Accuracy of Ranco Digital Controllers

I agree they are never going to be 100% accurate but nothing in its price range would be. Ranco's are industrial controllers, thats their biggest appeal and the reason they are so reliable. We are performing the same demanding tasks that they are designed to to do.
They are just plain one of the best products out there for the job and beat anthing made for the aquarium industry hands down.

Don
 
Shop Around

Shop Around

There are many aquarium electronics, such as pH meters, salinity monitors, and temperature controllers that can be calibrated dead-on with reference fluids or glass thermometers. Accuracy is usually not an issue unless you have a device, such as the Ranco ETC, that cannot be field-calibrated and cannot be corrected for drift.

Per Honey Run Apiaries, the distributors of the Ranco ETC, one source of inaccuracy is the electrical source. Household voltage can vary with locale and circuit voltage can vary with power-hungry appliances. The standards for household wiring are not as stringent as those for commercial wiring where HVAC circuits are often isolated.

Another source of inaccuracy is the temperature range supported. The Ranco supports a wide 250 degree (-30 to +220) range. Other controllers support a narrower range that serves to lessen the potential error.

Here’s a cheap temperature control system that rivals the Ranco ETC: a glass thermometer and two small Eheim Jager heaters, each delivering about 1 watt/gallon. The heaters can be calibrated periodically with the thermometer and you have limited protection from a single heater failure.

Why is this important? It is because many aquarists want to use their controllers as thermometers and because the competition offers controllers that can be field-calibrated for accuracy. You have lots of choices (http://www.aquariumcontrollers.com/), so shop around this holiday season!
 
There are many aquarium electronics, such as pH meters, salinity monitors, and temperature controllers that can be calibrated dead-on with reference fluids or glass thermometers. Accuracy is usually not an issue unless you have a device, such as the Ranco ETC, that cannot be field-calibrated and cannot be corrected for drift.
You keep insisting that field calibration is important and that is simply not at all true.

We are shooting for a broad target PJF, not an exact temperature. How many times and ways does this have to be explained.

Per Honey Run Apiaries, the distributors of the Ranco ETC, one source of inaccuracy is the electrical source. Household voltage can vary with locale and circuit voltage can vary with power-hungry appliances. The standards for household wiring are not as stringent as those for commercial wiring where HVAC circuits are often isolated.
What nonsense. How does the code being more "stringent" affect the load? Secondly, residential and commercial are under the same code and for the most part differ very little with regard to circuit topology.

But now that you opened the can of worms, lets look at your statement in a little more detail! You list yourself as an Electrical Engineer and should therefore know that a commercial facility has a much more diverse power signature than any home. Harmonics due to ballasts, transformers, large motors, shared neutrals and ground loops are very commonplace. You blowing smoke if you want us to believe that the RANCO will be more accurate on a dedicated commercial HVAC circuit as opposed to a home shared circuit. Honestly, PJF you should know better. This is getting silly and you should be ashamed of even making such an assertion.

Another source of inaccuracy is the temperature range supported. The Ranco supports a wide 250 degree (-30 to +220) range. Other controllers support a narrower range that serves to lessen the potential error.
Now we are grasping at straws aren't we! How many times do we have to go over this. WHO CARES ABOUT THE ERROR, IT IS INSIGNIFICANT IN THE SCOPE OF OUR SYSTEMS! As mentioned the error is +/- 1 degree. Who cares.

Here’s a cheap temperature control system that rivals the Ranco ETC: a glass thermometer and two small Eheim Jager heaters, each delivering about 1 watt/gallon. The heaters can be calibrated periodically with the thermometer and you have limited protection from a single heater failure.
No PJF, it does not come close to rivaling the RANCO's reliability or ease of use. Using a RANCO with (2) small heaters is the best option. There is no need to calibrate the heaters or the RANCO. Simply set the RANCO and adjust the knobs on the heaters to just slightly above the point where the RANCO turns them off. You now have a failsafe system that has at least 2 layers of over temperature protection. Do we have to argue this again as well? Do we need to point out that your rival system relies on the thermostats in the heaters and that alone makes the setup MUCH more failure prone? Do we have to point out that using the RANCO to turn the heaters on and off is magnitudes more reliable than relying on the internal thermostats. Why do I have to point out the same flawed logic over and over?

Why is this important? It is because many aquarists want to use their controllers as thermometers and because the competition offers controllers that can be field-calibrated for accuracy. You have lots of choices (http://www.aquariumcontrollers.com/), so shop around this holiday season!
It is only important if you feel that you need to know the EXACT temperature of your water. I can sleep well knowing that my tank is 80 +/- 1 degree. My fish don't care, nor do I. There are much more important things to worry about than a few tenths of a degree. Do you send your lab thermometer off to be tested against a certified standard? I mean if your going through all the trouble of calibration, then you should do it right! I have been accused of over thinking things, but this honestly takes the cake.

Shall we talk about the fact that a RANCO is more reliable than an aquarium controller? That can be very easily shown. Do we need to mention that a RANCO is around $75 new and you can't shake a stick at an aquarium controller for that?

Shall we put this silly thread to rest now?
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11237786#post11237786 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
As mentioned the error is +/- 1 degree.
Per the distributor of the Ranco ETC, Honey Run Apiaries, the error can be larger depending on variations in the electrical source. If you disagree, please argue with the distributor.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11237786#post11237786 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Shall we talk about the fact that a RANCO is more reliable than an aquarium controller? That can be very easily shown.
Then it should be easy to post links to support your statements.

Whether you agree with Honey Run Apiaries or not, my recommendation is to "shop around." There are plenty of choices for aquarium temperature controls. The Eheim Jager heaters are cheap and have something the Ranco does not have. They can be calibrated.
 
It is frustrating that you ignore any point that shows you to be wrong and instead try to change the argument to an irrelevant tangent.

Per the distributor of the Ranco ETC, Honey Run Apiaries, the error can be larger depending on variations in the electrical source. If you disagree, please argue with the distributor.
Once again PJF you have quoted a source and taken it out of context to benefit your argument.

Lets take this IN CONTEXT:

1) Who said I disagreed with the concept that power quality could affect the unit? Power quality affects ALL electronics PJF. Your 120V wall clock is affected, your digital clocks are affected. The scan rate on your TV is affected. Just about any device that uses an analog probe will be affected by the input source. Your an EE PJF, you know (should know?) that the RANCO and every other analog probe is a simple voltage/current comparator and thus affected by the source supply.

Of course we can build around the problem and design a unit with MORE precision and de-couple it from source problems. It is pointless as already shown here and in other threads.

2) The BIGGER problem is that you have taken a fact and then twisted it around your own deceptive reasoning. You said [SIC] "The problem will be more prevalent in a home environment due to power problems that are not present in commercial environments where the code is much stricter and the unit will be on a dedicated HVAC circuit." That is complete and utter nonsense. You know it, I know it, and any person that knows anything about electricity knows it. Did you throw it out there thinking we were all stupid?

Lets be clear so that the othe readers are not deceived by your comments:
Folks, Commercial/Industrial power is almost always MUCH worse than what you have flowing out of your homes panel. The spikes, harmonics, phase anomalies, ground loops, and unfiltered noise are a constant battle in commercial facilities. That is EXACTLY why RANCOS and similar industrial/commercial equipment are built so bulletproof.

So no, I have no argument with "Honey Run Apiares". My argument is with your distortion of facts and subsequent application of your derived truth.

Then it should be easy to post links to support your statements.
Who needs links to understand basic logic? We go through this exercise over and over.

Lets give it a try again: (We did this in 2 other threads).

1A) A RANCO is a dedicated temperature controller. It does one thing and does it well. It has a supply input, a load output and a probe input. That is (3) interfaces that could contribute to, or cause a failure.

1B) An "aquarium controller" has at least 1 supply input, several load outputs and several probe inputs. There are MANY interfaces that could contribute to, or cause a failure. The unit is simply MORE exposed.

This is basic design logic and as an EE you know (should know) it. The more nodes that are tied to a system, the greater chance the system has to fail.

The argument is over already, as the point has been made. But lets go on.

2A) The RANCO is hard coded with the only user input being set points. There is little room for user error. The driving variable is the single probe input. Bugs are easy to find and remove because the code is fixed and simple.

2B) The aquarium controller is scriptable with user input. There are MANY intertwined aspects of the units operation and the source code is much more complex. There are MANY driving variables that interact with the code. These include multiple inputs and user crafted scripts. This is a complex system that is MUCH more prone to firmware bugs AND human errors in programming logic. Debugging is much harder as all interactions can not be predicted. Human programming error is also a large problem (remember those complex interaction?).

The is really over, as the point has been succinctly made. But lets go on.

3A) The RANCO has a rather small component count and is made to withstand rugged commercial/industrial use. The circuit design is mature and proven. Low component count and robust circuit design mean low failure rates.

3B) The aquarium controller has a MUCH higher component count, much of it delicate. The circuits are NOT designed around rugged commercial/industrial use and do not have a long track record. On the contrary some units are very prone to outside interference from ballasts and lighting.

You list yourself as an EE, this stuff SHOULD be common sense to you PJF. I am baffled that somebody with your credentials would continue to make the arguments that you make.

Whether you agree with Honey Run Apiaries or not, my recommendation is to "shop around." There are plenty of choices for aquarium temperature controls. The Eheim Jager heaters are cheap and have something the Ranco does not have. They can be calibrated.
We have already covered each of those statements. Calibration is certainly not important, nor is the fact that your mains power can affect the operation of electronics.

Time to pack this one in PJF.
 
does it seem to anyone else that PJF is trolling to get a reaction. Hey, if he wants to heat his investment with a bulb thermometer and a bi-metal jager thermostat I personally could care less and he gets what he deserves.

-J
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11238490#post11238490 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pjf
Per the distributor of the Ranco ETC, Honey Run Apiaries, the error can be larger depending on variations in the electrical source. If you disagree, please argue with the distributor.


Then it should be easy to post links to support your statements.

Whether you agree with Honey Run Apiaries or not, my recommendation is to "shop around." There are plenty of choices for aquarium temperature controls. The Eheim Jager heaters are cheap and have something the Ranco does not have. They can be calibrated.

EJ heater cannot be calibrated, you can use a seperate thermometer and adjust the temperature for differential. This is a feature built into the ranco. One reason the ranco is such a popular option is due to the large deree of failures in the aquarium heater in gerneral to include EJ.

Its a temp controller nothing more. Adjust the differential and its perfect, it will do its job which is to control temp nothing more.

Don
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11239342#post11239342 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by miatawnt2b
does it seem to anyone else that PJF is trolling to get a reaction.
-J
Yes. Judging by his posting style in several threads, it seems his hobby is more "the debate club", than reefkeeping.
 
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The Eheim Jager can be calibrated by prying the blue button upwards to free the selector disk. The complete instructions are here: http://www.boroniaaquarium.com.au/n...etterSession=7c5a8ab1545a1745e6514e6d836edb6f

If the EJ is not your solution for whatever reason, alternative aquarium controllers can be found at this website: http://www.aquariumcontrollers.com/. Many controllers can be calibrated to avoid issues with accuracy. Calibration requires liquid-in-glass thermometers because they are not prone to drifting as electronic thermostats are.

The originators of this thread have valid concerns over the accuracy of the Ranco ETC and many solutions have been proposed and debated. As for those who wish to cut off debate, there is a simple solution: instead of hijacking this thread, you can start your own thread. Then you will have no reason to be so unhappy this Thanksgiving season. If you are good, maybe Santa Claus will get you a controller that can be calibrated for accuracy.:D
 
I do not know the inticate detail of the Ranco digital temp. controller like Mr. Bean (smart man by the way). But I can attest to the reliability and accuracy of this temp. controller. Bean is correct even if it is .5 deg. off it will still register as 1 deg. who cares. Bi-metal in my opinion is rubbish. Eventually the bi-metal will weaken because the flex characteristic over time will degrade. Whereas the Ranco temp. controller is a pretty much set and forget. I have install this temp. controller in various meat plants and commercial walk in chill/ freezers, high humidty and low humdity conditions. Day in day out workers are require to log temperatures through out the day. When I go to do monthly service I always check the months log to see any changes in temperature. Well, the customers with the Ranco controller are pretty much spot on with 1 deg off of actual set point. Thats pretty damn good if you ask me. The customer with the mechanical style thermostat at best 4 deg of actual set point. I'll spend my $80 on the Ranco thats for sure.
 
As for those who wish to cut off debate, there is a simple solution: instead of hijacking this thread, you can start your own thread
Nobody has hijacked the thread. The OP's question was answered. Nobody wants debate cut off. The reality is that you hands down lost the debate. Each and every point you made has been addresses. Many of your arguements were so bad that even YOU have abandoned them.

The OP WROTE:
Can anybody vouch for the accuracy of the Ranco Dual Stage Digital Controllers. I find a lot of these digital type controllers/monitors are really innacurate, often 2-3 degrees off in terms of temperature measurement.
Myself and SEVERAL others "vouched" for the accuracy of the unit. I CLEARLY explained how accurate it is and what margin of error to expect. The +/- 1 degree accuracy number came right from an INVENSYS engineer. I clearly showed how the error coupled with the hysteresis and full digit display would affect the readings. Because it was not "linked to" you ignored the points and continued to troll.

In addition to vouching for the accuracy, I clearly explained that it is not that important to be 100% accurate in the scheme of things. Your response was to ignore the facts and make up nonsense to back your point. Make no mistake, your reasoning was complete and utter nonsense and as an EE you know it.

Honestly, you have tried to assert that the bi-metal thermostats in hobby heaters are as reliable as an industrial temperature controller. You have insulted the intelligence of even the most novice of sparkys by trying to put forth the notion that household power is less suitable for electronics than that in a commercial building. You have insisted (here and in many other threads) that calibration is a MUST for reef keeping. And the list goes on...

I am certainly not unhappy this Thanksgiving and I certainly do not need a calibrated temperature controller. It makes me feel good to help people by providing good, fact based, logically sound information.

See you in the next thread.
 
Controllers as Thermometers

Controllers as Thermometers

For those that use their temperature controllers as thermometers, I recommend the following features:

(1) LED - In a dark cabinet, an LCD can be hard to read. LED displays are easier to read. Some controllers display to the tenth of a degree.

(2) Calibration - This feature allows you to set your controller "dead-on" to the temperature measured by your liquid-in-glass thermometer. Electronic devices are prone to drift and may be subject to variations in your electrical supply. Note that there are a lot of anecdotal claims to the accuracy of controllers but little hard data. Why pay a lot for something that cannot be corrected?

Shop around!
 
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So RANCOS are not suitable because they are not backlit? Where do we get a glass thermometer with a backlight!

FWIW, It is easy to put a light in the stand or equipment room. I may just have to put a light in my RANCO! Thanks for the idea :)

Your second point about calibration has been covered ad nauseam.

The quality of the electrical service affecting readings is more than a stretch and you should be embarrassed as an EE to continue to claim any differently.

The need for dead-on readings is also non-existent and has been covered several times.

As for "anecdotal" evidence, my numbers came from an INVENSYS engineer and are supported by the "anecdotal" numbers as reported by others.

Being dead-on is not even a remote requirement for reef keeping. RELIABILITY is infinitely more important.

If you want to be dead-on nobody is stopping you. If you wish to keep trolling for a respone, be my guest. I can kindly respond to them all day long. The answers help others to understand the subject further.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11243896#post11243896 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pjf
The Eheim Jager can be calibrated by prying the blue button upwards to free the selector disk. The complete instructions are here: http://www.boroniaaquarium.com.au/n...etterSession=7c5a8ab1545a1745e6514e6d836edb6f

D

Well I'll be damned open mouth insert foot. I appologize I did not realize what was under that little cap. Guess thats what the instruction manual was for.

But since were discussing accuracy and calibration. The use of a controller with a tenth digit is really nothing more than a selling feature and does not make it accurate. The mothods we use for calibration is not accurate to one tenth of a degree. The ice water method will get you to within one degree either direction. Even the low end $3K thermocouple calbration devices are only accurate to 1 degree C. The freezing point of pure h20 is 32 degrees any impurity changes that slightly.

This is one of the points that Bean was trying to get across. It doesnt matter what you use its not going to be accurate to one tenth of a degree as assumed. Its just plain close enough for our aquariums.

Don
 
Very true, Donw.

Nevertheless, a wise consumer should know what he is paying for. Most aquarists also use their controllers in place of thermometers so the accuracy of the display is desired even if exact temperature control is not paramount.

Here are two simple questions to ask any temperature controller manufacturer:

(1) Is the controller factory-calibrated with the temperature probe in place?
(2) Does replacement of the probe require re-calibration?

The answers to these two questions can be more revealing than any “How accurate is your product?” question.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11260340#post11260340 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pjf
Very true, Donw.

Nevertheless, a wise consumer should know what he is paying for. Most aquarists also use their controllers in place of thermometers so the accuracy of the display is desired even if exact temperature control is not paramount.

Here are two simple questions to ask any temperature controller manufacturer:

(1) Is the controller factory-calibrated with the temperature probe in place?
(2) Does replacement of the probe require re-calibration?

The answers to these two questions can be more revealing than any “How accurate is your product?” question.

In terms of the ranco what would those two questions reveal. I assume you already have the answer.?
 
I don't know what the answers are but since the Ranco ETC cannot be field-calibrated, I would think that replacement of the probe will produce a different reading. While it may still be accurate enough for temperature control, it may not inspire confidence for use as a thermometer. Who knows? Most manufacturers avoid these questions by leaving it to the consumer to re-calibrate.

Here are some liquid-in-glass thermometers that can be used to gauge the accuracy of your heaters and controller displays:

• Tropic Marin Alcohol (http://www.aquariumguys.com/thermometer1.html) - $15.99
• Sea Life Supply A-20 Mercury (http://www.sealifesupply.com/prclst2.htm) - $24
• PerformaTherm Non-Mercury (http://www.hmalabsupply.com/index.p...37fb5a209933a4e58&option=com_phpshop&Itemid=1) - $40

I’ve used the last two thermometers to calibrate my EJ heaters and Medusa controller. They also told me how far off the titanium heaters are (see Finnex heater review on Reef Central). NIST-certified versions are available but pricey ($120). The mercury thermometer was faster than the non-mercury but they matched to a tenth of a degree. There is a Reef Central review of these thermometers under "Miller & Weber OEM Thermometers."
 
A wise consumer needs to know if what he is buying will perform the task it was designed for.

Your making this so much more complicated that it needs to be.

The manufacturer has not avoided anything PJF. There is simply no need to implement a costly feature that is not needed for the desired purpose of the controllers.

Again, who cares what the dial on the heaters reads. It means nothing. You SHOULD be using a controller to run the heaters and ignore the markings on the dial.

As for changing sensors:
The RANCO can use any standard NTC thermistor that has a 30K reference resistance at 77F. This is industry standard. You have dozens (hundred?) of sensors to choose from. At such a high impedence cable length makes little difference on the reading. Cable lengths of hundreds of feet are suitble.
 
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