No, it's not about the lights. It's about the water. All acrylic is porous and will absorb water, as it does - it expands. Lids will always "cup" - meaning the bottom or "wet" side will always become convex and the top or "dry" side will always become concave. The wet side is absorbing moisture and growing, the dry side isn't.. Just make lids that you can flip over or use Lexan or similar polycarbonate material (recommended over acrylic for lids)
No clue about reviews on the PC routers. I only use the 3 1/4" HP in my tables. I have a few trim routers and one 1 1/2hp PC and it's about shot but then it's 15 years old
Can't answer what else you might need for 3/4" - not sure what you want to do
But as basics go, you got it. Yep, 1/4" shanks are more prone to flexing under load.
Personally, I freehand it on a router table. Just drill a pilot hole with a spade bit or forstner and use a 1/2" flushcutter to rough cut. But please note I do not recommend this. I'm just used to doing it so freehanding through 1.25" acrylic doesn't bother me. Never plunge acrylic, just bad juju. If you want, get a 3/4" bearing to fit on your flushcutter and rough it out - this will leave 1/8" to be removed on your final pass. Or use 5/8" bearing to leave 1/16" on your final pass.. it's all good
Yes and no. If you have to shim prior to gluing - you've got an issue somewhere. Pretty much the only shims I use are for use after gluing and my shims are only .030". But to be honest, could write a book just on shimming, more a "feel" thing rather than something that can be easily explained.
Denatured alcohol works well but depending on the latent stress in the material, may craze.
*I* would use 1.25" (31mm) you *may* get away with 1" but may also bow beyond tolerance. I have very strict tolerances on rimless tanks (learned from experience
)IMO you'd be better off making your own. IMO 106 and 109 suck, bad. 117 is more like Weld-on 4 or MCBond, but not nearly as strong - IMO it sucks too
I did practice pieces here at the shop with the Evonik chemist and rep and methylene chloride based products were far superior to any of their products. Perhaps your experiences will differ.In short, no. Just no. Trying it with a heat gun is a problem waiting to happen. There are a coupla companies welding PVC into joints but I've had to fix a few of those as well.
what is craze? kinda like making cloudy? and what do you mean by,"depending on latent stress"? Should I be worried about ruining my 300g?
I have to buff the whole thing if this makes a difference and the tank is empty right now..I am new to acrylic so sorry for the questions and thank you for~74kg
Crazing is little stress fractures. Depending on how stressed the material is, it may craze - may not with the addition of solvents such as alcohol. If it's made well - probably not an issue. But if the tank is made from material that is too thin (bowed a lot) or has lots of flame polished edges, may craze from latent stress when alcohol is applied.what is craze? kinda like making cloudy? and what do you mean by,"depending on latent stress"? Should I be worried about ruining my 300g?
your response
There was a thread bouncing around here a coupla days ago on polishing out a dry tank, his method seemed to work well
I've never used it to be honest. But the trade name "Perspex" is owned by Lucite, and Lucite has always made good stuff. Other than that - I can't say.
Do you mean "Arkema" rather than Ocamo? Never heard of Ocamo, but if it's Arkema.. Arkema is the company that owns Plexi-Glas. I would think one of two things if this is the case; either one is giving you the price for Plexi-Glas G sheet (good stuff) and the other is giving you the price for Plexi-Glas MC (extruded) or..... one is giving you the retail price for Plexi-Glas G and the other is giving you a *really good* wholesale price for the same sheet. My advice is to go check out the sheet; if it says "Plexi-Glas G" on it - you're good to go.
There was a thread bouncing around here a coupla days ago on polishing out a dry tank, his method seemed to work well
I've never used it to be honest. But the trade name "Perspex" is owned by Lucite, and Lucite has always made good stuff. Other than that - I can't say.
Do you mean "Arkema" rather than Ocamo? Never heard of Ocamo, but if it's Arkema.. Arkema is the company that owns Plexi-Glas. I would think one of two things if this is the case; either one is giving you the price for Plexi-Glas G sheet (good stuff) and the other is giving you the price for Plexi-Glas MC (extruded) or..... one is giving you the retail price for Plexi-Glas G and the other is giving you a *really good* wholesale price for the same sheet. My advice is to go check out the sheet; if it says "Plexi-Glas G" on it - you're good to go.
If there is yet another brand of acrylic on the market called Ocamo, I've never heard of it nor used it, so can't say. That said, I personally wouldn't use it until I've seen proof that it can hold a joint under pressure for several years.
The term "plexiglass" is used so generically now that I don't trust it, I need to *see* an actual brand name. "Plexiglass" is not a brand anywhere on the planet. "Plexi-glas" however, is. And yes, I am that picky
James
Yep, not the "preferred" way, but yep - will work just fine
3" eurobrace and 2 x 6" crossbraces, yielding 3 openings measuring 18 x 18"...works perfectly
1/2" will work just fine
