240/320 wet/dry
Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
SunnyWindyClown
In Memoriam
Acrylics, I can not find denatured alcohol. can I use isopropal alcohol 99.9% to clean the joints before glueing? Thanks
110galreef
New member
I got a can for like $7 at Lowes. like a 24oz can too. was in with the cleaning paint stuff, like paint thinner & mineral spirits.... near paint too.
110galreef
New member
SunnyWindyClown
In Memoriam
110galreef, thanks for the info, but I can still not get it where I am rightnow. I do have the iso on hand and just wanted to know if that would work. Thanks again
110galreef
New member
Ok, I used isoproply on some scrap acrylic to test & remove some stubborn protection paper. It didn't seem to harm or haze it. But I didn't use 99%, just like 70%. Nor did i attempt to glue.
So i'd wait for Arcylics reply.
So i'd wait for Arcylics reply.
SunnyWindyClown
In Memoriam
i will wait for acrylics to reply. Thanks for your help
I have a question about gluing in a bubble trap. Begging pardon if this has been asked in the past.
Seems I've come across people saying gluing order is ends and baffles to the front, flip everything over and then glue those to the back. If you have a 3 baffle bubble trap how do you glue in the middle baffle after you flip it? Do you just install the last one after the first two are set?
Seems I've come across people saying gluing order is ends and baffles to the front, flip everything over and then glue those to the back. If you have a 3 baffle bubble trap how do you glue in the middle baffle after you flip it? Do you just install the last one after the first two are set?
nope, do 'em all at once
takes a little practice in controlling solvent flow, but do 'em all at the same time. Surface tension (capillary action) will make the solvent flow further than your applicator needle will reach - just takes a little practice James
I'd have one cast. Not going to be cheap, but thats what I'd do if I really wanted a cone. You might be able to heat form a tube for a cone thats not extremly tapered, but that sounds like a great way to turn expensive tubinging into expensive junk.(i'm sure it could be done, but how many mistakes can you aford?)
As far to getting it flat, a table saw with a jig fallowed up by some hand work.
As far to getting it flat, a table saw with a jig fallowed up by some hand work.
blackizzz
New member
Yes i've thought about that but, left the idea in the trash =P
I live in sweden and there aint that many acrylic fabricators in the area where i live, and i imagine the cheapest one would cost around 500 bucks =/ and i would probably be able to make a cone myself that is atleast half as nice for a quarter of the price =P The project is mainly for my diy cone skimmer and if there is'nt any semi cheap / doable way, im better of buying a skimmer (a nice one), as it would probably cost about the same then =( But if you were to make the cone out of plate acrylic then? is that better? is it even possible to make a seamless cone as a hobbyist? the only way i can think of doing a seamless cone is to take a thick peice of acrylic and then stretch it over a mould to shape it, and it would make the acrylic thinner (but may cause stress on the acrylic?) and then you have a seamless cone!!! how about vacum moulding? is it a good option if i have access to one?
So sorry for all my questions, hope im not to much of a pita =D
Blackizzz
hvacman250
New member
Technical questions:
After clamping and squaring the pieces, then pinning, before glueing, what is the correct way to apply the solvent? I have the solvent (WO 3, 4, and 16 and various app.bottles/needles). Putting down the solvent for the "bottom/horizontal" piece is self explanatory, but how do you get solvent on the upper/vertical piece? Or is the void that is pinned small enough to attract it to the upper piece via capillary action?
The glue that oozes out of the joint on the inside of the tank...I'm guessing it needs to be wiped up right away? Does it leave a blemish if it isnt wiped? Well, how can you wipe it off if the clamp is in the way?
Also, how do you go about running the solvent around a 6x2 footprint? Thats 16' of joint, and recommended time is 10-30 seconds soak before removing pins. Is multiple applicators/helpers mandatory?
Lastly, how much weight should be applied to the joint?
Thanks!
After clamping and squaring the pieces, then pinning, before glueing, what is the correct way to apply the solvent? I have the solvent (WO 3, 4, and 16 and various app.bottles/needles). Putting down the solvent for the "bottom/horizontal" piece is self explanatory, but how do you get solvent on the upper/vertical piece? Or is the void that is pinned small enough to attract it to the upper piece via capillary action?
The glue that oozes out of the joint on the inside of the tank...I'm guessing it needs to be wiped up right away? Does it leave a blemish if it isnt wiped? Well, how can you wipe it off if the clamp is in the way?
Also, how do you go about running the solvent around a 6x2 footprint? Thats 16' of joint, and recommended time is 10-30 seconds soak before removing pins. Is multiple applicators/helpers mandatory?
Lastly, how much weight should be applied to the joint?
Thanks!
make your own. there are tons of good plans out there, if you need help in that reguard.
Blackizz, bending acrylic to simple shapes is easy, forming it into complex ones is not. it can be done, but not something that the average diyer can do. Plastic is not cheap... Vaccum moulding is a option, but its alot more then just buying a vac pump.
How I've always built tanks/sumps/boxs is to build 2 "L"s with the side panels, connect them and then do the top and bottum.
I have no idea if thats the "right way", its just how I learned and how I've always done it. I'm sure when James comes around he will be able to tell you the correct way of doing things.
DO NOT WIPE UP OOZED OR SPILT SOLVENT!!! Let it dry, then polish it out.
There are a number of ways; blow molding into a female form, vacuum forming onto a male form, laminate a bunch of pieces together and stick the whole thing on a lathe, etc., or..just buy one from the states? there are a few companies that sell them
1/2" will be plenty
IMO building your own is the only way. I have yet to see a commercially available router table worth the effort of bringing it home, esp for our purposes.
we only glue on the horizontal plane. check this thread for a brief tutorial: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=390652
if done properly, there should be little to no ooze, and never wipe it up
a helper is nice, have him/her follow you around pulling wires/pins. One helper is all that's necessary. I do 6 x 10' tanks made from 2.5" acrylic with just a single helper.. it's doable, the trick is learning how to control the solvent flow with the applicator bottles. When you get this part down, you can use larger needles without spilling - makes things go a lot faster
if the pieces are square and sit flat, almost no weight. If you have to use a lot of weight, then you most likely have a squareness issue and weight won't help that.
James
blackizzz
New member
There are a number of ways; blow molding into a female form, vacuum forming onto a male form, laminate a bunch of pieces together and stick the whole thing on a lathe, etc., or..just buy one from the states? there are a few companies that sell them
James
Thanks! but do you have any of those companies names on hand, cant find any =/ especially not any that makes custom cones =( (for a decent price), i was hopeing that i could build this on a budget, a got the design ready and all i need is this fr***ing cone =P i thought about the lathe idea... but it ended up pretty expensive for the thick acrylic, it is a decent size cone im making, almost 16'' tall. (ok not that large =P but large enough=D)
thanks...
Blackizzz
