Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

George,
Water will go around the walls unless you bond it - no 2 ways about it. A false wall is fine, just keep in mind that the standpipe is now the *real* overflow and you need to keep sump capacity for that water level.
I try for 4" minimum access in overflows. Just to get my arm in there and being able to maneuver anything requires at least that much IME.

Luis,
IMO just get the heavy damage. Better to err on the side of caution and have too much capability than to not get enough and have to go through it again. It's only $10 difference :)

HTH,
James
 
Acrylics: all milled. 4" frame, 7" crossbeam and one side is 6" or so... for the overflow. Going to order a 3/4" bottom plate on monday. Probably going to glue the top on tomorrow. I'll post some images when I can get this friggin bluetoooth up'n running
 
OPINION

OPINION

JAMES, I have found and acrylic tank, 8' x 2.5' x 2.5' . Seller says its .5 or .75 thick (he'll let me know exactly). No top bracing and he is asking $700.00 . Do you thing it's a fair price, IYO ! neil
 
Sub,
I wouldnt trust that tank even with 1" acrylic with no top brace.
If it was in great shape, and 3/4", then its doable. I'd get it and put a top on it (after machining of course).

George,
You coud use a silicone sealant to seal the overflow wall in place too, just take James' advice in that the standpipes need to be your true overflow. Clean both surfaces well with alcohol first.

Sango-chu,
Just wanted to point out that Acrylicman and Acrylics are different people. Acrylicman is long gone and James (Acrylics) is the one who continues to enlighten us all. I'm sure your intentions were good, but James gets the credit here, IMO:) Please let us know how your polishing experience goes.
 
TRhanks for the heads up; really apreciated. James, A BIG SHOUT OUT AND THANKS!!!! ALthough I have not visited here often, I plan on it more so. I am having trouble finding someone to ship me a Heavy damage repair kit to my FPO AP address.

Acrylics: If you carry these kits I'd like to see if I can get one shipe USPS express mail to my address. PSC 559 Box 5038 FPO AP 96377. Its a USPS destination but shippers freak out when the see this unique address.

Any assistance, yet again, would be appreciated.
 
Sub,
I'd just repeat what H20ENG said, well put. Without top bracing, it's just a reptile tank IMO.

Borge,
Nice :)

Luis,
I don't carry them, sorry about that. I don't get why they would freak out about a Navy addy but if you run into too many more problems - lemme know via PM. We'll get ya taken care of :)

Chris,
Yep, I'd drive that but not with those rigs:eek2:

HTH,
James
 
There wouldnt be a reptile tank without a top in my house with my wife around! LOL
 
Acrylic sizing for ~200G tank; help

Acrylic sizing for ~200G tank; help

My first post to this forum. Believe it or not I have read through 95% of this thread; it is exactly what I have been searching for for weeks...great advice!

My question to you, I am planning to build a 72 X 20 X 30H display tank and would like some input on acrylic sizing (upgrading from a 75G glass). I have worked with thinner material in the past up to 1/4" but nothing with this water depth.

My inital plan was 3/4" all around with the requisite euro-braced top. 3/4" for the sides and 1/2" for the top and bottom may be more cost effective; but I am open to those with more experiance than myself.

Cheers,
Alan
 
3/4" everything except the bottom which 1/2" is good for. The top is a very very important piece and if you want anything to be sturdy its that piece so its worth it to be 3/4"
 
Hey acrylics gurus,
I'm sure this has been addressed somewhere and it's a very basic question, but this is a long thread to look through.

I have a glass tank and want to install black acrylic dividers and overflow box in the display. How can I get the acrylic to best adhere to the glass? I've heard that you can paint acrylic with Krylon fusion and get a little better bond with silicone. True?
 
Scotty1234,
My guess would be to tap the bottom with a 3/8" pipe tap and just screw in a JG fitting

Apex003,
The *best* way is to silicone the dividers in, then silicone strips on both sides of the dividers to hold them in place. Whether or not there's room in there for that - I dunno.
OTOH, there shouldn't be any pressure on them to speak of so maybe just silicone them in and call it good.

James
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12260879#post12260879 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Acrylics
Scotty1234,
My guess would be to tap the bottom with a 3/8" pipe tap and just screw in a JG fitting

James

Will this work for 1/8" tube and which drill bit size should I use to start this?
 
The drill bit size will depend on the JG fitting that you purchase. If the JG fitting is 1/4" NPT, then you will need a 1/4" NPT tap and the drill size is going to be 7/16"
 
pic

pic

179583sump.JPG


Hi Acrylic
here that pic sorry l'm still learning how to post pic in this forum' but sine this pic was taking i finish the sump. to reinforce i add weld-on 16 on the seam inside and out. i full it up with water for 2 days no leak so that a good sign, my question would it hold the sump 3/8 acrylic 40L X 15D X 16T with 3 bubble trap and 1 refugium trap.
 
Last edited:
Hey James, I just got a 24" cube and I need to drill a whole on the back panel for a bulkhead for my closed loop.

Do you have any secrets for drilling acrylic? It is 1/2" material, and I plan on using a 1" bulkhead . I absolutely love the tank and it's probably the some of the best work I have ever seen, and I don't want to risk ruining anything. So if you have any pointers it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Spleify
 
Back
Top