A Reefaholic's 1000+ Gallon Mixed Reef System Build

[Dustin1300]

Plumbing problem #1

Plumbing problem #1

I started doing water testing and soon found my first mistake! I put the bulkheads on wrong for the return pumps so it started leaking right after I put water in it. I ended up coming up with an easy fix after flipping the bulkheads around by cutting the pipe and bringing it out the ~1" to put a coupler in place. Once done that held water as expected. Please don't pay too much attention to the mess as I've given up on repeated cleanings as I just need to give that up and do a real good cleaning after I'm done plumbing/drilling/cutting!

Pipe Cut:

Pipe repaired with coupler to get the extra inch or so:

Newly plumbed in and water test sat while Scott and I unloaded the new tank and filled it with water in the garage. The bulkhead being flipped fixed it!:

 

[Dustin1300]

I had to finish the drain plumbing as I had to wait for street 90s from BRS so I can't do a full water test tonight. (Want them to fully cure) That being said, I decided to start filling the sump and going ahead and testing the return section without it getting very deep in the frag tank.

Positive:

Only leaks were a couple Unions that needed to be tightened down.

Negative:

Second ReeFlo Dart pump just made a humming sound and did not pump water. I'll mess with it in the morning as I'm ready to call it quits for the day.

Here's a pic with the sump with water in it!:

And another pic of the frag/grow out tank with a few inches of water. Figured I'd let it sit and check a few times tonight if any of the bulkheads have a leak but nothing yet:

 

[Dustin1300]

Water test complete

Water test complete

Tested water today but was not around the house very much so did not work on system very much. Got the water testing completed and fixed the couple small leaks that were dripping after hours of water testing. Fixed Dart pump after looking at the ReeFlo site last night and finding that new pumps have tight seals and can often have a little harder time to start up. After giving it a quick turn with screwdriver pump fired up right away.

That said and done I've got a couple problems that need to be resolved before I feel comfortable with putting saltwater in the system.

1) Two pumps is currently way too much flow. Running with one pump seems to be plenty of flow for what I'll need and still needing to dial it back. With a 4-5 turnover rate in frag system that means I'll only need 560-700 GPH and future DT will need roughly 2400-3000 GPH. That should work out about perfectly and for now I'll likely just run one of the pumps dialed back and save the second as backup and use once DT is plumbed in.
2) Flow out of returns on frag tank is very low. Will likely swap out the 3/4" Loc-Line with 1/2" so it has more flow coming out of them.
3) Last problem which I need some input on. With one pump flowing the bubble trap is sending bubbles right into the return pump. Two going at a time only increases the problem even more. That being said, I'd like to beat this one out before it becomes a real battle once DT is up and running. Any ideas on modifying sump so bubbles don't enter return?

Picture of sump return section and bubbles:

Any ideas on how to eliminate the bubbles would be GREATLY appreciated.

 

[SPotter]

Dustin....do you just have strainers on the inside of the sump? I use and have seen others use an elbow fitting with the elbow pointed down and this does away with the bubbles.

 

[Dustin1300]

Dustin....do you just have strainers on the inside of the sump? I use and have seen others use an elbow fitting with the elbow pointed down and this does away with the bubbles.

Correct, right now I just have strainers on the intake. I had not thought about it but honestly could put elbow/45 and angle it back to left away from the cascade. Left most return is far enough and a 45 would not restrict the intake as much as an elbow. I worry about restricting the intake too much though because I've already got a 90 before it goes to the Dart pumps. I think something like this prolly will fix the problem as I was over analyzing it I guess Thanks Steve

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

You can also make a plenum intake. Our LFS has this on their 1200g tank that has what looks like about a 200g sump, the water level in their sump running is only like 6" so they have a PVC "loop" with crosscuts all along the bottom of it. This acts like a strainer too. I thought it was quite cool. Basically you would elbow down to a tee, then make a loop with PVC right against the bottom of the sump and put crosscuts about 1/3 to 1/2 way through the pipe.

HTH

 

[Dustin1300]

I post the questions to get the options Floyd. That's definitely not one that I would have considered but seems like it would work. My only problem is that would be a lot of slits to make up for a 1 1/2" intake for two return pumps in my 'small' return section.

I've also considered the possibility of an angled piece of acrylic which is between the strainers/baffles so the bubbles have a chance to pop and not be sucked in by the suction from the intakes. I wish I would have made the baffles wider so add that to my list of "Wish I would of...."!

 

[SPotter]

I don't think the elbows will have an impact on the intake. I tried to get a picture of mine but its too dark and I don't think my cell phone takes good pictures under water but I can tell you that I can get two fingers between the elbow and the bottom of my sump and still have to turn back my return.

 

[Dustin1300]

It's worth a try. Once I make another order for additives from BRS I'll make sure and pick up the plumbing I need to give it a try.

 

[SPotter]

sounds good!

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

I know all about too much flow for the size of the sump. I've got 3000 GPH going through a half-full 30g on the tank I maintain, but that's all I could fit under the tank ugh.

 

[mwminer]

Hey Dustin, it's Matt. Following your build now. I see I have lots of pages to read to catch up!

 

[Dustin1300]

I know all about too much flow for the size of the sump. I've got 3000 GPH going through a half-full 30g on the tank I maintain, but that's all I could fit under the tank ugh.

Well....Let's hope that the sump will work out well but guess I could always make a secondary sump that goes under the DT. If I would have just doubled the baffle spacing:headwally:

Hey Dustin, it's Matt. Following your build now. I see I have lots of pages to read to catch up!

Matt, nice to have you following along. I did lots of research on the tanks we have and the manufacturer had a great rep until the last year of manufacturing. I found that the one I purchased was made about 3-4 years ago when there business was booming but luckily the tank is brand new, never set up As a word of caution, if it was made in that last year just make sure that it does not have any crazing or that the seams are good.

 

[sidewinder770]

Hey Dustin. Just thought I'd let you know I'm following this thread as it will be great to see that tank full of water. From what I saw when I was at your house your off to a great start! I'll have to go and read this thread from the beginning. Keep the pics coming.

Good luck!

 

[Dustin1300]

Hey Dustin. Just thought I'd let you know I'm following this thread as it will be great to see that tank full of water. From what I saw when I was at your house your off to a great start! I'll have to go and read this thread from the beginning. Keep the pics coming.

Good luck!

Glad to have you following along Scott! Water tests over the weekend went well but you called the problem spot with bubbles. I'm going to try what Steve mentioned in thread as the bubbles don't seem to be an issue on the left side of the return section. Currently running on one of the Darts as it is plenty of water flow for what is up. I'll be reading up on your thread once I have some free time.

Next Steps:

- Drain system of water tonight
- Plumb QT system
- Put acrylic in place in sump for probes/float switches
- Get circuits ran for system (Still have to get friend come over and do this. Kind of put this off but can run the system until all the circuits are in place with a couple extension cords)
- Get Apex unit in place with all switches/probes
- Refill system with saltwater!

 

[Dustin1300]

Was planning on draining the whole system tonight but bought wrong sized fitting to finish off the draining. Got the QT system plumbed and hung the light above the frag tank.

Now the rooms lit by well enough by the fixtures alone

Fish QT tank plumbed and filled to do water test.

Filling QT is as easy as flipping the valve open on manifold:

Drilled the glass on the side of the Fish QT to put in bulkhead to drain tank. As easy as flipping another valve!

 

[Dustin1300]

I also heard back from Apollo Reef LEDs tonight and they recommended 6 fixtures for DT and 2 fixtures for the frag tank. Said low light corals on the edges of the tank but could put SPS in 90% of the tank. At the price of Apex module and 2 fixtures that's only $898 to light frag tank and I could ditch the MH/T5 combo and recover nearly half of that. That's also roughly $2500 to light the DT which is a much better number than the Radion. Choices, choices, choices! If I love the coloration of the Apollo fixture I'm not so sure I need the bells/whistles the Radion has.

Another LED fixture has been brought to my attention too and really looks tempting so it's really hard to tell. I think I might have to plan a trip to MACNA this year so I can check out all the fixtures and see which ones are the best and if anything new is coming out beginning of next year. Until then I'll be doing the rest of the planning/building of the frag system, basement, and then DT!

 

[Dustin1300]

Sunday hope to wrap up the last of my week's 'To Do List' as I'll be away tomorrow. I just wrapped up mounting the acrylic holders for the probes/float switches. :

Next Steps Left:

- Get circuits ran for system (Still have to get friend come over and do this. Kind of put this off but can run the system until all the circuits are in place with a couple extension cords so I split it between 2 15 amp circuits)
- Get Apex unit in place with all switches/probes
- Refill system with saltwater!

I'll try to get the Apex unit mounted and some of the probes switches set up first thing in morning before I leave for the day and I'll try to get some pics up afterwords.

 

[Dustin1300]

Got the brackets secured with a final coat of weld on # 16 along with probes/ground probe in place. Just started the RO/DI at 6:45 EST. We'll see if my 100 GPD unit puts out 100 GPD

Brackets/Probe in place (Still not putting PH probe in until filled with salt water:

First of the water feeding in!!! Can't wait until I can say I'm doing this with the DT

 

[Dustin1300]

Still 'patiently' awaiting the system to fill. Once I get that 600 DT in place and start filling I'm not sure what I'll do!

While waiting for water to fill today I cleaned up the basement/fish room of all my tools that have accumulated over the past couple of weeks. After doing that quite a while ran and got Cat6e cable to run to the Apex Controller and have got most of the programming in place the past couple of hours. I guess I'm glad I think somewhat like a programmer as I can say they really need a much easier interface for most:hmm3:

Now that that's done I'm still waiting on EB4 and breakout box to come in but was thinking of the uses I'll currently be getting out of the breakout box. I want to do a couple floor sensors that tie into the breakout box....Does anyone have any recommendations on a good floor sensor(s) that I could use?

I already had a 44 gallon brute half full of ro/di as well as another half full of saltwater. Those combined helped to produce better water and this morning I started getting a TDS of 1 so I changed out my carbon, sedimet, and DI filters and seem to be getting a little more water. Estimate tomorrow I'll have enough water and the wife is in charge of watching while I'm at work!

Taken about a 1/2 hour ago: