Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

"Cell" and cell cast are the same. There is a distinct difference between continuous cast and cell cast though.
There are huge differences between brands of cell cast, anyone who says otherwise is ignorant and has probably never fabricated anything in their lives, at least anything good. No offense to them but perhaps there's a reason they are salesmen and not fabricators.

If they say they're all the same, ask them to substantiate the price differences between them.

In the end, make the choice you want, believe who you want. But why is it *every* tank mfr uses specific brands? there are reasons.... ;)

James
 
here is a few pics...36long by 18w and 18tall with a 9" water line... rimless 3/8th material...as you requested marc....you can see the deflection in the last pic which is really exagerated in the pic....it's 1/8" deflection on each side...when i run a tape across the top the center is a 1/4" wider....no biggie on a sump imo.
2009-12-18194714-1.jpg

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2009-12-18194855.jpg
 
Thank you for the pictures, even if you did take them through some hazy acrylic. ;) I'm sure those images will help others reading this thread.
 
Troy,
What's the deflection rate when filled? for an extended period of time?

When there is a power outage and the sump fills is when it counts IMO. It's at that time that the most stress is put on the sump and my concern is sumps cracking out or seams going south, esp by those that may not get the best joints. I know you had said you don't get many outages, we do, and sometimes for days at a time (though not commonly) These are not the times to be testing one's joints, hence I recommend folks to design & engineer their sumps to be filled rather than half-filled :)

James
 
Thank you for the pictures, even if you did take them through some hazy acrylic. ;) I'm sure those images will help others reading this thread.
What do you mean hazy acrylic???? My camera phone sucks lol....the acrylic is crystal clear....
 
Troy,
What's the deflection rate when filled? for an extended period of time?

When there is a power outage and the sump fills is when it counts IMO. It's at that time that the most stress is put on the sump and my concern is sumps cracking out or seams going south, esp by those that may not get the best joints. I know you had said you don't get many outages, we do, and sometimes for days at a time (though not commonly) These are not the times to be testing one's joints, hence I recommend folks to design & engineer their sumps to be filled rather than half-filled :)

James

I hear ya james....honestly I can't ever remember a power outage here at all....the only time you lose power is if you don't pay the bill...:lol: its prolly not a good example but it works and for my application.....that sump is gonna be replaced with in a week or 2 anyways....that is the chemcast sump you warned me about, I fired it up to see how it would run with so much flow going threw it and as expected I have a tiny micro bubble problem with close to 3000gph. Running threw it......so I got to change the design a little and use that sheet of 1/2" plex g I was talking about in my thread....I kind of went into the sump build blind because I didn't know what skimmer or return I was gonna use......I oriinally planned a ehiem1262 for a return but when it all came together I had a dart laying here and it was free......so after trying the dart I had to do some major mods to the tank overflow and now the new sump.....but I still plan to be rimless but it will be 1/2" and better material....:)
 
Hey james

Trying to finalize my dimensions on my new tank and I have decided on 144"Lx30"Wx18"H and I am trying to figure out the top bracing. If I used 1/2" material for this build, how big of perimeter bracing and how many cross braces do you think I would need? The same question for 3/4" material? Would I be able to get buy with 0,1,or only 2 cross braces with 3/4"?

The tank is going to be open top with T5 lighting hanging down from the ceiling so I would like as open a top as possible.

Last question, how much more % wise is the 3/4 than the 1/2 material in cost?
 
Hi guys , I recently cut down my old acrylic tank into a sump and for the baffles I used "Acrylite FF" .236 thickness
[I wouldn't again if I had it to do over]

I used 80% of the scrap from the old tank so not to waste it.
[it was 3/8 thickness]

Comparing working with the two materials ,the Acrylite FF seamed harder and more brittle. And just generally snaps n breaks easier.

So is this a accurate [read rookie] description of the two materials.
And why you recommend the brands you do.??
 
that is a extruded material....i think for the most part the 3 brands that are recommended are polycast, acrylite "gp", and plexiglass "g"....main reason i recommend them is there the eaisest to work with and after doing numerous stress test they not only hold the best but weld the cleanest....
 
I'm looking into building my own tank. I've thought about glass but am leaning more toward using acrylic.

I want the footprint to be 48"X48" and 24" tall.

What I'm wanting is rimless without any top bracing.
From what I've found it appears that 1/2 " thick is the norm for braced acrylic up to 24" tall and some of the nicer ones being 3/4 " . I wonder if I pay the difference and upgrade to 1" at 24" tall would this be enough to get by without bracing the top? I don't want too much bowing so if that would be a problem with the 1" then I will go back down to 3/4" for all the sides, top and bottom or 1/2 for top and bottom.?.?

Also, How thick would the bottom need to be? I would think it could be thinner, say 1/2" thick??? as it would be sitting on a solid plywood top on the stand with the excerption of where the holes would be drilled.

Any input would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
 
I'm looking into building my own tank. I've thought about glass but am leaning more toward using acrylic.

I want the footprint to be 48"X48" and 24" tall.

What I'm wanting is rimless without any top bracing.
From what I've found it appears that 1/2 " thick is the norm for braced acrylic up to 24" tall and some of the nicer ones being 3/4 " . I wonder if I pay the difference and upgrade to 1" at 24" tall would this be enough to get by without bracing the top? I don't want too much bowing so if that would be a problem with the 1" then I will go back down to 3/4" for all the sides, top and bottom or 1/2 for top and bottom.?.?

Also, How thick would the bottom need to be? I would think it could be thinner, say 1/2" thick??? as it would be sitting on a solid plywood top on the stand with the excerption of where the holes would be drilled.

Any input would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
if you went 20tall with a 18" waterline one inch would be okay...
if you are gonna euro brace it 3/4" walls with a 1/2" thick bottom and euro is fine....leave a 4" perimeter for the euro....if you want no center brace.
 
I need some advise in creating an internal wier box, with an external overflow box. My internal wier box will be roughly 16" x 2.5" x 5". My external box will be 16" x 4" x 5". I will be using 1/4" acrylic.

1. I will be having this acrylic cut to the right dimensions for me by a local plastic company that sells acrylic sheets. Is there anything I need to tell them before getting the acrylic sheet cut? I remember reading somewhere not to get it flame polished or something of that nature.

2. How do I go about getting this glued to my acrylic display tank? The internal wier color will be blue to match the tank back color (not sure if this makes a difference in the type of glue to use). I will be attempting to use weldon #4. I am a little worried that since this is a used tank the back wall of the tank where the wier box and external overflow will be attached may have a very slight bow.

BTW, this is the first time I will be attempting to glue acrylic pieces, hence I'm a little paranoid that I may screw this up :worried:
 
Hi guys , I recently cut down my old acrylic tank into a sump and for the baffles I used "Acrylite FF" .236 thickness
[I wouldn't again if I had it to do over]

I used 80% of the scrap from the old tank so not to waste it.
[it was 3/8 thickness]

Comparing working with the two materials ,the Acrylite FF seamed harder and more brittle. And just generally snaps n breaks easier.

So is this a accurate [read rookie] description of the two materials.
And why you recommend the brands you do.??
Used material and new material will behave differently so no surprise that there is a difference. But to answer your question; no - not an accurate description IMO. From a physical properties perspective, there is very little difference between cell cast, continuous cast, and extruded. There will be some differences in the way they fabricate; how they cut, glue, bend, etc., but these are due to the primary difference between cast and extruded - namely how the molecules are chained together and the lengths of those molecular chains. Cell cast material had very long molecular chains which makes the material more stable under load (stress) whereas extruded material has very short molecular chains which makes it relatively unstable under similar loads.

If you wish, think of it as the difference between plywood and partical board. One has long grain structure which provides some stability while the other is made oup of small particals stuck together. Place a load on each and see how they perform. While not an accurate analogy, it should show the difference well enough :)

Please note that none of the actual numbers are published on any physical or chemical properties page by any mfr that I know of.

What would you guys recommend for a 48x24x24 120g acrylic tank?
Acrylic thickness & euro bracing?
I use 1/2" with 3" eurobrace and a 6" centerbrace, yielding 2 top openings measuring 18 x 18"

I need some advise in creating an internal wier box, with an external overflow box. My internal wier box will be roughly 16" x 2.5" x 5". My external box will be 16" x 4" x 5". I will be using 1/4" acrylic.

1. I will be having this acrylic cut to the right dimensions for me by a local plastic company that sells acrylic sheets. Is there anything I need to tell them before getting the acrylic sheet cut? I remember reading somewhere not to get it flame polished or something of that nature.

2. How do I go about getting this glued to my acrylic display tank? The internal wier color will be blue to match the tank back color (not sure if this makes a difference in the type of glue to use). I will be attempting to use weldon #4. I am a little worried that since this is a used tank the back wall of the tank where the wier box and external overflow will be attached may have a very slight bow.

BTW, this is the first time I will be attempting to glue acrylic pieces, hence I'm a little paranoid that I may screw this up :worried:
1) no flame polishing, nor any other kind of polishing. Personally, I'd ask for the pieces to be routed or machined smooth (not sawcut) to within .003-.005" this should be no problem for any plastics shop worth it's salt

2) you should expect some bowing to it but let gravity do some of the work for you. When you place the tank on it's front to glue the outside overflow on - the back should flatten out a little. If it's still too bowed, add a little weight to the back as needed to flatten it out.

Once you get the outside glued on, the inside should be relatively flat.

other than that, take your time and make sure it's all correct. If you feel the need to post pics every step of the way to make sure you're doing it correctly - that's okay. It's what we're here for :)

HTH,
James
 
So I should definitely get the outside before getting the inside glued? Only concern is that the tank may not be able to be placed on its back then....maybe I can put it on a table or something and have the newly exterior piece hang off the table.

How should I tackle this? I would first have to make my box and then glue the box to the tank. So to make the box, should I glue the sides onto the bottom piece first and then glue on the front? How long do I wait before glueing on the next item? Would I be using the pin method?

Also I spoke to the plastic shop and they told me they would do whatever, either machine smooth or routed, and wants me to tell them which method. So, which one should I ask for?

Thanks.
 
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One more question.

Since the internal box and the external box are going to be of the same length and height, is there anything I should be concerned about if they are going to be mounted at the same contact locations of the back wall of the tank? Meaning, one will be inside and the other one will be directly outside. Or do you think I should make them different lengths so that they won't be glued on at the same location?

I'm thinking if they are at the same location it may help prevent any sagging or bowing from the weight of these two boxes but would like a some assurance. :-)
 
So I should definitely get the outside before getting the inside glued? Only concern is that the tank may not be able to be placed on its back then....maybe I can put it on a table or something and have the newly exterior piece hang off the table..
Either way is fine. If it were me gluing it - I'd prefer to do the outside first. Hanging it off the table for a little bit doesn't bother me at all. But, if you're preferences dictate differently - by all means do what you think you'd be most comfy with :)
How should I tackle this? I would first have to make my box and then glue the box to the tank. So to make the box, should I glue the sides onto the bottom piece first and then glue on the front? How long do I wait before glueing on the next item? Would I be using the pin method?
Sides to the bottom first or back first; for this particular application, no matter -pick one and go with it :)
Personally, I like to do the ends to the back first, then the bottom. Glue the ends, wait 4 hours, flushcut (if applicable), then glue the bottom on.
Yes, you should be using the "pins" method, but they don't have to be pins, they can be wire, fishing line, or whatever else you have handy

Also I spoke to the plastic shop and they told me they would do whatever, either machine smooth or routed, and wants me to tell them which method. So, which one should I ask for?
Depending on what they mean by machined - either is fine provided they can get the parts consistent :)

Since the internal box and the external box are going to be of the same length and height, is there anything I should be concerned about if they are going to be mounted at the same contact locations of the back wall of the tank? Meaning, one will be inside and the other one will be directly outside. Or do you think I should make them different lengths so that they won't be glued on at the same location?

I'm thinking if they are at the same location it may help prevent any sagging or bowing from the weight of these two boxes but would like a some assurance. :-)
No, go ahead and make them as you had. No need to make them different lengths as far as I can tell :)
The boxes are going to weigh about 2lbs each +/- so weight should not even be a factor.
I have a tank under construction in which the overflow weighs ~35-40lbs and I don't consider weight a factor. If the overflow is build well, should not be an issue. That said, I would use thicker material on your overflow. Remember, the external overflow box is essentially a rimless tank you are building, it should be built accordingly :)

HTH,
James
 
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