Aack! How do I save my tank!?

p3pp3rdog

New member
Hello fish buddies! :)

I'm a brand spanking new member and this is my first ever post. Primarily because I have a bit of a problem.... OK, it's a big problem for me. Before I get started, here is my tank info:

(2) 2.5" False Percula Clowns (They are the infected)

30 gal w/ over-the-side carbon and Nitra-zorb filter
Over-the-side protein skimmer w/ UV light
Propeller pump for flow
20+ pounds of very live rock (feather dusters, bristleworms, etc..)
Live sand w/ some sort of burrowing worms (not bristleworms)
Small coral polyp group (Likely diseased, as I lost a much larger group to some weird white fungus about 2 months ago)
(1) 3" Yellow Tang
(1) 2.5" Firefish Goby
(1) 2" Sixline Wrasse
(3) 1.5" Yellowtail Blue Damsels
(2) Peppermint shrimp
(5) Turbo snails
(2) Nasarius Snails

One of my Clownfish, had been acting somewhat strange. I watched it for awhile, and saw it begin to get worse over a period of about a week. Eventually, it was digging in the sand in one corner, then lying on its side and breathing extremely hard. I bought a 10 gal tank for a hospital tank, and filled it approximately 50% of the way with my DT water. I had also added some live sand to keep it like home(I realize now that I may have wasted my money there) and 2 pieces of live rock (complete with bristleworms). Since my Clowns were very close (the apparently healthy one was constantly nudging the sick one and trying to keep it moving!), I put both of them in the hospital tank. I treated the HT with Coppersafe and Nitrofurazone. Now I realize that I probably wasted some Coppersafe, and screwed up some sand and rock.... What can I say... I'm new....

Anyway, I have noticed that the first Clown to be infected is now obviously blind, and it has 2 tiny white spots on it. They could almost be grains of sand, except they have been there for too long. This fish was lying on the bottom gasping for breath and about to die before the Coppersafe started to work. Now it seems to be almost ok, after 3 days of treatment. Almost... It's blind and can't eat right, even though I can see that it wants to eat, and now is a little bit active even though it bumps into rocks and sometimes confuses the side of the tank for the bottom. Unfortunately, the "healthy" clown is starting to show white dots as well.

Here is my concern: I have many other fish which I want to keep safe, well, and healthy. I realize that I may very well have to hospitalize all of them for 8+ weeks and am ok with that. However, my big question is: How do I create a healthy environment in a new and uncycled tank? If I transfer some of the DT water to the HT, then it's infected. What should I do? Transfer water now and treat it with Coppersafe or Malachite Green/Formalin as long as I can before I see sickness in the rest of the fish? Do I have to worry about the "new" tank cycling?
 
Is this a new DT? I assume you didn't quarantine your livestock before adding them. If you have marine ich, I would definitely catch all my fish (inverts are not hosts to ich) and place them in a hospital tank. Best method for me to treat my fish for ich is using copper. Hypo salinity works as well and is better from health standpoint but if you add copper right, it works like a charm.

In my experience, I ended up completely breaking down the whole system and starting over again. I quarantined my fish for 8 weeks before adding them back into my "fallow" DT. This ended up being a futile effort bec ich was still present. Like most everyone in this hobby, I learned the hard way.

NOW I QT ALL my livestock. It's just not worth it. Wisdom comes with experience. Really smart people learn from others mistakes and patience is a virtue. That's true wisdom in this hobby. Good luck!
 
If the clowns are still showing ich in the qt it's because the lr and live sand are absorbing most of the Ci. A test kit is required. All fish from the DT need to be removed and treated while the DT is fishless 12 weeks. A QT IMO is more important than any other peice of equipment, in that if you don't have healthy fish in the DT the odds are against you in staying in the hobby long term.
 
No, It's not a new DT. Not very new anyway. I've had it up and running for about 6 months. Since I bought the tank from my neighbor, I kept the water he had been using, and transferred it to my place in buckets.

My major concern here is concerning the water. Should I transfer 50% of the contaminated water to a new , bare HT (I'm gonna need a bigger one than 10 gallons for all of the fish) and treat the fish appropriately there, while fallowing the DT? I don't think I want to start the new HT off with brand new water. Do I? I understand that the Nitrate/Nitrite spikes are usually lethal to all but the hardiest of fish.
 
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Regardless of DT water or new water, neither has anything to do with ammonia control. Water does not cycle. You'll need an established filter of some sort. Instant Ocean bio-spira works great in doing so.
 
I would start HT with at least 50% DT water...but like above poster mentioned, you need a filter or frequent water changes in the HT. I had a similar experience, moved my 5 fish to a HT (a 10gal coleman cooler with DT water, airstone & spongefilter, power head, and clean pvc pipe for hiding) They did not respond well, stopped eating and all ended up dying. I probably overdosed. I then fallowed my tank (no fish) for about 14 weeks. My tank today is thriving, no sign of ich since! Good luck, this is no fun
 
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