A GFO Plan

[krzyphsygy]

So I started GFO about 3 months ago due to some high po4 and a little algae and cyano issues. The GFO cured both rather quickly. The issues were a result of over feeding due to trying to get color on my sps corals and no consistent scheduled water changes. The over feeding more than helped and color was restored. But not with out raising po4 and n03 slightly. I put a weekly water change of 10% in place and have been very consistent

So I am trying to find a balance because about 3-4 of my montiporas I noticed are paling a little bit. I feel it might be the GFO but could be that I changed my 2 actinic t5 to blue plus bulbs. I did raise my lights about 4 inches when I changed the bulbs though. The color change is only on a pink monti cap that is in 4 places and a seasons greeting moti.
All of my acros are fine. The red planet is slightly paled but not much at all.
I was thinking of running GFO 3 days then off for 4 each week. Would this be a bad idea? Or should I just feed more? I feed 2x every other day.

 

[scottwhitson]

I think one issue you will run into with only running your GFO 3 days then off 4 is that it will clump up and also it wouldn't be good to let the water sit in the reactor with no flow going through it.

 

[Notquiterite]

Do you have your GFO tumbling in a reactor? If so, maybe try turning down the flow or possibly lowering the amount of GFO in the reactor.

 

[krzyphsygy]

Do you have your GFO tumbling in a reactor? If so, maybe try turning down the flow or possibly lowering the amount of GFO in the reactor.

Yea, I have a slight tumble at the top. I tested po4 last night and on Hanna checker it was .02 which is better than 0 but I want it around .03-.05.
If I just feed alittle more I can bring it up slightly. The trick is not raising n03. I don't carbon dose. So nitrate control is through water changes. I will try to feed more maybe. I can reduce flow a bit a reduce media. Good idea.
I have turned off the reactor before for 3 days. It did not clump.

 

[glaukos]

My humble opinion is that changing the bulbs had nothing to do with the pale colors so i think this possibility is out
And i i'm not sure how big the difference would be,regarding par,from raising the lights only 4 inces.
Just my thoughts so you can maybe exclude the light factor.

I agree with scottwhittson and notquiterite.
What's you no3 reading?

 

[krzyphsygy]

N03 is 5ppm
Po4 .02
Cal 410
Alk 7.7 Steady
Mag 1340
PH 8.3

I have started to feed slightly heavier. Going to 3x a day, every other day. I skip a day feeding because I feel it helps my skimmer catch up on each non feeding day.

 

[krzyphsygy]

Ya know, looking at these pink monti's, the color is actually turning grey in the inner parts not white, not brown, but grey. Its the same on each one. Weird! The edges are still pink though!

 

[fishguy597]

Are you running the full recommended amont? I find half the amont of go is better.

 

[Notquiterite]

I also recommend running half of the suggested amount. It's always better to start slow and compensate for your needs. Stripping the water too fast will be bad

 

[tycoakley]

when your reds are starting to fade I would look into potassium issues. check this out about coral colorations. http://************.com/2008/09/03/guide-of-sps-coral-coloration-make-them-more-vivid-bright/

 

[trueblackpercula]

Try using less GFO this may help as this stuff strips water quickly and allows more light to penitrate causing paleness. Also if that's not the issues then try adding a food source for your Sps as they may be starved.

 

[Dapg8gt]

Agreed to check on your potassium levels for the gray centers of the plates. It's been documented before that low potassium can show these issues in montis and affect red's on acros also..

I like the Salifert kit myself.. Not sure if it's the most accurate but it is Def easier to use than the others..