anbosu
New member
Some of the other large builds (not quite as large as yours) have used marine grade concrete to stick the rocks together. You might need quite a bit, but that should allow you some more flexibility to create structures in the tank.
A ~19,000 Gallon Aquarium
- Thread starter nahham
- Start date
Some of the other large builds (not quite as large as yours) have used marine grade concrete to stick the rocks together. You might need quite a bit, but that should allow you some more flexibility to create structures in the tank.
nahham
New member
bummer that you have to take it down.
i have seen where people will drill rock and use a piece of plastic rod to hold rocks together. with the size rocks you use use that would have to be stainless steel rods. rebar would work but would rust and that could be a problem???
keep the updats coming
I did see some people drilling their rocks for the sake of aquascaping. However, I think in this case drilling the rocks will be a problem because of the size and weight of the rocks. Thanks for your comment, it is sad to drain the tank but hopefully it won't be for long.
I haven't thought of that before. I think it is a good idea especially that I do have access to the concrete. That opens some doors that I thought closed before. Thanks for the suggestion.
nahham
New member
This post is about the past two days of work on the tank:
2012.02.08
We started moving the rocks to the back of the aquarium in preparation for removing some of the sand and bringing in the new base rock. We also cleared the area surrounding the glass so that it will ease the repair process.
A sample of the wall covering for the aquarium. I personally like how it looks. If you remember earlier posts and voting on what design the aquarium front will take; my stakeholders voted against installing the arabesque designs I was intending to use.
Since the storage area was made after the tank was running, we couldn't plaster the wall. I took the chance to fix this wall.
2012.02.09
The new steel work for the lighting. I insisted on curved pipes and I think that was the right choice.
The steel work on the other side of the tank.
The workers hard at work on the walls of the seating area. I feel it was overdo to dress this lady up
2012.02.08
We started moving the rocks to the back of the aquarium in preparation for removing some of the sand and bringing in the new base rock. We also cleared the area surrounding the glass so that it will ease the repair process.
A sample of the wall covering for the aquarium. I personally like how it looks. If you remember earlier posts and voting on what design the aquarium front will take; my stakeholders voted against installing the arabesque designs I was intending to use.
Since the storage area was made after the tank was running, we couldn't plaster the wall. I took the chance to fix this wall.
2012.02.09
The new steel work for the lighting. I insisted on curved pipes and I think that was the right choice.
The steel work on the other side of the tank.
The workers hard at work on the walls of the seating area. I feel it was overdo to dress this lady up
digitalchrisg
New member
Looks great!
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
Too bad about the Arabesque design getting dropped. I like the idea, but perhaps it is more exotic from where I'm sitting and a limestone fascia is exotic from your "stakeholders" perspective.
It looks like there has been some breakdown in the concrete in some areas, but perhaps that is part of the renovation work? You really should look at a 10% silica fume portland mix to parge (skim coat) the walls.
How did the epoxy hold up? The crystallizing agents I recommended earlier will repair any leaks in the cement.
The steel support above the glass also appears to have rusted. This would be a good opportunity to delete this detail or at least replace with stainless steel. The flanges that hold the steel tubing also appear to have corroded. These too should be stainless steel or at least epoxy with a polyurethane top coat.
Are you replacing the glass or just resealing it? The silicone gasket should be at least 1" thick for a tank of that size.
I can see that the sand was causing problems by the black colour of hydrogen sulphide. If you add a substrate this time around, use calcium carbonate or aragonite.
For a project that big, you should be using 100 or 300w multi chip LEDs. Strips will not illuminate efficiently or cover much area. Your GHL Profilux controller can simulate the lunar cycle and dim tho flights to the desired mood.
You can buy or rent a gunite machine to cement the rocks in place and add realistic texture. Drilling large rocks is not difficult with a diamond hole saw, and they are available in any length. You can drill 1" holes to use PVC pipe for a support network. Carved styrofoam is a cheaper option for the base and it offers more flexibility in design. You can coat it with cement or epoxy & sand. You can buy aragonite sand for $150/tonne from the Caribbean.
Make sure you are using porous limestone and not heavy granite for your rock formation. It should be easy to acquire from areas where the port has been dredged for boat passage and new docks.
It looks like there has been some breakdown in the concrete in some areas, but perhaps that is part of the renovation work? You really should look at a 10% silica fume portland mix to parge (skim coat) the walls.
How did the epoxy hold up? The crystallizing agents I recommended earlier will repair any leaks in the cement.
The steel support above the glass also appears to have rusted. This would be a good opportunity to delete this detail or at least replace with stainless steel. The flanges that hold the steel tubing also appear to have corroded. These too should be stainless steel or at least epoxy with a polyurethane top coat.
Are you replacing the glass or just resealing it? The silicone gasket should be at least 1" thick for a tank of that size.
I can see that the sand was causing problems by the black colour of hydrogen sulphide. If you add a substrate this time around, use calcium carbonate or aragonite.
For a project that big, you should be using 100 or 300w multi chip LEDs. Strips will not illuminate efficiently or cover much area. Your GHL Profilux controller can simulate the lunar cycle and dim tho flights to the desired mood.
You can buy or rent a gunite machine to cement the rocks in place and add realistic texture. Drilling large rocks is not difficult with a diamond hole saw, and they are available in any length. You can drill 1" holes to use PVC pipe for a support network. Carved styrofoam is a cheaper option for the base and it offers more flexibility in design. You can coat it with cement or epoxy & sand. You can buy aragonite sand for $150/tonne from the Caribbean.
Make sure you are using porous limestone and not heavy granite for your rock formation. It should be easy to acquire from areas where the port has been dredged for boat passage and new docks.
naprestsleep
blank
Wow, individual veneer rock for the walls, those poor guys are going to be at it for a while.
nahham
New member
Truthfully, there was a huge sense of satisfaction seeing the rock going on the walls and the shade being 'fixed'. I can't wait to get it done.
nuccadoc
Member
nahham
New member
nahham
New member
As usual you see stuff that I don't even see. Thanks for the articulated thoughts.
- I am planning to change the top covering of the glass.
- The treatment for the fish farm worked well and I I do not see any issue with the epoxy in the aquarium.
- The sand was removed and we are getting what I'm hoping will be cleaner sand.
- Acquiring porous here is easier said than done. I am still looking though.
It didn't take them as long as I thought.
Thanks.
It is an impressive build. I will try to get in contact with him to see if there anything he might suggest I do.
nahham
New member
The Big Bang of 2012 Update
The Big Bang of 2012 Update
Here are some of the changes that happened:
A full shot of the tank area.
The top-side of the walls. The covering will extend a bit to allow for installing LEDs beneath it.
Another shot of the top-side covering.
The painted light support. We added an additional row of lighting to help illuminate the tank better.
Another shot from inside the tank. We removed the sand and rocks to clear the way for the new sand and to allow for building structures beforehand.
The new shade for the tank. It will allow for three pieces of shade to go up. I am thinking of covering the sides as well so that there will be no reflection on the glass when viewing in the daylight.
The Big Bang of 2012 Update
Here are some of the changes that happened:
A full shot of the tank area.
The top-side of the walls. The covering will extend a bit to allow for installing LEDs beneath it.
Another shot of the top-side covering.
The painted light support. We added an additional row of lighting to help illuminate the tank better.
Another shot from inside the tank. We removed the sand and rocks to clear the way for the new sand and to allow for building structures beforehand.
The new shade for the tank. It will allow for three pieces of shade to go up. I am thinking of covering the sides as well so that there will be no reflection on the glass when viewing in the daylight.
naprestsleep
blank
I no nothing of BIG tanks and such but....
Could you epoxy or such a thin layer of sand over the bottom like a veneer? That way you would not have to worry about it getting dirty and filling with "stuff". Seem to me long term care of even the most ideal sand would become a maintenance nightmare.
Could you epoxy or such a thin layer of sand over the bottom like a veneer? That way you would not have to worry about it getting dirty and filling with "stuff". Seem to me long term care of even the most ideal sand would become a maintenance nightmare.
nicholasdances
New member
This is amazing.
marinelife
Active member
Very nice Changes!!
Similar threads
