A ~19,000 Gallon Aquarium
- Thread starter nahham
- Start date
needyreefer
Active member
mdf166. . . we need update pics!
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
You should order some water test kits so you can monitor the tank yourself. The fisheries testing is great but you don't want to have to wait for them for results. You should buy the following...
1) Digital PH meter with probe cord (deep testing)
2) Digital dissolved oxygen meter with probe cord
3) Digital salinity meter
4) Refractometer for double checking salinity
5) Liquid ammonia test kit
6) Liquid chlorine test kit
7) Liquid nitrite test kit
8) Liquid nitrate test kit
9) Liquid calcium test kit (premium brand)
10) Liquid magnesium test kit (premium brand)
11) Liquid carbonate hardness test kit (premium brand)
12) Digital TDS meter for adding pure freshwater
13) Digital redox/ORP meter
At some point it time you should also start stocking up on chemicals to correct the parameters you are testing such as...
1) Hydrochloric acid (cleaning & lowering PH)
2) Calcium hydroxide (raising calcium & PH)
3) Calcium chloride (raising calcium)
4) Sodium carbonate (raising carbonate hardness & PH)
5) Sodium bicarbonate (raising carbonate hardness & lowering PH)
6) Peroxide (raising dissolved oxygen & redox)
7) Dry salt mix (raising salinity)
8) Sodium hypochlorite (sterilizing filters)
9) Sodium thiosulphate (neutralizing sodium hypochlorite)
10) Potassium permanganate (disinfecting corals & fish)
11) Lugols iodine (disinfecting corals & fish)
12) Formalin (treating fish parasites)
13) Malachite green (treating fish parasites)
14) Nitrofurazone (wide spectrum antibiotic)
15) Neomycin (wide spectrum antibiotic)
16) Isoniazid (fish TB treatment)
17) Quinacrine hydrochloride (protozoan treatment)
Even though you are running an open system, you should quarantine the fish you add as they are coming from different areas with unique parasites and bacteria. Prophylactic treatment before they are added to the tank will greatly reduce the chances of disease transmission. Make sure you add as many parasite cleaner fish and shrimp to the tank as possible.
1) Digital PH meter with probe cord (deep testing)
2) Digital dissolved oxygen meter with probe cord
3) Digital salinity meter
4) Refractometer for double checking salinity
5) Liquid ammonia test kit
6) Liquid chlorine test kit
7) Liquid nitrite test kit
8) Liquid nitrate test kit
9) Liquid calcium test kit (premium brand)
10) Liquid magnesium test kit (premium brand)
11) Liquid carbonate hardness test kit (premium brand)
12) Digital TDS meter for adding pure freshwater
13) Digital redox/ORP meter
At some point it time you should also start stocking up on chemicals to correct the parameters you are testing such as...
1) Hydrochloric acid (cleaning & lowering PH)
2) Calcium hydroxide (raising calcium & PH)
3) Calcium chloride (raising calcium)
4) Sodium carbonate (raising carbonate hardness & PH)
5) Sodium bicarbonate (raising carbonate hardness & lowering PH)
6) Peroxide (raising dissolved oxygen & redox)
7) Dry salt mix (raising salinity)
8) Sodium hypochlorite (sterilizing filters)
9) Sodium thiosulphate (neutralizing sodium hypochlorite)
10) Potassium permanganate (disinfecting corals & fish)
11) Lugols iodine (disinfecting corals & fish)
12) Formalin (treating fish parasites)
13) Malachite green (treating fish parasites)
14) Nitrofurazone (wide spectrum antibiotic)
15) Neomycin (wide spectrum antibiotic)
16) Isoniazid (fish TB treatment)
17) Quinacrine hydrochloride (protozoan treatment)
Even though you are running an open system, you should quarantine the fish you add as they are coming from different areas with unique parasites and bacteria. Prophylactic treatment before they are added to the tank will greatly reduce the chances of disease transmission. Make sure you add as many parasite cleaner fish and shrimp to the tank as possible.
nahham
New member
That's one (two) long lists you have there. I ordered the Profilux 3 Elite package which includes:
1 x Profilux 3EX
2 x PAB digital power bars
1 x temperature probe
1 x pH probe
1 x redox probe
1 x salinity probe
2 x optical sensors for ATO and AWC
1 x level control bracket
I saw the digital devices that the center for ocean research uses but I think they are only for salinity and dissolved oxygen. Are there anything in the market you know of that can do some of things I don't have digitally?
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
As I mentioned above, a second source for double checking salinity is a good cheap investment.
The dissolved oxygen meter is something you don't really need to use long term. It's just handy for finding out if you are getting a good gas exchange in the lower areas and in the rocks. You would use it while setting up your flow dynamics, checking influent seawater if it is held in a settling or sterilizing tank, and if you have problems with pumps in the future.
There are some new digital phosphate meters on the market now that are accurate and convenient, but the digital calcium meters etc. need to be constantly calibrated and end up being more work than liquid testing, especially if you don't trust the readings you get.
nahham
New member
Water, Fish, and a Pleasant Surprise
Water, Fish, and a Pleasant Surprise
I filled that tank fully yesterday and turned off the pump today to show you how the water looks. It is not as green as before, but still cloudy: I wonder how long it would take for it to 'un-cloud'?
Also some of the fish I have that is sooo fun to watch, especially that they keep next to the glass. I can see them from the house. The red grouper is always under the rock and never seen, bad bad fish LOL.
Today I got a call from UPS (aka Big Brown) saying they have a package for me. I was very pleasantly surprised when I opened the packages :celeb3:
Finally some progress.. :thumbsup:
Water, Fish, and a Pleasant Surprise
I filled that tank fully yesterday and turned off the pump today to show you how the water looks. It is not as green as before, but still cloudy: I wonder how long it would take for it to 'un-cloud'?
Also some of the fish I have that is sooo fun to watch, especially that they keep next to the glass. I can see them from the house. The red grouper is always under the rock and never seen, bad bad fish LOL.
Today I got a call from UPS (aka Big Brown) saying they have a package for me. I was very pleasantly surprised when I opened the packages :celeb3:
Finally some progress.. :thumbsup:
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
Make sure that the pumps are plugged into a ground fault interupt (gfi) outlet so it stops the power if the pump leaks electricity into the tank. Especially with 240 volts.
Did you do a small scale experiment with sand and pure freshwater in a bucket? This will establish if the sand is dissolving and how long it takes to settle in optimum conditions. You should also fill a clean white bucket with seawater and note the clarity when viewed from the top.
If the problem lies with the substrate then you may have to remove it. It may be adding phosphate in addition to turbidity. This would cause algae blooms. The water clarity should be at least as clear as the fish farm. If not, the problem can be isolated to the sand.
If you can rule out the sand as the source, then you need to address it as a phytoplankton (algae) bloom. This can be cleared with UV sterilization, fine mechanical filtration, water clarifying coagulents, or by adding rotifers (plankton) to the tank to consume it. Eliminating the nutrient source for algae is necessary to assure it does not return.
Did you do a small scale experiment with sand and pure freshwater in a bucket? This will establish if the sand is dissolving and how long it takes to settle in optimum conditions. You should also fill a clean white bucket with seawater and note the clarity when viewed from the top.
If the problem lies with the substrate then you may have to remove it. It may be adding phosphate in addition to turbidity. This would cause algae blooms. The water clarity should be at least as clear as the fish farm. If not, the problem can be isolated to the sand.
If you can rule out the sand as the source, then you need to address it as a phytoplankton (algae) bloom. This can be cleared with UV sterilization, fine mechanical filtration, water clarifying coagulents, or by adding rotifers (plankton) to the tank to consume it. Eliminating the nutrient source for algae is necessary to assure it does not return.
nahham
New member
I tried that in the tank itself. When I let the it settle, the water in the aquarium was clearer than the fish farm. From the top I can clearly through around .5 meters. I haven't tried letting it settle for the whole ~1m; I'll try it this time.
It still didn't turn green this time around. I'll leave it sit for another 2 days or so and see what happens. If I can see the bottom looking at it from the top we will be getting somewhere. I can always get some rotifers to make sure it doesn't turn green. I have a source for that. UV sterilization is on my list as well, but not right this instant
. Yeah I also need to clean the glass, that would probably help a bit. Too lazy to do it..Thanks. I appreciate the support.
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
Add a Magfloat Float-500 or three to the list. http://www.magfloat.net/pdf/Catalog Final.pdf
The scraper attachment is a must. http://www.easybladeusa.com/
The scraper attachment is a must. http://www.easybladeusa.com/
Absentmind8868
New member
OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
nough said.
nough said.
nahham
New member
OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
nough said.
Glad you liked it
Would you mind flying me out when it's all said and done so that I can help clean it? I have no problem throwing on the dive suit and strolling around in there for ya
I would mind flying you. I wouldn't mind you coming to check out the tank though
. I am planning to put on a dive suit and pick some of the rocks. It will be easier than walking around; it clouds the water.
digitalchrisg
New member
Yes, please lets see the clear water...
nahham
New member
Aquarium and Fish Farm 2010.05.26
Aquarium and Fish Farm 2010.05.26
I said the water was clearer, not totally clear. Here are some shots from today:
Here are some shots from the top of the water:
Here is how the Fish Farm (aka Fish Spa). The water is a bit lower than it should be because of a small leak. Planning to fix it soon.
'Stuff' (meaning the green stuff) is growing on the side walls. Is is good/bad? Will it help with the water filtration with a mostly closed loop? Should I remove it?
Aquarium and Fish Farm 2010.05.26
I said the water was clearer, not totally clear
. Here are some shots from today:
Here are some shots from the top of the water:
Here is how the Fish Farm (aka Fish Spa). The water is a bit lower than it should be because of a small leak. Planning to fix it soon.
'Stuff' (meaning the green stuff) is growing on the side walls. Is is good/bad? Will it help with the water filtration with a mostly closed loop? Should I remove it?
serpentman
part time superhero
The green stuff looks like a form of bryopsis which is common around docks and inlets where nutrients are abundant. My guess is the source water is probably loaded with phosphates and possibly nitrate due to run off. Have you run any tests on the raw water coming in? If you are planning to run an exchange system, this may present a particular challenge given the volumes involved.
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