A discussion on "how to set up a perfect SPS reef"

[kvosstra]

I have the fortune of starting a brand new tank in the next 2-3 months and I figured that now would be a good time to start a complete discussion of what steps should one take to enjoy a "perfect" sps reef.

After all is said and done, I'd like to do a write up on all the ideas, including pictures, possibly on my blog, possibly in another format (TBD) to help serve as a strong resource.

A few statements to frame the issue, not just for my tank, but for a new SPS reef set-up in general. So lets frame the discussion from the perspective of Reefer X with these general statements in mind.

1. Reefer X has 3-5 years of experience keeping Saltwater fish.
2. X has successfully kept a pair of clownfish alive for 3-5 year.
3. X has successfully kept Soft and hard corals alive for more than 12 continuous months without a tank crash.
4. X has had a tank crash and has learned something from this.
5. X has had ich in previous marine tanks
6. X has had monti eating nudi's and AEFW in his/her tanks
7. X believes a reef tank should cost no more than $5000 to properly set-up and automate, and that automation is key to success.

 

[kvosstra]

First, lets select a tank, sump, etc.

I believe a tank should be no less than 40gallons, and a 10-20 gallon sump. Why? Small tanks are harder! They are! things change faster in such small volumes of water and this can create major headaches.

I also firmly believe in a sump and that the tank should be drilled with an overflow. The overflow allows surface water to be pulled off the top and removes surface slime, but also adds in oxygenation.

Sump must have these features - return section, skimmer, and fuge section.
Skimmer must be held steady to perform best, return must be large enough to allow the pumps space so they dont make noise, and must allow for an ATO on the tank.
I firmly believe in a reverse lighting period or 24/7 fuge. It stabilizes pH and allows for a "refuge" from predation so that crustaceans may reproduce in the tank.

Onto hardware, lights, etc.
Do you believe in T5, MH, or new technologies. (notice I'm omitting PC - these dont cut it, in my mind, nor do T12 VHO or other lower output lights)?
Calcium reactor or Balling method?
Kalk or no Kalk?

 

[Ollyp5673]

Alot of things I would do differently if starting my tank from scratch again. I think I would use reef ceramics or dead LR to scape the tank to elliminate any pest algae/aiptasias etc which are a problem for me at the moment. As I'm using zeo currently, I'd also like to start a tank using this method so I could better attribute it's specific effects. Id have lots more flow from the start also. Another thing I think I would do is stock the sps as frags closer together and let them all grow out together, instead of buying colonies one by one.
Lastly, I'd not start with soft corals, and stock only sps, to minimise any warfare between corals.

 

[kvosstra]

Alot of things I would do differently if starting my tank from scratch again. I think I would use reef ceramics or dead LR to scape the tank to elliminate any pest algae/aiptasias etc which are a problem for me at the moment. As I'm using zeo currently, I'd also like to start a tank using this method so I could better attribute it's specific effects. Id have lots more flow from the start also. Another thing I think I would do is stock the sps as frags closer together and let them all grow out together, instead of buying colonies one by one.
Lastly, I'd not start with soft corals, and stock only sps, to minimise any warfare between corals.

Olly - I totally agree with you on the use of "dead rock" I actually have saved some of my old live rock and I have bleached it and also done an acid bath with it. The rock is now bright white and is clean of any pests.

One question you bring up is the use of ZEO, or other carbon additions to a tank (with the assumption that Zeo is a carbon dosing with some extra "stuff") Would you use these products, or would you begin a tank with aggressive Phosban and carbon use to reduce and prevent PO4 in the tank?

As for flow, use of frags instead of colonies, etc. Lets cover those in the next few pages of discussion.

Who out there has thoughts on the tank, dead rock, and hardware?

Best,
-Kyle

 

[Ollyp5673]

I know from my own experience of my tank, that using all the old liverock from my last tank has probably caused me more problems like higher levels of phosphates and algae growth etc than if I would of used totally 'dead' rock and loads of flow from the begining making the battle towards undetectable levels of nutrients a much shorter process, regardless of what method I'm ultimately using now.

 

[reefinder]

you gave your rock an acid bath, that should be fine. Minimal rock work in my next tank that is drilled and placed securely so not to rock toppling involved. That would be key it would give your acropora extra space to grow an limit algae growth. I would also have a deep sand bed in my fuge, and I love my vortech, in a tank under 50 gallons only one is needed so you have that extra space in the tank. the overflow box would be external with a painted back glass/acrlic to hide overlow box, you will also have optimal room in your tank that way. Eheim would be my return pump and an Good cone skimmer would be my choice. The stand I would Design plug out lets for contrlor, fans etc.. and I would seal the inside of the stand to keep away mold/mildew growth. I would build the tank to fit my needs,, so I can reach each area to clean or pick up fallen frags with ease. For lighting I would go with mh/vho's you will not get better colors with a good mh set up and vho supplemental lighting. If you are worried about energy usage than got with ATO T5 set up it has the best ratings so far in the T5 category. Thats it for now got to go back to work.

 

[29reef]

"How to set up the perfect sps reef"

Call a travel agent or your local dive shop and set up a trip!

There's no one way; theres no single method. Just do what works for you.

 

[reefinder]

Zeo is great, but it you will be fine, and get same results with a good skimmer and a fuge.

 

[wackie1wackie]

If i could start over I'd definitely get LR from a reliable source. I had the misfortune buying rocks from local reefers that are loaded with impurities(po4/nitrate) Get some online from reputable dealers since a few can get fresh rock out of the ocean into your living room in a matter of days. That and I would not add anything for a year. I'd just let the tank sit fallow for awhile.

 

[kvosstra]

Good comments everyone - lets continue this discussion. For now, can we focus on the issue of live rock - again, please keep in mind the target audience, I, like you and Reefer X have have a number of successful reef tanks - so, from your own experience, what should you do to optimize a new tank.

I think that the issue of "live rock" is really key here - Over the last 10 years of so of reefing, I have generally purchased rock from 3 sources, 1. other friends, with reefs, 2. reef shops, and 3. online. And, honestly, I dont have a preferred source and find that each has its drawbacks.

friends tanks still have problems in that the rock may have parasites on it, algae, PO4, etc.
Online rock - is generally "new" rock, so its not very sustainable, comes with aiptasia, crabs, mantis, and other hitchikers,
LFS rock - supports the LFS which is good, but same issues with Online rock - its also generally the most expensive
Dead rock - I think this is the best bet - keeps out parasites and other hitchikers, but...we run the issue of how to create a diverse ecosystem in our tanks.

So, the question i present to you, is how to best add life to your tank, if you use "dead" rock to begin with? Do you:
1. add a few small peices of live rock, that you can inspect for hitchikers?
2. Add macroalgae from a friends refuguim (basic assumption that you have to add macroalgae to seed your own refugium)
3. Add Live sand from a friends tank
4. Besides the macroalgae - do nothing - just add frags and go!

-Kyle

 

[Ollyp5673]

I'd say I'm leaning towards dead rock, I don't think I'm worried about not having any diverse life in/ on rock for the purpose of keeping sps, as long as a bacteria source can be added to seed the rock. I would try and minimise the import of nutrients from the very beginning.

 

[RickMartin]

I will be setting up a large tank soon. Live rock, transshipped in having never seen a holding tank at the wholesaler and not Caribbean. About 1/2 to 1/3 of what you normally see in a tank. Aggressive skimming and gfo use from day 1. No sand, no fuge. Prob 400w MH or t5s but undecided on lighting still.

 

[kvosstra]

I will be setting up a large tank soon. Live rock, transshipped in having never seen a holding tank at the wholesaler and not Caribbean. About 1/2 to 1/3 of what you normally see in a tank. Aggressive skimming and gfo use from day 1. No sand, no fuge. Prob 400w MH or t5s but undecided on lighting still.

Rick, I think your plan sounds pretty good - I'm a firm believer in the heavy use of GFO from day 1 and skimming is a necessity in any tank for sure.
I have personally used both 400W 6500, 10K and 20K, as well as T5 and there are plusses and minuses to both IMHO.

As for your choice of rock - certainly nothing wrong with transshipped rock, but I would still be weary of crabs and other nuisance hitchikers - however, as you stated, caribbean rock has the most pests in my experience.

 

[RRaider]

I will be setting up a large tank soon. Live rock, transshipped in having never seen a holding tank at the wholesaler and not Caribbean. About 1/2 to 1/3 of what you normally see in a tank. Aggressive skimming and gfo use from day 1. No sand, no fuge. Prob 400w MH or t5s but undecided on lighting still.

How does one go about obtaining such live rock?

 

[kvosstra]

So here's a question that I really dont have an answer for, nor do I have any experience with.

What if you wanted to "seed" your tank with some of the Off the shelf products, ones that claim to speed up the biological process. Do any of these actually work? Are they all snake oils? (example - Prodibio "Start up" or "Biodigest" etc....) I'm looking for actual experience, or direct knowledge of what the product is and what it actually does in the tank, not speculation. Thanks!

Best,
-Kyle

 

[Nanook]

I'm a BIG fan of transshipped liverock and would not start a tank without it. I think the diversity of life it brings far outweighs the few negatives. FWIW, with the Pacific rock I have ordered in the past, I have never received problem crabs or pests.

 

[kvosstra]

I'm a BIG fan of transshipped liverock and would not start a tank without it. I think the diversity of life it brings far outweighs the few negatives. FWIW, with the Pacific rock I have ordered in the past, I have never received problem crabs or pests.

Dave, is this rock readily ordered from your LFS, or through online vendors? Are there particular vendors you suggest over another?

 

[RRaider]

I'm a BIG fan of transshipped liverock and would not start a tank without it. I think the diversity of life it brings far outweighs the few negatives. FWIW, with the Pacific rock I have ordered in the past, I have never received problem crabs or pests.

How does one go about obtaining such live rock?

 

[phenom5]

I don't consider a fuge a must. I've been running without a fuge for the last 3 or 4 years, and I've done just fine. For me, the biggest reason has been space. With the space I have available, I don't think a fuge would be big enough to be effective.

Lighting, I prefer MH even though I currently have T5's. LED's look promising, but I'll wait for the price to come down, and for the technology to progress before I go that route.

As far as rock goes, without a doubt I'm going to go with base rock (like Macro or Eco Rox) seeded with a small amount of LR on my next tank. Equally important as the type of rock is the amount. Minimal rock in the display that allows for growth, and good flow is ideal IMO.

 

[reefEng10]

I have been thinking about changing my current set up and maybe starting over, a few things I would do different some has been mentioned:

1. Use dead rock only, seeded with a bit of lr known to be relatively free of pests

2. Barebottom - easier to maintain

3. High high high flow keep detritus suspended

4. 24/7 filter socks changed regularly, catch stuff before it breaks down

5. Heavy skimming (doing this now but it's important I think)

6. 24/7 GFO and carbon

7. Thinking about new lighting, maybe diy led. Pretty sure with led with tight optics high enough above tank can get plenty of par and keep temperature swings literally within +- 0.1 C

8. Dosing pumps for ca alk mag to keep levels rock solid

Would like to hear what others think about these suggestions as well, common sense or not