Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

Got a question for the pro's!
I have the chance to aquire a 240 from a LFS but there is a problem. The tank is acrylic in nice condition but has a divider in the middle, is there a way to take the divider out? It doesnt serve any purpose but to divide the tank. The tank is eurobraced.
 
You could cut it out, but to get a cleaned up area as if it never existed will be a huge undertaking. Basically you'll have to cut away as much as possible, then sand it until it is flat, then even more sanding to erase all the scratches that occurred in the process.

It won't be fun.
 
The front panel will be the one that matters most, obviously. Whatever you leave behind in the sandbed would be hidden, and the backwall usually isn't too big a deal for some (it would drive me nuts to see a vertical line up the middle back panel of my tank though) people.
 
I was just thinking about that. If I do decide to go through with it i would make a tall pillar towards the back to help hide it. I dont know if i want to go through with all the work. Anyone want a project???
 
If you go look at Calvin's 12' long nano tank, you'll see video of how he sanded away a butted-seam to make it perfect.

And that was AFTER you cut away the internal baffle.
 
Thanks, I'll go look for it. I think im talking myself out of it now, thats alot more work than I the time for. I guess I can put it in my shop and work on it little by little.
I can have it Ft Worth in a little over a hour...... hint hint.....j/k
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13832108#post13832108 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jpitts101
Thanks, I'll go look for it. I think im talking myself out of it now, thats alot more work than I the time for. I guess I can put it in my shop and work on it little by little.
I can have it Ft Worth in a little over a hour...... hint hint.....j/k
If it's FREE - I don't know why you wouldn't take it. Especially if you have a shop to put it in, are in no rush and can work on it over time. The fact that you have a shop would indicate you have the skill sets (and probably tools) to simplify the work.

I’d go for it if I were you.

--Ed
 
Hello to all

A great thread on building & repairing plexiglass. I dabble in it a little & there are some good ideas to try on the next build
Not sure if this has been asked, the thread is just too long to search for it.

I would appreciate any advice on removing internal scratches on my plexi display. The old small snail in the Magfloat yesterday, was a real eye opener across the front panel. just not a good way to start the holiday.
I'm not sure of what grit of wet / dry sandpaper to start with & end with. 600? 1200? etc. etc all advice is welcomed

Thanks for a reply !!!!!!

A good & safe holiday season to all :wavehand:

Steve

:smokin:
 
You will need to buy an acrylic scratch repair kit. It will come with 8000, 12000, 16000 and higher grit sand paper. Follow the directions in the kit carefully and you can erase that scratch.
 
I built a small internal 4 sided overflow box (my first acrylic project).

I've now encountered a problem when trying to bond the box to the display tank. It turns out that the tank slightly bows (vertically and horizontally). This results in gaps of 1-2mm. Rather than clamping the 2 together while attempting the bond, should I try shaving the overflow box? What should I use to do this? Sandpaper (what grit) or ? Any other tips?

Many thanks!
Jeff
 
If you flip the tank on its back on a solid surface, will it flatten out enough to bond the box to the tank? Could you put weights on it to get an even pressure?
 
Hey Marc,

I could probably do what you proposed. Would that be preferable to shaping the box to match the shape the tank assumes with water in it? I'm worried about excessive stress on the welds when the tank is filled.

Thanks for your thoughts,
Jeff
 
The way I see it, the overflow box would reinforce the back and help it maintain a nice rigid straight back.

If you want to contour it to the shape of the tank, that works as well. It won't be so much a sanding task though, as much as scraping / whittling. Whatever you choose, you should use wires as spacers to make an even gap when you apply the Weld-on. After 45 seconds, pull the wires so the box can drop into place.
 
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