A couple of new things today:

BryanCaruso

New member
Well finally got a tester for phosphate I got the Hanna ul phosphorus hopefully that was the right one. I remember a thread about a month ago about someone should have got the ultra low range. I also got a big bag of salt. I got a bubble gum montipora. A couple of foods. Also another mp40
 
Yes phosphorus ultra low range is what you want. I started with the phosphate checker and it was showing around 0.00 to 0.02. I then got the ULR and it showed 0.05 to 0.06. Apparently much better precision and accuracy at the lower end where we are testing.

Dont forget most reference phosphate in parts per million. The ULR checks for phosphorus not phosphate and uses parts per billion instead of million. There is a conversion factor of 0.003066. Multiply your ULR results by 0.003066 to calculate phosphate ppm.
 
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Ok I did the test and came up with 57 so multiplied that by 3.066/1000= 0.174762 does this seem right? I did a water change today
 
Ok I did the test and came up with 57 so multiplied that by 3.066/1000= 0.174762 does this seem right? I did a water change today

Yes it's right and quite high in my opinion. Please explain the process that you did to get your results.



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Well I put tank water in the vial. Zero it out with the 10ml facing forward. Put stuff in and shook gently for 2 minutes used a stopwatch then wiped off fingerprints and put back in with 10ml facing forward and held button to start countdown
 
At .36 all my SPS died. Now that I'm back to 0.02 they look very happy.

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Don't lower them too fast. Take a few weeks. Make sure you don't lower your nitrates to fast if either. You don't want to starve your coral. 1-3 on nitrates is good.


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Well I put tank water in the vial. Zero it out with the 10ml facing forward. Put stuff in and shook gently for 2 minutes used a stopwatch then wiped off fingerprints and put back in with 10ml facing forward and held button to start countdown

I'll give you a detailed account of how I do it and get repeatable results.

Your first step is to rinse the vial in your tank water multiple times I do it 3 times of filling it up shaking it with the cap on it and dumping it back out. After that fill it up to the line 10 mL of water. I wipe it off several times while looking at the vial in front of a light to make sure there's no fingerprints on it. I also take this moment to then turn on the Hanna with the lid closed and let it zero itself out and ask for C1. I then take the reagent and grab it by a corner and flick and tap the opposite corner so that all of the powder settles into that corner. I then it cut open the reagent and fold it together to crease one Edge so that it will easily be able to dump into the vial when it is needed. I take one more look at the vile to make sure that there is no fingerprints on it and put it in 10 milliliters facing forward and push the button. When it asks for C2 I remove the vial by only touching the lid and the glass part I hold in a clean rag. Ivan ad the reagent and screw the lid on I then hold the button on the Hanna checker until the 3 minute countdown clock begins I then shake it as hard as I can for at least a minute to a minute and a half. After 30 seconds of just letting it set there I grabbed it by the lid and start rolling it around to make sure that all of the bubbles that were in it dispersed after I am satisfied that there are no more air bubbles in it I put it into the Hannah (10ml facing out) and wait for it to test when the timer runs out. Now after the test I clean the vile out with tank water and then RO water a couple times and I took aleastur them with no air in the vial in a container of clean RO water. Hope this is detailed enough and you can follow what I'm trying to say.
 
I have another opinion on no3. I like to keep them between 5 and 15.



That may well be correct. My tank has always done better in the low range. At least intel like it has. Anything above 15 in my tank was bad news. I always kept everything ultra low so it could have been the swing that killed everything. From 0 to 16 in a week or two will mess with things if they are used to ultra low readings usually. Every tank is different too.


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That is good advice on how to do it for sure! My nitrates are always pretty low 3-5. So after doing some research I can add bacteria which I'm doing to slowly and naturally bring down phosphates will it come down 5x less that way I doubt it. Also more flow I have always had quite a bit now with two mp40 still experimenting with different modes and I am running a third korallia cuz why not. I could run 4 but seems excxessive. Can't really run macro cuz no room in my sump to do it right. So that leaves me with gfo in reactor doesn't seem very expensive to run can maybe find something used but media needs to be constantly changed out. Biopellets watched a marine Depot I think it was video and plastic media not sure if it needs changing out but seemed like it can strip a tank of everything if not careful. I saw some kid pit phosguard into a media bag and just put it in his tank doesn't seem ideal. But regardless if the dry rock is leeching the phosphate which my understanding is a common thing then I can use a liquid phosphate remover through a filter sock which I don't have currently. Oh yeah carbon dosing too. Let me know what you think for a small tank is the best. Continue with flow,bacteria and limit nutrients or go another route
 
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