Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

James,

Couple of quick questions.

I just received this tank, free about three weeks ago. Outer dimensions are 32.5x32.5x36 (t), thickness is .75 all around except top and bottom (.50)

Obviously, the background is blue. Hate it, hate it, hate it. If I scuff it up, and paint it with Krylon, will it stick?

Second, do you recommend styrofoam underneath acrylic tanks? I've got 3/4" plywood that it's sitting on, and it's 'dead nuts' level. THoughts?

MVC-010F.jpg


Finally, what's the 'best' kit that you recommend for scratches? Pretty heavy stuff, honestly, probably have to do both inner and outer for both 'clear' sides.

TIA
Indy
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12421105#post12421105 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by IndyCJ
I just received this tank, free about three weeks ago. Outer dimensions are 32.5x32.5x36 (t), thickness is .75 all around except top and bottom (.50)

Obviously, the background is blue. Hate it, hate it, hate it. If I scuff it up, and paint it with Krylon, will it stick?
Click to expand...
Shouldn't need to scuff it up at all but I can't say how well it will do once water is in. I don't paint so don't have any practical experience.

Second, do you recommend styrofoam underneath acrylic tanks? I've got 3/4" plywood that it's sitting on, and it's 'dead nuts' level. THoughts?
Click to expand...
Don't put any foam under it. Foam is intended it "make up" for any irregularities, since you have none - don't do it.

what's the 'best' kit that you recommend for scratches? Pretty heavy stuff, honestly, probably have to do both inner and outer for both 'clear' sides
Click to expand...
Either Micro-Mesh or Everclear. Fairly comparable IMO.

HTH,
James
 
So....will the tank "level" itself under the weight of the tank with water or will it only compensate for small irregularities of the tank /stand themselves ~won't level?
 
I'm assuming you are referring to the foam? If so, the foam should have nothing to do with leveling the tank. It is for any screw heads, nails, or other protrusions from the wood so there are no acute pressure points. Any leveling should be done by the stand structure.

If the tank sits flat on the wood and no screw heads or that type of thing, that's all you need. Adding anything that would/could compress would do nothing.

HTH,
James
 
got it thanks. Just that I haven't set my stand in its final destination yet cause I am prepping the site and I am leery that it will not be level... if not, can I just shim the bottom of the 2x2 metal frame stand to level? I don't want to add leveling feet to this beast.
 
Acrylics thanks for the earlier answer. The #40 did the trick.

My edges are a little sharp. What is the easiest way to dull them?
 
you can wet send starting 80 grit and then 220 or so, just running some sandpaper along the corner. for cleanup its best if the paper is still on.

sometimes i use an orbit sander and just kinda trim all the outside corners really quickly. makes it alot safter to handle the tanks, routed edges can be razor sharp.
 
can somebody give me some pointers for using WO 40? I just got some and want to run a bead along the inside corners of my acrylic tanks to add strength.

what kind of needle/syringe should I use to get a nice clean bead? Is there a place to buy wide nose hypodermic needles????

Is there a certain kind of glove that won't react with the solvent in there, so I can run my finger and clean up the bead if necessary?

Never used the stuff before so any pointers would be appreciated.
 
Luis,

Yep, level the tank by shimming the stand (best) or shimming under the plywood base (okay but not "preferred")

Ryan,
The stuff is sticky as hell so I wouldn't try cleaning the bead like w/ silicone.
Just use a slip-tip syringe, no needle.

HTH,
James
 
Pharmacies carry them, laws may vary from state to state as to who can buy them at pharmacies though. I buy 30 & 60cc syringes from lab supply stores so maybe give one a shot?
I would think a 30cc would be more than adequate but I dunno your application. Should buy several IMO.

James
 
Thanks James,
In just a few minutes I'll be heading to home depot to get some Isopropyl alchhol to clean the acrylic. I assume that annealing is not needed since I am adding 40 to an inside corner, not to machined edges?

What do you use to measure out the quantities of part A and B?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12443487#post12443487 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RyanBrucks
Thanks James,
In just a few minutes I'll be heading to home depot to get some Isopropyl alchhol to clean the acrylic. I assume that annealing is not needed since I am adding 40 to an inside corner, not to machined edges?

What do you use to measure out the quantities of part A and B?
Click to expand...
The little plastic graduated measuring cups in my kitchen...shhh don't tell my Wife ;)
Annealing wouldn't be necessary anyway. Good thing to do but not necessary.

James
 
just went to both CVS and wallgreens and the largest was 10cc from CVS and it looked too small.

they suggested some medical supply store next to the hospital but since its closed I'll have to try tomorrow. If thats a fail too then I'll try getting some online.
 
Ryan

Don't know about your area, but you could try a farm supply also. That is where I normally get mine.

Kim
 
i use little paint mixing cups to measure out my wo40.. Should be about 5 parts per 100 depending on humidity.

James do you anneal your tanks? Would take a very large oven, but seems like it would be a great selling point.
 
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