A potentially Ich-y situation

[fishstick3]

So I have had my tank up and running for about 3 years. About a month or two ago my red headed goby died( I had him for about 1 1/2 years, I was pretty upset). It seemed to me that it might have been some sort of internal parasite since his stomach became very distended, yet he swam about and seemed overall fine(we thought he was just a glutton). I went to my LFS and they sold me Dr. G.'s metro to treat my other fish(Royal Gramma I have had for over three years) just incase it was contagious.

We have made some upgrades with lights on the tanks, and have added two new fish. The royal gramma is now "rubbing" himself on the sand and rocks, the sixline wrasse had some white specks on his tail( they have gone away for now), and the algae blenny has some white spots as well. I have been using the Dr. G's metro for over eight days(the recommended time) and the fish don't seem any better.

So here is my main questions:
I have a 10 gallon QT tank, and I have read that I need to QT all of my fish.

First what product do you suggest to treat the ich(someone mentioned Lifeguard, by marine land)?

Will the fish need to be in the Qt tank, if so for how long?

And if they must go into a QT tank, is 10 gallons really going to be big enough for three fish one of which is territorial(the gramma)?


PLEASE HELP!!!!! They arent just moving decorations to me!!!

Thank you all in advance

Fishstick

 

[Pife]

I use copper.

Use a qt tank.

12 weeks.

Add lots of pvc fittings for them to hide in.

 

[GroktheCube]

Metro is worthless for ich, and can have side effects. I'd stop it for now.

For ich, your treatment options (in order of my personal preference) are:
1. Tank Transfer Method. The fish are transferred into a clean, sterile QT every 3 days for 4 total transfers. Guaranteed cure if executed properly.
2. Cupramine for 4-6 weeks at at least .35ppm, ramping up slowly.
3. Chloroquine phosphate at 10mg/l for 4-6 weeks
4. Hyposalinity. Not terribly reliable.

 

[fishstick3]

Any recommendations on the brand of copper.

I realize the metro doesnt do much.

for the tank transfer method, how does that work? You put the fish into a QT tank for three days, then put them back into the main tank for three days, back and forth back forth for four times. wouldn't the ich still be in the main tank? would i need to get another QT tank?
I also have a 12 gallon nano cube that i catch fish( I live in South Florida) and put in, I can release the fish i have in there and potentially use that as well( it has some soft corals and live rock)

 

[GroktheCube]

I like cupramine for copper.

You use two small QTs in TTM. It goes like this:
Day 1-Fish into QT1
Day 4 am- Fish into QT2, sterilize everything in QT1
Day 7 am- Fish into sterile QT1, sterilize everything in QT2
Day 10 am- Fish into sterile QT2
Day 13 am- Fish are cured! Transfer into a holding tank to wait out the 72 day fallow period for the main tank.

 

[fishstick3]

How do u sterilize you QT tanks?

When transferring to a holding tank can that tank have live rock/ coral ?

 

[GroktheCube]

Bleach is a very easy way. Completely rinsing with FW and allowing to dry can work too.

Would the LR/coral be from the DT? If so, that's a no go. Nothing from the DT can touch the QT setup until 72 days from the time the fish are removed.

 

[fishstick3]

No the live rock won't be from the DT. So what I am worried about is having my three fish crammed in a 10 gallon QT tank for the span of the necessary quarantine, especially with my royal gramma being both territorial yet very skidish. I am afraid in such a small tank he will kill the wrasse or die from the stress of not having his usual hiding spots.

Thank you so much for your continued help, I have been lucky enough to never have had this problem before so I am pretty lost on it all.