Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
The ones that I use have just 2 shortened flutes. One above and one below. Keeps material from grabbing when mulching through. Really only time I use these is for routing through heavy gauge polycarbonate which is very soft and grabby with 2 flute cutters.
Countertop material has a tendency to be hard on cutters either way though so from a practical point of view, not sure I'd use an expensive cutter. May work a little better but would still need frequent sharpening to maintain that effectiveness. But I don't work with that material often enough to have a real good opinion.
James
Countertop material has a tendency to be hard on cutters either way though so from a practical point of view, not sure I'd use an expensive cutter. May work a little better but would still need frequent sharpening to maintain that effectiveness. But I don't work with that material often enough to have a real good opinion.
James
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
does anybody have any tips for working with very small acrylic?
I am trying to build a really tiny 6x6x4 tank so that I can elevate my elegance coral a bit closer to the light in my quarantine tank (shows slight early signs of bleaching where its furthest from the center of the PC bulb, lux readings are half as intense there).
I cut a piece of MDF about the same width as my pieces, and I've been using 2 clamps to try and secure the pieces, but no matter how hard I try and clamp them down, they rotate when I route with my trim bit, giving me an angled cut.
I have never had this problem with larger pieces and MDF. Is the MDF just too smooth, allowing the piece to slide? is there a better way to go about securing small pieces?
I'm using the 4" version of these Irwin clamps
I am trying to build a really tiny 6x6x4 tank so that I can elevate my elegance coral a bit closer to the light in my quarantine tank (shows slight early signs of bleaching where its furthest from the center of the PC bulb, lux readings are half as intense there).
I cut a piece of MDF about the same width as my pieces, and I've been using 2 clamps to try and secure the pieces, but no matter how hard I try and clamp them down, they rotate when I route with my trim bit, giving me an angled cut.
I have never had this problem with larger pieces and MDF. Is the MDF just too smooth, allowing the piece to slide? is there a better way to go about securing small pieces?
I'm using the 4" version of these Irwin clamps
truthdesigns
New member
Thanks Everyone for the reading material I have been building tanks for the last week with the help of you guys here!
A Big thanks to Acrylics and Zephrant!!:0)
The problem I am having now is figuring out the best method
of gluing the bottom on. Do I do one side at a time or do I
Glue around the whole tank and then pull the pins?
Here is a pic of my new little project! 12x12x8 1/2" Cell Cast
A Big thanks to Acrylics and Zephrant!!:0)
The problem I am having now is figuring out the best method
of gluing the bottom on. Do I do one side at a time or do I
Glue around the whole tank and then pull the pins?
Here is a pic of my new little project! 12x12x8 1/2" Cell Cast
When you glue your 4 sides, line up the edges perfectly before the glue sets. Then glue the top, all at once. Then the bottom.
The reason you glue the top first is it has a cutout, so when you glue the bottom, the top is open, and the tank can off-gas the fumes. You dont want to glue the top last, because then you have a sealed box, that the fumes can't escape from. The fumes (I've heard) can damage the tank.
Being in a sign shop, I'm sure you have all the right tools already
The reason you glue the top first is it has a cutout, so when you glue the bottom, the top is open, and the tank can off-gas the fumes. You dont want to glue the top last, because then you have a sealed box, that the fumes can't escape from. The fumes (I've heard) can damage the tank.
Being in a sign shop, I'm sure you have all the right tools already
truthdesigns
New member
Thanks I don't think I need a top on this little tank!
So I pin the bottom all the way around apply my glue and then pull the pins from the corner i started at?
So I pin the bottom all the way around apply my glue and then pull the pins from the corner i started at?
truthdesigns
New member
lol Thanks bchbum189
truthdesigns
New member
What do you think About the router table I built?
Its pretty funny but it works very well for me!
Its pretty funny but it works very well for me!
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
I am getting really tired of all the extra clamp work that comes from routing each piece without a routing table.
I think I may run to lowes in a bit and see what they have for tables.
Of course, i've never used a router table so i am not quite sure how you can use one to make a piece square on all side when it's just slightly off. I'm guessing you need to create a guide piece that stays square with the tables fence for it to work?
I think I may run to lowes in a bit and see what they have for tables.
Of course, i've never used a router table so i am not quite sure how you can use one to make a piece square on all side when it's just slightly off. I'm guessing you need to create a guide piece that stays square with the tables fence for it to work?
truthdesigns
New member
how long do you wait to water test it?
And if there is a leak how do you patch it?
And if there is a leak how do you patch it?
Ryan,
As long as you have one square corner, you can easily make the whole piece square. But, the pieces don't have to be exactly square, they just have to be consistent with each other and a router table is *very* good at this.
Justin,
I'd wait 72hrs, more is better. As for leaks, jump off that bridge when you get to it. (crossing my fingers for ya )
James
As long as you have one square corner, you can easily make the whole piece square. But, the pieces don't have to be exactly square, they just have to be consistent with each other and a router table is *very* good at this.
Justin,
I'd wait 72hrs, more is better. As for leaks, jump off that bridge when you get to it. (crossing my fingers for ya
)James
ReefEnabler
Premium Member
after looking at HD, lowes, and sears, I wasn't impressed by any of the router tables, but for now I got a craftsman table for $70 at sears since I'm really just using this for small pieces.
it has a miter guage which is exactly what I need to keep it square (I didn't realize most tables came with a miter guage like a table saw).
only annoying thing is that it was drilled only for a craftsman router, so I had to drill my own holes for my rigid router. no biggie, it works pretty good anyways. the little ruler markings on the surface aren't lined up since my custom-mount isn't exactly centered with it, but oh well.
In the future I will be interested in getting a higher quality table. anybody have recommendations?
it has a miter guage which is exactly what I need to keep it square (I didn't realize most tables came with a miter guage like a table saw).
only annoying thing is that it was drilled only for a craftsman router, so I had to drill my own holes for my rigid router. no biggie, it works pretty good anyways. the little ruler markings on the surface aren't lined up since my custom-mount isn't exactly centered with it, but oh well.
In the future I will be interested in getting a higher quality table. anybody have recommendations?
Yep, if you want it tp sit flat
If there is any warpage in the bottom piece, it will get glued to the front & back with that warpage in place and the tank won't sit flat. If you glue the sides first, and the edges of all sides are parallel, they will be on the same plane so it has no choice but to sit flat.
James
