a good community here. "H2o Engineering" is an active member on here who works with large systems in public aquariums. He's the only one I know with experience installing large prop pumps. He's also keen on air-drive systems. I'll send him a PM about your thread.

Someone mentioned LFS's in UAE that supply premium equipment. This one in Qatar looks like it can compete with Elos as far as aesthetics go. http://www.aquaart.com.qa/
 
If you want to protect your glass against sand damage, apply a layer of plastic film. You can use a clear version of the window tinting material. You may be able to source it through an auto customizing shop. Here is an example. http://www.apexfilms.ca/toronto-clear-window-films.htm

The layer works like a sacrificial "skin". Once it begins to pit after a few years, simply remove it and add a new layer. Forget opening an aquarium store in the UAE, I'm opening a window guard store :)

This kind of sacrificial barrier works well with acrylic as acrylic is infamous for scratching easily. I designed a 35,000 gallon shark pool with a 30mm clear acrylic viewing platform above it. We used 0.3mm Lexan (polycarbonate) as a top layer to protect it from stiletto heals and tap dancing shoes, or whatever the general public can give it. The exhibit is delayed due to building permit issues, so I can't report on how long it lasts but Lexan is literally bulletproof. The front panel is a single piece 800cm long x 220cm high x 10cm thick. It weighs 1,100 kilos. I just hope it fits through the door :) The film I recommended is a DIY product and it will offer more clarity and is more cost effective than Lexan (polycarbonate).
 
If you want to protect your glass against sand damage, apply a layer of plastic film. You can use a clear version of the window tinting material. You may be able to source it through an auto customizing shop. Here is an example. http://www.apexfilms.ca/toronto-clear-window-films.htm

The layer works like a sacrificial "skin". Once it begins to pit after a few years, simply remove it and add a new layer. Forget opening an aquarium store in the UAE, I'm opening a window guard store :)

This kind of sacrificial barrier works well with acrylic as acrylic is infamous for scratching easily. I designed a 35,000 gallon shark pool with a 30mm clear acrylic viewing platform above it. We used 0.3mm Lexan (polycarbonate) as a top layer to protect it from stiletto heals and tap dancing shoes, or whatever the general public can give it. The exhibit is delayed due to building permit issues, so I can't report on how long it lasts but Lexan is literally bulletproof. The front panel is a single piece 800cm long x 220cm high x 10cm thick. It weighs 1,100 kilos. I just hope it fits through the door :) The film I recommended is a DIY product and it will offer more clarity and is more cost effective than Lexan (polycarbonate).

I believe that glass is harder to scratch that acrylic but then extra protection is always good (in everything). :)

Those dimensions are amazing.. hmmm maybe the next project :D
 
Hello everyone,

I couldn't find any ideas/plans for a surge device for large tanks. I am thinking maybe 2 surge devices on each side of the tank should do the trick.

What I have no idea about is the amount of flow. All what I saw was 5 gallon or so surge device, how can we scale this up? Any ideas? Illustrations will be great :)
 
A store in Atlanta, GA "Warehouse Aquarium" uses a 55 gallon plastic drum for their surge device in the coral pool (it is literally a pool, three thousand gallons). The barrel is up 10-15 feet and plumbed with 6" PVC. About every 5 minutes it surges and there is a TON of flow. Don't know if a 55g barrel would be enough for flow, but it should be easy enough to build to see.



Oh, and subscribed!
 
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With a surface area so large, surge devices are a challenge. If I remember correctly, the dump tank on the 65,000 gallon reef tank at the Georgia (USA) Aquarium is 6,000 gallons and it fills and dumps every few minutes.

A big surge will put a duty load (moving force) on your front glass. The calculations your glass installer used are for a static load (relatively still water). Some surge or dump devices are noisy and splash too much. You can custom order a surge device for your application from this company. http://www.oceansmotions.com/store/?osCsid=2c8ecfc8dff9e2aa472251cb7a70d3b7

You can see a video of a "Tsunami" wave device that they make here. http://www.oceansmotions.com/store/video/tsunami.wmv

You can do some research on "Carlson Surge Device". It is basically a header tank (reservoir above the display tank) with a siphon drain. There is also a "reverse Carlson device" that uses air to drive it. I think I may have posted a video of one earlier. Youtube has lots of videos, but mostly smal scale units. Your site may offer further options due to the free water source.

You really should get thorough water tests done on the local water. I know you have reports that the water is "very good", but if you plan on keeping corals you may need to add supplementary chemicals before new seawater is added. As I mentioned before you may need to bleach (chlorinate) the water or ozonate it before you add it to the display tank.
 
Hello everyone,

I couldn't find any ideas/plans for a surge device for large tanks. I am thinking maybe 2 surge devices on each side of the tank should do the trick.

What I have no idea about is the amount of flow. All what I saw was 5 gallon or so surge device, how can we scale this up? Any ideas? Illustrations will be great :)

Nahham, after seeing the sandstorms in UAE and especially that this tnak is near a lot of sand I would guess it's very important to cover the glass with a pretective sheet as mentioned. Maybe glass is more resistant to scratching than acrilic but it can be "sanded" (multiple tiny holes can appear after sand hitting glass at high speed. we always see that on cars glass and paint.
 
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