Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

[Floyd R Turbo]

One more ? though....Is that going to be rimless?

 

[amayba2]

I was planning on it being rimless, maybe not now with the mistakes?

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[Floyd R Turbo]

Eh....you might be OK, but even a 1" perimeter euro would add a lot of strength. Looks like you are using rough-sawn edges? If they are very good quality sawn and not jagged, those "can" work ok. The welding results are really what tells you the quality. But if you just wicked in using capillary action and didn't allow a soak time before tightening down the clamps, I'd be worried...capillary joints are weak

 

[amayba2]

These joints were pinned and allowed to soak for ~1min before pulling the pins. The edges were cut locally on I believe a panel saw and 2 side cuts were made on a table saw with 80 tooth carbide blade. From what I saw the joints looked like they came out nicely, just slightly crooked with the lack of a jig.

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[Floyd R Turbo]

I've built several rimless 1/2" wall tanks larger than that (36x24) but only 9" tall and 8" of water, so a smaller tank with 10" walls and ~9" of water, you should be OK rimless I would think.

 

[PeterBel]

L-Shape Aquarium

L-Shape Aquarium

I am looking to build a L-Shape tank. Below are the specs.

I am planning to have the water line 1" below the edge.

Cast Acrylic

• Panel 66" x 22" X 0.5" (Rear)
• Panel 55" x 22" X 0.5" (Rear)
• Panel 26" x 22" X 0.5" (Front)
• Panel 29.5" X 22" x 0.5" (Side)
• Panel 40.5 x 22" x 0.5" (Front)
• Panel 25" x 22" x 0.5" (Side)
• Panel 26" x 66" x 0.5" (Bottom)
• Panel 30" x 26" x 0.5" (Bottom)

I am also planning to have an internal overflow box at the inside corner between the 2 longer panel.

- 1st, i would like to confirm that my calculations of using 1/2" acrylic is adequate for this design.
- 2nd, i am looking for suggestion on the bracing.
- 3rd, any comments is welcome

Thanks guys!

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Without a euro, no way on 1/2". I can't speak much about L tanks as I have no experience but I would think that you would want a 1-piece bottom as well as top - no bonding of 2 pieces together.

 

[PeterBel]

Without a euro, no way on 1/2". I can't speak much about L tanks as I have no experience but I would think that you would want a 1-piece bottom as well as top - no bonding of 2 pieces together.

How about 3/4" thick with A few 3"x3/4" bracing?

I saw a few built online where they used 2 panel and bonded them together to get a 10' bottom or more...That's why i am tempted to do the same. The bottom will be fully supported by a 3/4" plywood.

 

[PeterBel]

Newer version with 3/4" Acrylic and 2 section of Euro Style Braces, water line at 21", exterior tank height 23 1/2"

 

[Acrylics]

Peter,

While there are a few ways to build the "L" tanks, the best is to build the 4 sides as a full size tank; meaning a 66 x 56" tank. Then after that assembly is built. glue in the 30 x 40" "L" and route off the remainder. This will help ensure the tank comes out square and flat.

Yes, it may seem like a bit of a waste insofar as material goes, but pretty much guaranteed square and flat is well worth it and far more important than the extra few bux.

Don't worry about casting the top and bottom together - just get 5x8' or 6x8' sheets. If you cast them together - you will most likely wish you hadn't

Cut list:
(2) pcs 66.25 x 22" front/back
(2) pcs 54.5 x 22" ends
(1) pc 40.13 x 22" 40" section of "L"
(1) pc 29.25 x 22" 30" section of "L"
(2) pcs 66.25 x 56.25" top/bottom

Make crossbraces a continuation of the eurobrace, if that makes sense.
Using 3" eurobrace and 6" crossbracing; I'd probably so a 24 x 20" opening over the 30" section, a 34 x 20" opening over the 40" section, leaving a 20 x 20" opening in the corner. This will yield you 3" perimeter flange and (2) 6" crossbraces which will be aesthetically pleasing and strong. At this height, 3/4" material is plenty strong enough and you'd get nice, larger openings.

HTH,
James

 

[PeterBel]

Great info, i never taught doing a full size tank and route off the L-Shape. That said, that definitely makes me more nervous as i was planning to have all the parts pe-cut for me. Now i have to handle the router :headwally:

I guess it's time for me to buy some 3/4" acrylic scrap and practice my routing and polishing skills.

I really appreciate the input and will update my design accordingly.

Peter,

While there are a few ways to build the "L" tanks, the best is to build the 4 sides as a full size tank; meaning a 66 x 56" tank. Then after that assembly is built. glue in the 30 x 40" "L" and route off the remainder. This will help ensure the tank comes out square and flat.

Yes, it may seem like a bit of a waste insofar as material goes, but pretty much guaranteed square and flat is well worth it and far more important than the extra few bux.

Don't worry about casting the top and bottom together - just get 5x8' or 6x8' sheets. If you cast them together - you will most likely wish you hadn't

Cut list:
(2) pcs 66.25 x 22" front/back
(2) pcs 54.5 x 22" ends
(1) pc 40.13 x 22" 40" section of "L"
(1) pc 29.25 x 22" 30" section of "L"
(2) pcs 66.25 x 56.25" top/bottom

Make crossbraces a continuation of the eurobrace, if that makes sense.
Using 3" eurobrace and 6" crossbracing; I'd probably so a 24 x 20" opening over the 30" section, a 34 x 20" opening over the 40" section, leaving a 20 x 20" opening in the corner. This will yield you 3" perimeter flange and (2) 6" crossbraces which will be aesthetically pleasing and strong. At this height, 3/4" material is plenty strong enough and you'd get nice, larger openings.

HTH,
James

 

[PeterBel]

A quick question, do you put the Eurobrace on the top or you normally put it on the inside? It seems much easier to install it on the top edges than inside, but sometime the easiest way might not be the best?

Peter,

While there are a few ways to build the "L" tanks, the best is to build the 4 sides as a full size tank; meaning a 66 x 56" tank. Then after that assembly is built. glue in the 30 x 40" "L" and route off the remainder. This will help ensure the tank comes out square and flat.

Yes, it may seem like a bit of a waste insofar as material goes, but pretty much guaranteed square and flat is well worth it and far more important than the extra few bux.

Don't worry about casting the top and bottom together - just get 5x8' or 6x8' sheets. If you cast them together - you will most likely wish you hadn't

Cut list:
(2) pcs 66.25 x 22" front/back
(2) pcs 54.5 x 22" ends
(1) pc 40.13 x 22" 40" section of "L"
(1) pc 29.25 x 22" 30" section of "L"
(2) pcs 66.25 x 56.25" top/bottom

Make crossbraces a continuation of the eurobrace, if that makes sense.
Using 3" eurobrace and 6" crossbracing; I'd probably so a 24 x 20" opening over the 30" section, a 34 x 20" opening over the 40" section, leaving a 20 x 20" opening in the corner. This will yield you 3" perimeter flange and (2) 6" crossbraces which will be aesthetically pleasing and strong. At this height, 3/4" material is plenty strong enough and you'd get nice, larger openings.

HTH,
James

 

[Acrylics]

build the vertical panels first, then place the entire assembly onto the top, then that assembly on the bottom..

HTH,
James

 

[PeterBel]

build the vertical panels first, then place the entire assembly onto the top, then that assembly on the bottom..

HTH,
James

Newer Version:

• Thickness: 3/4"
• Single piece for Top Euro Braces and Bottom
• 3" Euro Brace Around
• 6" Center Braces

Any other comments?

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

If you go with James' advice, you would build the full tank first then bond in the L. So your end panel on the right is off - the nearest corner would have the end panel on the outside, since you would bond the L parts to the inner face of that panel then route off the unused section

 

[PeterBel]

If you go with James' advice, you would build the full tank first then bond in the L. So your end panel on the right is off - the nearest corner would have the end panel on the outside, since you would bond the L parts to the inner face of that panel then route off the unused section

Good catch, you are right! When I first designed it, I avoided having the edges facing the front, I won't have a choice for this one.

Thanks.


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[rompininphx]

I had a bad seam on my 150 gallon acrylic tank. So I took it down and bought a new one. I still have the 150 and was wondering if there is any way I can repair it by rebonding the acrylic? Take a look at the pics. How would I go about fixing this?

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/53605474@N02/30963720593/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_20161220_164907"><img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/493/30963720593_82e7ab4dec.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20161220_164907"></a>

 

[zxknight]

just wanted to know, how do i cut slots in acrylic. i did a search but could not find anything. looking to do something like this.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

Template on top of the material + a flush cutter, or CNC. This was undoubtedly done by a CNC but I can't imagine it actually does anything special except it looks cool and provides a reason to charge more

 

[zxknight]

Template on top of the material + a flush cutter, or CNC. This was undoubtedly done by a CNC but I can't imagine it actually does anything special except it looks cool and provides a reason to charge more

thanks will look into them.