A more "Green" system

Jamokie01

New member
With utility prices constantly rising and a world finally trying to become more "Green", I'm wondering what ways people have designed their systems to be more efficient. Anyone out there using geothermal energy to heat or cool tanks, or does anyone have more information how a heat exchange system for your tank might work? What kind of equipment would be needed? I know natural light is occaisonally used to suppliment tank lighting, has anyone taken this a step further and used solar energy in any other ways? There are alot of solar powered water pumps available, they dont seem to have made their way into the hobby yet though. Reccommendations on high efficiency lighting, reflectors, pumps, powerheads, and anything else applicable would be greatly appreciated. Im not currently planning a system change, I just think this could be a very useful topic for a hobby that is already taking so much from nature, not to mention from our wallets.
 
I saw the topic and its GREAT. I have cut my tank down so much with pumps , lighting, heater, chiller , ocean motion, phosban reactors, and you name it. My style today is the simple tank. I've be doing this for over 8 months and my tank still is great and my elcet bill has gone from over $1000.00 last summer to $180.00 this summer. I call it the SIMPLE TANK. I'm trying less and less every month and seeing how my tank gets effected. I've seen my SPS incrust more instead of growing branches without extra flow. other than that seems o.k. I even turn my 1 halid off for 2 days a week and no effect on color.
 
I wish I lived in an area that got enough sun to make solar tubes feasible, but here in Youngstown Ohio, its a little on the cloudy side. The airforce built a base near here because I guess we get the most frequent cloud cover in the Eastern US.
 
clown2be - anychance we could get more detailed information about what you used to run, including which pumps and such, and what you run today? Please also include any extra work you have to do, waterchanges as such, and if at all possible some pictures of your tank a year ago and today. This would be very much appreciated. Thank you in advance.
 
Think reducing photoperiod and/or going a day or two a week with the lights off is a good way to start. Myself I got a 8x54 tek T5 and I have taken two bulbs off and turn off the lights a day a week. It gets cloudy outside every once in a while. Wish I own rather than rented, I would definately put in some solartubes.
 
I like to leave the lights off once in a while, maybe 2 or 3 times a month. The corals look amazing the next day, very extended. Except the xenia, its not fond of dark days.
 
Looks as if the Solaris LED light systems would probably save alot of electricity--not only because of the efficient lighting but also less heat (so less need for fans and chillers).
I'm not sure it would save you much money though (maybe in the long, long run)!
 
Anyone have any info on green energy certificates? I know there is some way to buy certificates that pay your power bill, and the money goes towards adding green energy to grids. The power you may be getting is probably still from a plant, but the "green energy bonds" get more green energy added to the overall grid. neat concept. I've heard about it a lot, but never found out how to get them....
 
I think its gonna take a few more years before LED tank lighting really becomes viable. After a few years, more companies will be making the product, giving more options ("bulbs", color temp, sunrise/sunset effects, etc) and more aquarists will have used them and will be able to better explain the pros/cons, not to mention all new systems have a "break in" period to work out any unforseen kinks. And the current price is definitly prohibitive.

I have heard about green energy from your power company, but havent looked into it or heard any details.

Anybody else? Beananimal I figured you would have posted something by now.
 
When I started designing my tank I took great interest in keeping energy costs to a minimum.

My tank is 24 x 24 x 20 I chose to go Barebottom due to lower lighting needs of the tank.

I chose Powerheads instead of a closed loop for more energy efficient flow.

I tried to pick lower wattage pumps when I was picking return pumps and the Pump for my CR.
 
I started my tank with a large beckett skimmer, fed by a PCX-70 pump which used 300w, and a large sequence closed loop pump drawing 330w.

I've since replaced the skimmer with a large recirculating needlewheel, which is gravity fed from my tank -- uses 180w now.

I've also replaced my sequence closed loop pump with two Tunze 6101 streams - these use 70w total.

Total power savings is approx $15 per month or around $186 per year.
 
Yeah - I've always wanted to expand the information to include other pumps just out of curiosity but haven't ever gotten around to doing it. The circulation pumps that are more common in today's closed loop applications are more efficient in terms of gph/watt than the external pumps included in the comparison. The stream pumps are still more efficient though.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10646238#post10646238 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by miwoodar
I agree tgunn...I'm using stream pumps rather than a closed loop too. This comparison is pretty interesting: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Powerhead_test/powerhead_comp.htm

I also decided not to plumb my tank to the basement. It was a tough decision since I already had the pump.

I also run my AC at 79 and keep evaporation high enough so I don't need to run a chiller. My tank is usually between 79.5 and 81.5.

I would have used a PCX-40 for my basement sump return if I didn't already have the PCX-70 I used now. That'd bed another 220w of power savings..

I keep my tank around 78F via evaporation (fan over sump). Because of the streams and recirc skimmer I can do this. With my large closed loop and skimmer pumps last summer I struggled to maintain 82F with a fan over the sump and the A/C running hard all summer.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10645760#post10645760 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tperk9784
When I started designing my tank I took great interest in keeping energy costs to a minimum.

My tank is 24 x 24 x 20 I chose to go Barebottom due to lower lighting needs of the tank.

I chose Powerheads instead of a closed loop for more energy efficient flow.

I tried to pick lower wattage pumps when I was picking return pumps and the Pump for my CR.

Although I prefer BB tanks, I think a properly setup bb tank will use far more energy than a sb tank. The main reason is the amount of flow needed to keep the bottom free of detritus. A sb tank demands lower flow to keep the sand in place.

As for the water clarity increasing in a bb tank, and thereby reducing the length of time you need to run your lights (or lower wattage bulbs) I don't buy it. A well run sb tank will not have water clarity problems so dramatic as to significantly change the amount of light penetration.

Lastly, a bb tank needs a ton of skimming power to be effective long term. A big skimmer will need more "juice" than a smaller one of the same design.


Brad
 
I put a small window AC unit in my fishroom so I can close the door when it's nice and open the windows in the rest of the house (I don't mind 80 in the house if there is a breeze). Now I'm not obligated to crank the central air just to keep my tanks under 80.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10651013#post10651013 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by grallster
I put a small window AC unit in my fishroom so I can close the door when it's nice and open the windows in the rest of the house (I don't mind 80 in the house if there is a breeze). Now I'm not obligated to crank the central air just to keep my tanks under 80.

I know what you mean...
I have a feeling in my case I'd probably save energy with a setup like that or a split chiller. I imagine it's more efficient to cool just the tank or fish room than the entire house. :)

Too bad I can't put a window A/C in my basement fish room. Doh! :)
 
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