Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
firefighter1_emt_cop
New member
Just a quick question...planning on a 20x20x18 Rimless and was wondering thickness of the acrylic I would need to use. If I need to I can add a top, but would prefer not too.
Thanks guys!
Nate
Thanks guys!
Nate
firefighter1_emt_cop
New member
Thanks James. I think ill just use half inch and eurobrace the tank to save some money.
Hi James,
A quick question for you.
A good friend of mine used to make acrylic tanks for a living. He always told me to use Weld-On 40 for anything 3/8" or thicker. One thing that I have been reading from your discussions is confusing me a bit. My friend told me it is best to put a 3/32" angle on all edges to be glued....to create a channel I guess you would say and to create a stronger bond when using Weld-On 40, but in all of these pages I havent seen any reference to creating the same/similar angle for the edges to be glued (or maybe I missed it). I have also seen this same reference for creating the 3/32" angle in a few acrylic guides (Craftics for example). I will be making a sump (72"x18"16") using 3/8" cell cast (plexi-G) in the coming week using Weld-on 40 and want to make sure I am doing this right.
-Ryan
(check your PM)
A quick question for you.
A good friend of mine used to make acrylic tanks for a living. He always told me to use Weld-On 40 for anything 3/8" or thicker. One thing that I have been reading from your discussions is confusing me a bit. My friend told me it is best to put a 3/32" angle on all edges to be glued....to create a channel I guess you would say and to create a stronger bond when using Weld-On 40, but in all of these pages I havent seen any reference to creating the same/similar angle for the edges to be glued (or maybe I missed it). I have also seen this same reference for creating the 3/32" angle in a few acrylic guides (Craftics for example). I will be making a sump (72"x18"16") using 3/8" cell cast (plexi-G) in the coming week using Weld-on 40 and want to make sure I am doing this right.
-Ryan
(check your PM)
Ryan,
For the most part, using WO40 because it is "stronger" is waaaay past the point of diminishing returns. Even WO4 is good to something like 2500psi which is far greater than we will ever see in these tanks.
I don't go into placing the slight chamfer here (or 40 for that matter) because A) *very* few are going to do it and B) for most practical purposes it's not the normal method that most would use to build tanks, sumps, etc. it requires more tooling than most hobbyists are going to use so teach the simplest method that most would be comfortable with.
FWIW, a WO40 "joint" is strong, no doubt, but that does not translate into "bite" into acrylic. Put it this way, you can make a beautiful WO 40 "joint" between 2 pieces of steel, you can pull the pieces apart very easily since the 40 doesn't actually bite into the steel yet the joint itself may be very strong, get my meaning?
There are other reasons and esp why mfrs recommend 40 which is another story but hopefully this is a start
James
For the most part, using WO40 because it is "stronger" is waaaay past the point of diminishing returns. Even WO4 is good to something like 2500psi which is far greater than we will ever see in these tanks.
I don't go into placing the slight chamfer here (or 40 for that matter) because A) *very* few are going to do it and B) for most practical purposes it's not the normal method that most would use to build tanks, sumps, etc. it requires more tooling than most hobbyists are going to use so teach the simplest method that most would be comfortable with.
FWIW, a WO40 "joint" is strong, no doubt, but that does not translate into "bite" into acrylic. Put it this way, you can make a beautiful WO 40 "joint" between 2 pieces of steel, you can pull the pieces apart very easily since the 40 doesn't actually bite into the steel yet the joint itself may be very strong, get my meaning?
There are other reasons and esp why mfrs recommend 40 which is another story but hopefully this is a start
James
Hi Ryan,
While not *absolutely necessary*, the angle does help a good bit so yes, I'd recommend it. The 40 will follow surface tension (similar to capillary in this regard), since the gap will be smaller toward the inside - the 40 will "want" to go there first. To not have the angle leaves much more probability of voids and that sort of thing which we don't want
HTH,
James
While not *absolutely necessary*, the angle does help a good bit so yes, I'd recommend it. The 40 will follow surface tension (similar to capillary in this regard), since the gap will be smaller toward the inside - the 40 will "want" to go there first. To not have the angle leaves much more probability of voids and that sort of thing which we don't want
HTH,
James
wow, found this thread.
way too much info to digest in one setting
I just started my first acrylic DIY project. figured it would be small so went for a HOB skimmer.
good thing I went with cheap acrylic 'cause I suck. its mostly a 'see if it really works' type thing so not to worried about my crappy gluing. Think that when I make the one that i'll actually use, i'll build a rig. Oh, and read this thread in its entirety
way too much info to digest in one setting
I just started my first acrylic DIY project. figured it would be small so went for a HOB skimmer.
good thing I went with cheap acrylic 'cause I suck. its mostly a 'see if it really works' type thing so not to worried about my crappy gluing. Think that when I make the one that i'll actually use, i'll build a rig. Oh, and read this thread in its entirety
little_d
New member
I have a question regarding how to prep the edges so that it's ready for weld-on 4.
I will be building a 2x2x2 sump with 3/8 material, a local plastic shop already cut all pieces to size, I would like to know if I have to sand down the edges to be glued? If so what grade of sand paper to use?
Thanks
I will be building a 2x2x2 sump with 3/8 material, a local plastic shop already cut all pieces to size, I would like to know if I have to sand down the edges to be glued? If so what grade of sand paper to use?
Thanks
I aint nowhere near expert,
however i've been reading this thread and they say dont sand. sanding can round the edges.
since your ordering the pieces cut, specify smooth edges. that way they will cut them smooth with a router instead of their saw. dont accept it if not smooth.
however i've been reading this thread and they say dont sand. sanding can round the edges.
since your ordering the pieces cut, specify smooth edges. that way they will cut them smooth with a router instead of their saw. dont accept it if not smooth.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12741310#post12741310 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Acrylics
Hi Ryan,
While not *absolutely necessary*, the angle does help a good bit so yes, I'd recommend it. The 40 will follow surface tension (similar to capillary in this regard), since the gap will be smaller toward the inside - the 40 will "want" to go there first. To not have the angle leaves much more probability of voids and that sort of thing which we don't want
HTH,
James
Ok, got my acrylic cut this weekend....will post pictures as things go along. Thanks again James.
-Ryan
subshop
New member
JAMES, I just had some 1/2" acrylic cut for a sump and they did not have any #4 in stock. they had #3 but the fellow there said for their fabrication they use SC-125 solvent made by Caseway Industrial Products. They said it was clearer than Weldon 4 and the used this for all their fabrication work. Have you ever used this stuff? neil
Looks like SC-94 is like WO #5 used to be, and 125 is like #4. WO is not made like that anymore to supposedly improve air quality. Wonder if they'll ship to CA? 
http://www.casewayind.com/msds/SC94MSDS.DOC
What say you James?
http://www.casewayind.com/msds/SC94MSDS.DOC
What say you James?
Without knowing the ratios, I'd have to agree with Chris on this. As for being clearer than #4; the last time I used it - it had a pinkish tint to it so that may be the reasoning. I can't say how this translates into the joint since I don't use it but doubt it would be noticeable at all (the pink in #4)<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12758375#post12758375 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by H20ENG
Looks like SC-94 is like WO #5 used to be, and 125 is like #4. WO is not made like that anymore to supposedly improve air quality. Wonder if they'll ship to CA?
http://www.casewayind.com/msds/SC94MSDS.DOC
Last I heard, yep - they weren't going to make #5 anymore but MCBond was the same stuff anyway so no worries
James
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12761902#post12761902 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Acrylics
I got no pics of it so can't "answer" that
that guy deserves an award or something, i dont think anyones ever stumped james before.....well i guess he wasnt really stumped, just no pics, but close enough!
