acro base bleached?
- Thread starter whitemarlin
- Start date
whitemarlin
New member
Thanks for the response. I believe it was light shock that caused the bleaching and moved it down to the sand, since its been a month plus would it be better to keep it on the sand till it starts to come back or move it up to get more light.
whitemarlin
New member
bump
JPMagyar
New member
What are your tank specs and lighting in particular? If you're using LEDs or 400 wat MH I would leave it there, if you have T5s I would move it up, but then try not to disturb it for a couple months after that. No matter where you move or don't just make sure it's getting decent non-directional flow.
Also I hope you'll give us an update in the coming months!
Joe
Also I hope you'll give us an update in the coming months!
Joe
whitemarlin
New member
Tank specs are, 40b with 29 sump, 2 AI Sols set at 30% max 12" above water, 3 700gph cir pumps, mag 5 return, mf121 skimmer, mr1 shorty reactor with brs gfo.
Chem specs as of 1/25/13,
KH 7.3 SAL
CA 450 SAL
MG 1440 SAL
PO4 .06 HANNA ULR
N03 .2 -.5 SAL
My KH is the only thing not stable it has been dropping 1KH every 3-5 days, I have been dripping baking soda to bring it up once a week. All other sps look great with growth.
Chem specs as of 1/25/13,
KH 7.3 SAL
CA 450 SAL
MG 1440 SAL
PO4 .06 HANNA ULR
N03 .2 -.5 SAL
My KH is the only thing not stable it has been dropping 1KH every 3-5 days, I have been dripping baking soda to bring it up once a week. All other sps look great with growth.
potterjon
New member
A lot of coral will actually encrust before they start to grow up. They have to have a base that will support their weight. It just seems like that part takes forever sometimes. 
I think that is why people say "fully encrusted" when they sell frags. A lot of the hard part is already done.
I think that is why people say "fully encrusted" when they sell frags. A lot of the hard part is already done.
JPMagyar
New member
I definitely agree with what Potterjon said above, it does sometimes seem to take "forever" for a particular coral to grow out.
Funny thing about this hobby though for me is that every couple of months it seems like I find a new "area of focus" and my 2 most recent areas might be of interest here.
First off I was already leaning towards a belief that stable alkalinity may be more important than we previously believed and second I have been amazed at how successful my daughter's 38 gallon tank has been. In my daughter's tank we are using a combination of 1 ml daily of RedSea NoPox and a reactor with PO4x4 that is set to very lightly tumble the grains. All that along with weekly 10% water changes. Anyways, her tank is rock solid steady at 0/0 detectable nitrate or phosphate. In addition she's adding about 15 ml daily of ESV B-Ionic and the alkalinity is steady as can be as well. Finally I would note that I filled her mini-sump which is built into the back with reef rubble and think that helps as well. On my own tank I finally got scientific about setting up my calcium reactor and matched the effluent hardness and output to match the uptake of alkalinity from my reef. I did all that after finding a paper that showed the growth rate of corals in the wild was not influenced by pH or CO2 but very much influenced by changes in alkalinity. So now that my tank has steady alkalinity I do believe I have seen an improvement in growth on my slowest growers like the 30,000 leagues Lokani.
So that long winded paragraph is just my way of saying that I think if you can work to steady your alkalinity at 8 dKh and get your nitrates and phosphates down as low as possible, I think you will improve your chances.
Like I said though, please keep us posted on your progress!
:beer:
Joe
Funny thing about this hobby though for me is that every couple of months it seems like I find a new "area of focus" and my 2 most recent areas might be of interest here.
First off I was already leaning towards a belief that stable alkalinity may be more important than we previously believed and second I have been amazed at how successful my daughter's 38 gallon tank has been. In my daughter's tank we are using a combination of 1 ml daily of RedSea NoPox and a reactor with PO4x4 that is set to very lightly tumble the grains. All that along with weekly 10% water changes. Anyways, her tank is rock solid steady at 0/0 detectable nitrate or phosphate. In addition she's adding about 15 ml daily of ESV B-Ionic and the alkalinity is steady as can be as well. Finally I would note that I filled her mini-sump which is built into the back with reef rubble and think that helps as well. On my own tank I finally got scientific about setting up my calcium reactor and matched the effluent hardness and output to match the uptake of alkalinity from my reef. I did all that after finding a paper that showed the growth rate of corals in the wild was not influenced by pH or CO2 but very much influenced by changes in alkalinity. So now that my tank has steady alkalinity I do believe I have seen an improvement in growth on my slowest growers like the 30,000 leagues Lokani.
So that long winded paragraph is just my way of saying that I think if you can work to steady your alkalinity at 8 dKh and get your nitrates and phosphates down as low as possible, I think you will improve your chances.
Like I said though, please keep us posted on your progress!
:beer:
Joe
