Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

ok I have to see whith is much bette use to pressed sheets for the tension internal of the material.
bat I don't have to see the method for the glue.
thank for the answer
Marcy
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12894959#post12894959 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RyanBrucks
Marcello4777,

I am confused about what you are asking. Are you asking weather you should use extruded or cell cast acrylic sheets?

Also, it sounds like you are trying to get information on the solvents?

If so, please see this guide:
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/diy_acrylic_aquarium_3.php

I've read through it, and everything seems pretty in-accordance with the information you will find on this thread.


Ryan

Ryan
Click to expand...

Thank Ryan

I see the giude, bat i don't have this solvent bat have " altuglas adhesive s 2003 e " and is very solid. I think whit a chloroform, I can to mix and to obtain the glue fluid.


Yes I asking weather should use extruded or cell cast acrylic sheets.

excuse me for the writing, bat i'm italian.

thank
 
Cell cast is definitely what you want.

Unfortunately I have no knowledge of the glue you speak of.

I have heard of people using Chloroform, but I have no idea about mixing it with other glue.

Hopefully somebody with more knowledge will chime in.

Best of luck!
Ryan
 
Hi Marcy,

Try to get the Altuglas CN, it is the cell cast material.

I do not think using the 2003 will be good for large tanks or sumps, but could be good for smaller components. IME chloroform doe not make joints as strong as chlorinated solvents. I would try to find a solvent with methylene chloride (dichloromethane) or ethylene dichloride (dichloroethane), both of these are very good but may be difficult to find in your location.

HTH,
James
 
Hey James, do you even use the pin method for 3/16" or 1/4" acrylic? Seems like some of the sumps made by manufacturers are bubble free also and considering they mass produce, I don't see them using the pins method because it seems time consuming.
 
Yep, use same methods for gluing 1/4" as I do gluing 2", just different size wires. I rarely glue anything less than 1/4" though and rarely use wires for stuff that thin, it flexes enough and isn't being use for tanks (not 'round my shop anyway.) I cannot say what mass mfrs do, I've never worked for one so could make educated "guesses" but nothing with absolute certainty, I'm fairly sure every one of them has their own methods.

HTH,
James
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12900199#post12900199 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Acrylics
Hi Marcy,

Try to get the Altuglas CN, it is the cell cast material.

I do not think using the 2003 will be good for large tanks or sumps, but could be good for smaller components. IME chloroform doe not make joints as strong as chlorinated solvents. I would try to find a solvent with methylene chloride (dichloromethane) or ethylene dichloride (dichloroethane), both of these are very good but may be difficult to find in your location.

HTH,
James
Click to expand...

thank James,
I have to find the methylene chloride.
I have to do the test with the 2003 for the tank of 27,7" x 18" x 18" and the result is beautiful, but the glue is to go out.
the tank is full of marine water and not to lose.

Thank
Marcy
 
Hello james been reading this thread for awhile now and i have a few questions for you. I plan on building a 72" x 36" x 30" tall tank i have 3/4" acrylic to use i would like to have the top open as much as possible maybe euro brace? what would be the set up as width of bracing and how would i do it thanks steve
 
at 30" tall and made from 3/4" you are going to need at least a center brace. Preferably 2 braces. Step it up to 1" including the top and reduce the need for this.
 
Hello thanks for the responce so i would need a 1" top with at least 1 center brace and what width would the center brace have to be as well as the bracing around the top thanks
 
I agree with bchbum, I'd rather see you invest in 1" for the vertical panels, will help more. If you went with 1" for the verticals and top, I'd say 4" eurobrace and an 8" centerbrace. If you stuck with 3/4", my recommendation would be the two 6" crossbraces. For no crossbracing and 1" for the verticals and top, I'd probably recommend 6" eurobrace.
Just using 1" for the top doesn't help much and won't change deflection at all.

HTH,
James
 
Hello thanks for the responces i have the 3/4" for the verticals already. sounds like i need 1" top with 2- 6" center braces and 6" euro brace around the top. correct? thanks
 
IO you can forget the 1" top, won't help much but won't hurt either

With all 3/4" material; 4" eurobrace with two 6" crossbraces and you'd be golden :)

HTH,
James
 
Ok thank you very much for the advise should be starting the build in the coming weeks. I will be gluing alot of peice`s for pratice first. and will let you know how things turn out.
 
Can you yes. As long as you silicone from the inside of the tank the water pressure will hold the silicone in place. Now you do need to make sure that it is not a structural problem causing the leak. If possible though I would suggest using some weldon to seal the hole it would be a lot more permanent than the silicone would be.

Kim
 
I keep filling it hald way and I could swear that there is a rememant of water coming thru somewhere. I had already tried to used the Japanese version of weldon. The problem is that the darn bottom is made of of two pieces joined together!!!! SIGH!!! I didn't realize that until I had bought the darn thing. Haste made waste here...but I was told that it was fully opertional and no leaks were evident. Its a 3 meter tank (almost 10 feet long) and the joint is located about 1/3rd of the way from the right side looking onto it from the front side.

The darn things heavy, I have firens running away when I ask them to help me pick it up and turn it over. I thoguth about it last night and drained it yet again. I will probably remove the silicone and add additional acrylic pieces to the piece in place already. I will butt them along side the current piece on both sides then slap another piece on top of those butted pieces to create a U shape patch over it...the acrylic man out in town here did the same for my sump with small pieces. I just have to kick it up a notch. Will keep you posted. Will try to take pics too...
 
I had a new skimmer body break at the base.........




59396broken_skimmer__800x600_.jpg




.....and I was thinking of repairing it by gluing it back together and gluing triangular gussets around the perimeter (in blue.)


Does this look like a good idea and what solvent would you use on the break.





59396gussets__800x600_.jpg
 
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