Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

yea well if i didn't get all the pieces for the price of a 24x48" piece i wouldn't be using 1.5 in lol thanks i will have to give it a try the only problem i have is my bottom panel 50x69" is slightly bowed i have it leveled out with a little weight on it for a few days to see if it straightens any suggestions to straighten the panels?


thanks
 
I'm not sure how you're going to glue the tank together so kinda hard to make any suggestions. I glue the bottoms on with the bottom full supported by foam covered strips of MDF so I don't worry about warpage on the bottom.
If you glue like I do, glue the bottom on concave side up, the weight of the tank itself will flatten the bottom so it becomes a moot issue.

It helps to keep the piece warm to help flatten it out. I have to deal with warpage all the time so you just figure out ways to either; A) make the warpage work in your favor, or B) figure out ways to make warpage irrelevant.

HTH,
James
 
Killer thread

Killer thread

Just wanted to thanks to James for stepping up and continue to help peeps like us.

I am planning on doing a couple of tanks myself and will refer to this thread ALOT....
 
ok i will have to try that thanks again for the info you will probably here from me again lol


edit what is the best way to fill a small gouge 16th in deep i really cant sand it out ill be there all day

#40???
 
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How hard is it to route teeth in 3/4" acrylic? Any special router bits needed?
Any tips would be helpful....thx

Building a 48x36x24 acrylic tank. What acrylic thickness would you guys recommend?
 
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I have absolutely ZERO to contribute to this thread but I have to say I love it! I love the information and the positive give and take. I love that professionals share their knowledge without expecting glory in return.

Thanks James.
 
henrystyle said:
How hard is it to route teeth in 3/4" acrylic? Any special router bits needed?
Any tips would be helpful....thx

Building a 48x36x24 acrylic tank. What acrylic thickness would you guys recommend?
Click to expand...

Henry, if you are going with a coast-to-coast overflow then you don't want teeth. Teeth reduce the surface skimming be reducing the overall linear overflow distance.

In any case, a spiral bit is likely going to work best. You will need to make a template to follow. Larger flat bladed bits will tend to overheat the thick acrylic if you try to plunge them in that deep to remove that much material. You will need the bit and a guide bushing to attache to your router.

How you make the template will depend on what type of tooling you have. Do you have a router table?

If you don't have the tools to make a pattern you can buy a dovetail template and use it.

31X6MCQMN4L._SS400_.jpg


http://www.amazon.com/709063-2-Inch-Aluminnum-Dovetail-Template/dp/B00006S7CC
 
henrystyle said:
How hard is it to route teeth in 3/4" acrylic? Any special router bits needed?
Any tips would be helpful....thx

Building a 48x36x24 acrylic tank. What acrylic thickness would you guys recommend?
Click to expand...
thickness depends on your tolerance for bracing. 1/2" is fine if you can allow for a centerbrace. If centerbrace is not in the cards, then yep - 3/4" or 1" at least for the vertical panels. With 3/4", I'd use a 4.5" eurobrace, with 1" material - 3" eurobrace all around is great.

IMO the best router bits for this are the Whiteside solid carbide 2 flute spiral upcuts, expensive little suckers but nothing better that I've seen.
Easy to route teeth, just a little tedious.
If you have a compressor - it will make life so much easier. Make a fixture or have a partner blow the chips out while you're touting the teeth. Otherwise the shavings build up in the slots and this can cause teeth to crack out.
Templates are nice but not necessary if you have a router table.

HTH,
James
 
I have a few of the Whiteside bits and have had good luck with them too. I also like the Amana and CMT bits.

FWIW I NEVER EVER EVER use my acrylic bits on MDF :) MDF kills bits!
 
BeanAnimal said:
FWIW I NEVER EVER EVER use my acrylic bits on MDF :) MDF kills bits!
Click to expand...
+ eleventy billion :)
Use acrylic bits *only* on acrylic, maybe polycarbonate, but nothing else, not even most other plastics. Some plastics like PVC and Formica (phenolic) are just brutal on cutters.

I mention the Whitesed cutters only because that's what I use daily so can heartily recommend them. There are other brands, of course, but nothing *better* than the Whitesides IME :)

James
 
BeanAnimal said:
Henry, if you are going with a coast-to-coast overflow then you don't want teeth. Teeth reduce the surface skimming be reducing the overall linear overflow distance.
Click to expand...
This is what I was planning to do. For my tank I wanted to do the coast to coast overflow having the back panel routed with teeth going straight across the back. This would overflow into an external overflow box. Then I read that the teeth reduce the effectiveness of the overflow. (Bean)

So, then I thought instead of teeth I can do 1/4" to 1/2" slot across the back panel to overflow the water that way. The problem with this idea is there would be nothing to glue the eurobracing panel to in the back, basically defeating the whole purpose of the brace. The front and back sheets would bow out...... Any suggestions?
 
You wouldn't route your (slot) from the top of the back panel IMO....Why not drop down about an 1" or 1.5" and cut your slot....that way you still have an area to glue the top eurobracing too.....
 
chriscobb said:
You wouldn't route your (slot) from the top of the back panel IMO....Why not drop down about an 1" or 1.5" and cut your slot....that way you still have an area to glue the top eurobracing too.....
Click to expand...
My whole focus is that I want nothing but surface water to flow into my overflow box. If I add the slot 1 -1.5" below, thats where the water will come from. The surface water will not get drained. The surface is where all the organics collect. Dont need that stuff blocking my light. Also provides good oxygenation for the tank. Dont want any oil slick in my tank....
 
flamron said:
I would think that the slot would become your surface - or am I thinking incorrectly?
Click to expand...
I don't think that slot will pull water from the surface. My logic says it will take in water from below. Wherever that slot is I believe that will be my water line...

I dont know...I'm trying something new here.
 
They don't split anymore. The splits were automatic and required due to the databasae structure of the previous version of the forum software.
 
The bottom of the slit would actually be your top water level inside the tank....So your water level wouldn't actually be to the very top of the tank.....and with the water level down a tad it would be skimming the top surface or layer of water. It would also give you something to glue your eurobracing to as well
 
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