Accuracy of Ranco Digital Controllers

I like my Neptune Aquacontroller and my quality glass thermometer for calibration.

RANCO is a great solution for those who do not want to invest in a full controller. I would fully trust them. I would still verify it from time to time, but thats just me...

There are some misleading comments that people have used to "defend" RANCO controllers by stating that multi-controllers (that can be calibrated) are inferoir to RANCO. And, in fact, this thread has shown they do have one advantage over RANCO that will always make them very effective throughout their life. It just seemed like people were talking out of both sides of their mouth to back up arguments, and possibly creating unwarranted concern for another soltution people use.

I see absolutely no need for both.

FWIW I have never needed to adjust my AQ jr.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11262214#post11262214 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by HBtank
I like my Neptune Aquacontroller and my quality glass thermometer for calibration.
Yes the neptune products appear to be fairly stable and are improving all of the time.

RANCO is a great solution for those who do not want to invest in a full controller. I would fully trust them. I would still verify it from time to time, but thats just me...
Of course. Someplace lost in all of this back and forth is the simple fact that you should always verify that the device you have is working within it parameters. This is as simple as using a cheap (or expensive) thermometer (glass or electronic) to give a quick reference. PJF would have you believe that it is critical to have a highly accurate thermometer and a way to calibrate your controller to math that thermo.

There are some misleading comments that people have used to "defend" RANCO controllers by stating that multi-controllers (that can be calibrated) are inferior to RANCO.
If you are refering to the comments regarding a RANCO vs a ACjr, Lighthouse, etc... I would adamantly disagree. A rugged single purpose device (Be it Ranco, Love, Johnson, whatever) is more reliable than a multi-purpose device at that single task. This is the basic nature of probability and statistics as they relate to failure. Please don't confuse these comments with me saying that the ACjr or whatever is bad, that is not the intent.

Remember the dedicated controller does one thing and one thing only. It has a dedicated circuit and firmware (or logic). It has a limited number of inputs and outputs.

A multi-purpose unit has multiple inputs and outputs that create more physical exposure (shorted probes, voltage or static, environmental, RF, EMF/EMI etc). Not only are there significantly more physical exposures, but the software is much more complex in the way it deals with inputs and outputs. Add to all of this the human factor (scripting) and the rate of failure AND unintentional operating modes increase greatly.

This is not to say that the ACjr, Lighthouse, etc are not fairly reliable. You should note that even here at RC we can find many threads with reports of erratic operation ( I think a few bugs, but mostly interference from ballasts). Bugs are bugs, the more complex the device the greater the chance of bugs.

I see absolutely no need for both.
Personally, I would prefer to use the Ranco to control the temp and allow the ACjr to act as the failsafe with regard to turning things off in the event of an overexert. My DIY controller will not act as a temperature controller for the same reasons as listed above. However, I surely would not expect the average reefer to go that far. They have good reason to be comfortable with the ACjr or whatever. Used in conjection with heaters pnboard thermostats set to a failsafe temperature... there should be no problems.

As for the guy with JUST heaters and no controller.... The only good recommendation is divide the total needed wattage among 3-4 heaters so that a single stuck thermostat does not quickly drive the tank temperature up.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11261620#post11261620 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Again, who cares what the dial on the heaters reads. It means nothing. You SHOULD be using a controller to run the heaters and ignore the markings on the dial.
If your heater is set too high, it will not provide a failsafe.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11269849#post11269849 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pjf
If your heater is set too high, it will not provide a failsafe.

You simply turn the dial until the thermostat clicks. If you can;t feel or hear the click you would let the tank come to temperature (via the controleller) and plug the heater in directly (bypass the controller), turn the dial just past the point where it stops heating and then plug it back into the controller. It takes 2 seconds the first way, maybe 15 the second way. It can be done as often as makes you feel good.

Much less trouble than caibrating the dials on your heaters all the time. Who cares what the dial says, let the controller do the work.

Furthermore, very few people have heaters with dials that can be calibrated. Are you again floating the notion that they can't be used properly as failsafes with a controller? 100% nonsense.

FWIW: This was already mentioned, indicating that you either did not read it or you ignored it in favor of trying to make your point.

Give it a rest my friend, I think this one is pretty whipped :)
 
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