AC Jr sufficient?

vthondaboi

Premium Member
Can this basically turn/on off TWO heaters and a fan depending on temperature?

Also can it turn on/off three different lights at three different times each day.

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=NS1161

The desciprtion mentions:
Up to 3 Direct Connect 4s (DC4) or Direct Connect 4 Heavy Dutys (DC4HD) can be used with the AquaController Jr if a hardwired control solution is desired. The DC4s connect directly to the AquaController through a standard 4 conductor telephone cable. With 3 DC4HD connected 12 different devices can be controlled independently, with a maximum total power dissappation of approximately 3 * 120 * 15 = 5400 Amps.

Is the DC8 that comes with the unit fine? Can I connect more than one DC8 to the unit or do I have to use multiple DC4s or DC4HDs?
 
The DC8 can be daisy chained so yes, you can connect multiple units. Do research your limit. I know the ACII can control up to 32 outlets, but not sure if the ACJR can do the same.

Carlos
 
Watch out on the maximum amps per plug. I found ouot from Neptune that because of the high load of my lamps, I HAVE to use the DC4 HD which means I need 3 of them!--J
 
The current limits on number of independently controlled items is:

ACJr - 12
AC2 - 20
ACPRO - 20
AC3PRO - 30 (soon to be dramatically increased).

Curt
 
can you imagine controlling 30+ units??? I need the Pro III mostly for it's connectivity, but I do want to control more than 1 tank as well.--J
 
With an AC Jr and an existing DC8, can you add another DC8 (and only control the first 4 plugs, of course) or do you have to purchase a DC4 ?

I ask because I eventually plan to upgrade the controller to an II Pro (emphasis on eventually) and want to position the rest of my equiptment/power strips/etc.
 
Tom, I have been thinking about the same (possibly upgrading later): PA told me yesterday that you can use 2 DC8s with the Jr (only using 4 of the outlets on one of the 8s... or 6 on each). Unfortunately for me, I still need the DC4HD because of the chiller.

As far as the first question: "Can this basically turn/on off TWO heaters and a fan depending on temperature?" Couldn't you just add a normal outlet strip (Home Depot) to the ONE outlet that is controlled so that you could control the TWO heaters (since they would be controlled with the exact same configuration)? Given of course that the total number of Amps for that controlled outlet still did not exceed 6.
 
plaz said:
Tom, I have been thinking about the same (possibly upgrading later): PA told me yesterday that you can use 2 DC8s with the Jr (only using 4 of the outlets on one of the 8s... or 6 on each). Unfortunately for me, I still need the DC4HD because of the chiller.

As far as the first question: "Can this basically turn/on off TWO heaters and a fan depending on temperature?" Couldn't you just add a normal outlet strip (Home Depot) to the ONE outlet that is controlled so that you could control the TWO heaters (since they would be controlled with the exact same configuration)? Given of course that the total number of Amps for that controlled outlet still did not exceed 6.


Good gravy, what size chiller do you run ?!?! :eek1:

:)

As for 2 heaters, I had something a little different in mind myself, and I know it will work. I plan to have my temperature set up to control 2 heaters, fans and a chiller... if the temp drops to, say, 78.5, heater one would come on, if it still drops to 78, then heater 2 would (for those extra cold, but rare, days). And again on the high side, at a set temp the fans would kick on and a little higher the chiller would.

About a power strip from Home Depot to be used to power more than 1 heater.. at 6 amps that would come out to just over 600 - 660 watts of heater total. Which should be enough for most people :)
 
Sparkss said:
I ask because I eventually plan to upgrade the controller to an II Pro (emphasis on eventually) and want to position the rest of my equiptment/power strips/etc.

I would suggest that if you intend to upgrade to the II pro, then skip the Jr and go directly to the II pro. It will be a lot cheaper in the long run. I am saying this from personal experiance. I was very hesitant in purchasing the AC3pro over an AC2Pro, but I am very glad I went with the AC3pro. You would keep regretting the purchase and wished you had bought what you really wanted the first time.
 
Actually I meant the III Pro... I typoed and left a I off.

The Jr combo with the DC8 is barely $100 more than a DC8 by itself (less if you don't get backlit). But it will allow me to get my DC strips and programming set up for when I have the money to move into a III Pro. It will be long enough in the future that the $100 will be justifyable and I will more than get my monies worth out of the Jr. :)
 
I wonder if the DC8 can handle a plug that has 2 175W MH on a magnetic ballast?

It's an old Hamilton fixture BTW.

I'd love to get an AC 3 Pro for it's connectivity. But I don't use PH and ORP stuff. Not sure what ORP is anyways. =P

Now if there was a cheap way to monitor calcium and alkalinity then let me know as that'd be the bomb for an SPS tank.
 
define "cheap" ... Thre is the American Marine Pinpoint Calcium monitor for around $300 and I thought I read about an ALK meter also, or one of these controllers that also handles ALK (hardness)

As for your two lights... check the ballast and see what the amp rating is on them (should be a sticker somewhere with that info), then check the specs on the DC8 and DC4HD for per outlet capacity :)
 
The III Pro doesn't monitor calcium?

I hear you about the ORP, but essentially it is a function of dissolved oxygen I believe. Supposedly it will help clarify the water and makes the skimmer working more efficiently. I see them on higher end reef systems and I think that's because of the SPS populations.

Anyone with more input?--J
 
ACIII Pro

Monitor pH, ORP, Temperature, Conductivity and Dissolved Oxygen
The base unit includes software which is capable of monitoring pH, ORP, temperature, conductivity and dissolved oxygen. The monitored data is continuously displayed on the large LCD display and also logged into the internal RAM for later retrieval. All probes support digital calibration.

Control pH, ORP, Temperature, Conductivity and Dissolved Oxygen
The AquaController III Pro also contains the functionality to control the pH, ORP, temperature, conductivity and dissolved oxygen in your tank. The standard control functions for the monitored parameters listed above are possible.


Nada on the calcium. And bear in mind that the Dissolved Oxygen probe runs around $500, give or take.

ORP is more an indicator of how your take is doing, but every tank is different (as to what the "best" ORP reading is).

I got this posting about general ORP levels from another thread :


Very little will be alive : below 100 millivolt
Very Bad : below 140 millivolt
Bad : 140 to 180 millivolt
Poor : 180 to 200 millivolt
Too Low : 200 to 220 millivolt
New salt water : 220 to 240 millivolt
Low : 220 to 270 millivolt
Medium : 270 to 310 millivolt
Good : 310 to 340 millivolt
Better : 340 to 360 millivolt
Best : 360 to 390 millivolt
High : 390 to 450 millivolt
Too high : over 450 millivolt
Dangerous : over 525 millivolt
Very dangerous : over 575 millivolt

Hope it helps :)
 
I guess I am a bit confused on this. I see Ozone generators that cost quite a bit less than the probe cost you mention and the instructions say to configure it to the ORP setpoint you want. Maybe they don't measure ORP? Are these 2 different things that I am mixing together?--J
 
ORP measures redox, dissolved oxygen is a different reading. To be honest, I am not sure of the main difference, but I do know that they are different,

Redox - reduction + oxidation : of or relating to oxidation-reduction
 
thanks for that double talk:fun5: ...I have no idea what you just wrote, although I did find it amusing. My stroke has left me a bit impaired so I have to laugh when things go over my head. --J
 
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