A Reefaholic's 1000+ Gallon Mixed Reef System Build

BeanAnimal said:
Input into magnum power filter with filter fabric, floss and then into 6' tall skimmer that discharges into 5 micron bag.

I have been using it for a while and recently (last week) almost killed my Scopas Tang:

I just got finished writing down my thoughts.... off to a job site, but will be more than happy to pass on any information I have (not much other than what I already wrote).

http://www.beananimal.com/articles/lanthanum-chloride-and-tangs.aspx
Click to expand...

I appreciate the drop in Bean and will say I appreciate your site and the many contributions you've made the the hobby, especially including your overflow:)

From my observations of the one treatment I made the Kole Yellow Eye Tang (Ctenochaetus strigosus) did not show any signs of stress but I'll continue to monitor him as he's only been in my system for about 3 weeks. I don't think I'll want to administer this method 100% of the time but when phophate issues get out of control I'm not sure what road I'll take.

You mentioned in the bottom of the article that you've adjusted your strategy? Have you stopped the use of lanthanum chloride or have you just changed your dosage? How do you drip the LaCl3? Where do you drip the LaCl3 into your skimmer?

Lessons learned from my first dosage:

- Decrease dosage. - Cloudiness in water should not be present so I'm guessing this has to do with how fast I dosed (and possibly my skimmer not kicking back on). Drop it from 5 mL LaCl3 / 1 L RO/DI to 2 mL of LaCl3 / 2 L RO/DI.
- Tap off manifold. - Control of the flow and I can this will give me more time for contact time with the water and dialing back flow should sock start clogging.
- Double Up Socks - Decreases chances of precipitate leaving the sock to the system.
 
Thanks for the kind words :)

When I first started, I was dosing 1ml (full strength) right into the magnum 350 that feeds the skimmer and placing the 5 micron sock on the output. That said, my levels were OVER 1ppm (no typo!) and the stuff reacted fast. The brown sludge coated the inside of the magnum, the skimmer and the sock. I did this once or twice a weel and got the levels knocked down to .08 or so.

I used GFO (lots of it) to keep the levels between .08 and .04 or so. Sometimes (maybe every other week) I would give the magnum a small shot (maybe .5ml) of lacl. The problem was (is) that I can't keep the levels below .08 or so without it.

In an effort to rid the rock of the accumulated phosphate (gfo is not working fast enough). I decided to dose daily and that is when the problems occured.

New method... I am going to further dilute the stuff and drip it into the magnum intake so that I am doing less than .1ml a day. The goal is to monitor the phosphate and keep it from rising. If it begins to drop over a few weeks, then I know I am doing more than the GFO was and helping to pull it from the rock. If there are ANY signs of tang stress, I am done with the stuff and will replace ALL of my rock.
 
BeanAnimal said:
I need to make sure that there is no misunderstanding. I have no hard (scientific) proof that it is just "Zebrasoma" that is affected, or if Lanthanum Chloride is in fact the culprit. My observations align with those of others who have posted similar anecdotal warnings.

My thoughts are that it could be as complicated as the fact that MOST dogs are not harmed by eating a grape or two, but some breeds will drop over dead if they eat one.... No idea.

5 and 10 micron socks are available on ebay (Duda Diesel for example) and many other places. I think they help, but my best advice would be to prevent free Lanthanum (unreacted) from entering the system at all. This means only using it in cases where phosphates are higher than say 0.1 ppm. At lower concentrations the Lanthanum may not "find" the phosphate fast enough and will end up flowing through the system.
Click to expand...

Duda diesel is exactly where I got my socks: http://www.ebay.com/itm/230743455125?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3241wt_1163

Regarding the .1 ppm comment, I'd say that aligns with why my water was cloudy during treatment. If the water has phosphate to bind to then the precipitate would have collected in my sock before leaving. I did not observe any precipitate in the system but that's not to say that it's not there. If that's the case, I'm trying to think of additional ways to increase the contact time and volume of water in a reservoir or tank. Then have that tank dump into a sock....
 
Steel Stand Painting....

Steel Stand Painting....

I've settled on using black Herculiner for the steel stand and will be prepping with wire brush on my drill/angle grinder as well as acetone wash. My only last concern I want to address is filling the area between where the steel tubes meet where I doubled up on them. Should I fill this with something like J-B Weld or do you think the Herculiner is thick enough that the "gap" will be filled? Any caulk gun loadable material I could use that is much like J-B Weld that I could easily run a line along the joint?

I just don't want moisture to build up over time so it'd be nice to have that extra bit of insurance;)
 
Just spent over an hour grinding down and doing more prepwork on the stand. Most of the surface rust is knocked off and I'll have another night of grinding and sanding. Once I have that done, I'm going to clean up the grooves between the two steel tubes with acetone and then use BONDO between the cracks. I'll just pack it in there with a spackling knife, sand it down, and then do a whole stand wash down with acetone before doing the Herculiner.

This will make for a nice clean finish to the stand and will ensure moisture does not make it between the pieces. :smokin: Now someone out there is sure to poke a hole in my theory, right?

20120822_190159.jpg
 
There is a product that I got from home depot that is a sealant that i used at the base of my stand. It resembles a look like silicone. I wished I saved the container. It works really well.
 
Stand looks great! :) I don't see why Bondo woudn't work in your case. If it works on rebuilding panels on cars I don't see why it wouldn't work perfect for an under-body for your stand. I've used it to fill dents in metal doors before painting, works perfect. ;)
 
I think the Bondo should work out for the purpose. Still have not got ETA on the Herculiner so I've got time to get it done....I just walked around Lowes for 30 minutes trying to find the right thing to use and this made the most sense as its going to be solid and not flex like any of the normal caulking.

Random pic of the day....Nem in a shell? Found in frag tank and glued to a frag plug. Posted in nem forum hoping for ID and think it's a majano but kind of funny:)

20120811_213620.jpg
 
Dustin1300 said:
I think the Bondo should work out for the purpose. Still have not got ETA on the Herculiner so I've got time to get it done....I just walked around Lowes for 30 minutes trying to find the right thing to use and this made the most sense as its going to be solid and not flex like any of the normal caulking.

Random pic of the day....Nem in a shell? Found in frag tank and glued to a frag plug. Posted in nem forum hoping for ID and think it's a majano but kind of funny:)

20120811_213620.jpg
Click to expand...

Just an idea. I have the liner that they use for showers from home depot under my 225 now and I will use it under my new build also.


Sent from my iPhone using Siri and Tapatalk.
 
Shower Liner

Shower Liner

This is what I'm talking about. It's a grey liner.
aee4caa8-7e1f-c8a5.jpg


Sorry for the rust stains. I inadvertently did a wet test on the liner.


Sent from my iPhone using Siri and Tapatalk.
 
I'm glad my wife does not follow this thread. With a recent RO/DI reservoir mishap she might say I need to line the whole fish room with shower liner;)
 
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