Malign Reefer
New member
Here is the link to the GP stuff.
Under the Literature by Supplier link
http://www.piedmontplastics.com/cast-acrylic-sheet/
Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Here is the link to the GP stuff.
Under the Literature by Supplier link
http://www.piedmontplastics.com/cast-acrylic-sheet/
I believe they're referring to Chemcast GP, I wouldn't use it despite the low price. There was a company selling tanks a few years ago below what anyone else could charge and offering a lifetime guarantee. I couldn't figure it out until many of those tanks started popping and I was sent pics. *Now* I understood - they were using Chemcast GP and the bond strength wasn't holding up over time (a year or two) and the company folded. It *may* be a better material insofar as strength goes these days, but I also see it crazing a bit faster than other materials on things like small displays.
In short, I wouldn't, but it *may* be okay. Plex G/GM would be preferred if you don't want to spend the money on Polycast/Polyone.
James
Malign Reefer
New member
Thanks James, I think I will stick with G.
Malign Reefer
New member
They have 3 different PolyOne's list in that section, which one would you choose?
Depends, but as a generality - none of the ones listed. I think those are just .pdf brochures for your reading pleasure.
Commercial grade Polycast/Polyone (not listed in the link) is by far the best material but is ~50% more expensive than Plex G/GM. Polyone is a bigger player in the aerospace materials and that's where they make good $$. They still have the commercial side, but have increased pricing a lot over the last few years. They used to be 15-20% more than Plex G but the gap is a good bit bigger nowadays.
Most of the bigger distributors like Piedmont "carry" it as a line, but *very few* keep it in stock.
James
Malign Reefer
New member
Thanks again James
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Plexglas G <space> P-95 is not "GP" - in case that's how you read it. Not sure what P-95 is
P-95 is frosted on one side. The "P" means pattern and 95 is essentially the density of the pattern. P-99 is often used as a "non-glare" material for picture frames - textured side out eliminates reflections and adds softness. P-99 is always extruded while P-95 is kinda it's cell cast equivalent. You can also have double pattern, called "DP." DP-70 and the like is often used for patio table tops and shower doors.
James
Malign Reefer
New member
Oh ok, thats how to read that... I'll just stick with G like I always have, thanks again guys!!
Dale_M
Official Noob
I work for a flooring company and we use underlayments for laminate and luxury vinyl plank flooring. Its 3mm thick with a foil backing for moisture barrier. It is made from a material similar to neoprene. It is exactly what I would use if I were installing a rimless tank. Here is a link to the product we use: http://www.thesoundguard.com/products/soundguard/
But any similar product would certainly work well.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Nothing. Have a solid frame with appropriate crossbracing and 2 layers of 3/4" plywood, ensure no bumps/etc, 2-3 coats of oil base paint, place tank directly on plywood.
The neoprene or vinyl flooring is a good solution as well. Just not "foam" as in white styro or any other insulation type foam that is permanently compressible. Never under an acrylic tank.
laverda
Well-known member
Would it weaken my tank significantly if I were to use a 1/8 radius router bit to round off the sharp edge on the front top opening in my tank. I want to do this because my tank is 30" tall and stand 36" making it hard to reach into my tank. the edge of the tank is really hard on my arms when trying to clean the acrylic or reaching down into my tank.
Freemananana
New member
I'm hoping someone can chime in quickly. I was doing my regularly weekly water change on my 125 gallon acrylic tank when the trim brace popped off.
I've drained the tank to about 4" right now. I'm in a panic. I'll read through this thread, but any help would be appreciated.
I've drained the tank to about 4" right now. I'm in a panic. I'll read through this thread, but any help would be appreciated.
PaPa_Johnny
Premium Member
I would be worried about catastrophic failure at this point. I have experienced this with the seams on a purchased sump, while at work, not fun. I am no expert but you need to redo seams at a minimum. Hopefully Floyd or Acrylics will chime in soon. I would recommend draining completely at this point though 
. Sorry you are going through this.
. Sorry you are going through this.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Looks like that was poor construction from the start. That seam break is as clean as it gets, which should never happen to a properly constructed tank. Likely, the joint was formed via wicking/capillary action - i.e. not using the pins method.
Also the material could have been an inferior product which doesn't bond well, that might also explain the clean break.
You can also see a vertical gusset in the front left joint, which tells me that they were shortcutting the bonding process there as well and needed to reinforce it (might be bubbles in the joint?)
Looks like there might be some crazing along the top edge of the front panel, could indicate flame polishing, or could just be an optical effect.
My take: tank is toast. Don't trust it, it's on the downward spiral. Not salvageable, IMO
Also the material could have been an inferior product which doesn't bond well, that might also explain the clean break.
You can also see a vertical gusset in the front left joint, which tells me that they were shortcutting the bonding process there as well and needed to reinforce it (might be bubbles in the joint?)
Looks like there might be some crazing along the top edge of the front panel, could indicate flame polishing, or could just be an optical effect.
My take: tank is toast. Don't trust it, it's on the downward spiral. Not salvageable, IMO
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