Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!

[Acrylics]

I just picked up a used but never setup 600 gal acrylic and someone has painted the back black anyone know of anything that will remove paint from acrylic Thanks for any input

Depends on the paint, but no, generally no good way to remove it

So is the coat a light film on my piece of acrylic?? would a light sanding remove it?

Not a film but rather a hardcoat that is essentially sprayed on, then it hardens. But yes, a light sanding should do it. I'd prolly go 320 grit

Anyone ever use Polycast PG acrylic? Any good?

Polycast PG? got a link with info on that? A google search comes up with zilch and I've never heard of it so couldn't tell ya anything.

James

 

[henrystyle]

Polycast PG? got a link with info on that? A google search comes up with zilch and I've never heard of it so couldn't tell ya anything.

James

Just called the plastic guy back and its actually Polycast GP not PG.. General Purpose.

 

[Acrylics]

Just called the plastic guy back and its actually Polycast GP not PG.. General Purpose.

Makes a lot more sense. Funny though, I've *never* seen Polycast labeled as GP, not on the material, ship tickets, nor invoices. Polycast cell cast acrylic though is simply the best commercially available material for our applications and the only acrylic I use for tanks, for whatever that's worth.

HTH,
James

 

[henrystyle]

All this time I have been looking for a acrylic supplier and Spartech has a plant in New Jersey. Its right along my route back and forth to work.. Unreal. Cut all the middle men out. Also they said they can cut out my eurobrace/centerbrace for me as well.....
http://www.spartech.com/polycast/locations.html

 

[WmTasker]

No, you like to use a good quality cell cast. Almost all of the imports are inconsistent in quality controls so IMO they are to be avoided for these applications. There are a couple that are okay, but they are rare to find in a plastic shop and you'd have to know the coding on the inspection stickers to discern these.

IMO the only cast acrylics that are good for our purposes are: Polycast, Acrylite GP, and Plexi-Glas G, in that order of preference. Please do not listent to any salesperson who says all cast acrylic are the same, they are not, not by a long shot. Just about every tank mfr in this country uses one of the 3 above brands, and for good reason

3/8" should be just fine with a 3" eurobrace. I'd use 1/2" but 3/8" will do nicely

HTH,
James

I moved over to this thread. I didn't want to high jack kahkaw's thread, but I had a few more question for you.

I am wanting to make a frag tank 24x24x8 fo under my main tank. If I use 3/8 for it, should I still have a 3" eurobrace or can I just have a 3" side brace on both left and right? I am trying to save on acrylic.

The sump will be 24x18x12. same question?

 

[GrouperGenius]

I have a problem, and just now found out about Chemcast acrylic. I'll let the pics tell the story.

7 months later....

 

[GrouperGenius]

I am putting some Weld-on 4 in a little at a time. This tank is 95 x 30 x 18 tall. I can't find any other spots where this is happening. Originally the glueing was done with Caseway PS-30.

Any ideas are welcome and appreciated.

Thanks, Mark

 

[WmTasker]

I have a new question. When attaching the four sides to the bottom piece of acrylic, should the sides be glued directly on the bottom plate or should the side wrap around the bottom plate? Then the top plate sets on top of the four sides.

Thanks again.

 

[khoivo1]

run out get some weldon 3-4 put it in there,,it will help glue it back,,,my old cellcast tank does that too,,after i put weldon glue into the gap,,,its tide now,,but you still see the mark,,,hope that help

I have a problem, and just now found out about Chemcast acrylic. I'll let the pics tell the story.

7 months later....

 

[khoivo1]

I have a new question. When attaching the four sides to the bottom piece of acrylic, should the sides be glued directly on the bottom plate or should the side wrap around the bottom plate? Then the top plate sets on top of the four sides.

Thanks again.

the side glue on top of the bottom pc for sure,,goodluck,,

 

[troylee]

I am putting some Weld-on 4 in a little at a time. This tank is 95 x 30 x 18 tall. I can't find any other spots where this is happening. Originally the glueing was done with Caseway PS-30.

Any ideas are welcome and appreciated.

Thanks, Mark

Well according to james chemcast fails catostophically more than any other material......I would be draining that tank in a hurry......by putting any solvent in there you are making it worse imo.... you are softing a joint that has already failed and really flirting with disaster trying to repair it full of water....as your solvent softens the joint you have more pressure on that joint than any other seam on the tank.....I would be building a new tank in a hurry anddrain that one pronto!!!!!! Maybe find a loaner for the time being to hold your stuff.....but honestly I would not ever squirt solvent in that seam while it is full or empty for that matter it will never be a strong bond again......sorry man..good luck.........

 

[henrystyle]

Anyone know how to calculate the size of a RDSB in relation to tank size? I am building a 120 gallon tank. 48x24x24. I am currently trying to design my sump as well. I would like to know how much space is needed for the RDSB section I am putting in my sump for it to be beneficial to my tank. I know the depth wanted (6 inches). Trying to figure out the L and W that it should be. (really just the length)
Right now the sump dimensions are looking like 36x16x16...
Just trying to get my internal sump sections the right size to fit everything.

 

[henrystyle]

double post

 

[Acrylics]

I am putting some Weld-on 4 in a little at a time. This tank is 95 x 30 x 18 tall. I can't find any other spots where this is happening. Originally the glueing was done with Caseway PS-30.

Is this a home-built tank or did you have it made? That bottom joint does not look like PS-30 at all. If it was PS-30, adding WO would do nothing beneficial.

The back appears to be Plexi-Glas G so that might explain why it isn't having similar issues. Plex G is a much better material for these applications.

Personally, I'd drain it yesterday, esp knowing the joint degenerated that much in 7 months. Whether the bonding agent was PS-30 or WO is relatively irrelevant at this point, it's not biting into the acrylic well enough to have any confidence in it IMO.

Wish I could say something better,
James

 

[rkaires]

Hi James,

I'm looking to have a new display tank built in the near future. The dimensions will be 60x24x24 with an external overflow on the rear panel. I would love to have it built with a 4" euro around the perimeter and no center brace. If it were built with 3/4" material through out do you feel it would be sufficient?

Thanks,

 

[GrouperGenius]

Is this a home-built tank or did you have it made? That bottom joint does not look like PS-30 at all. If it was PS-30, adding WO would do nothing beneficial.

The back appears to be Plexi-Glas G so that might explain why it isn't having similar issues. Plex G is a much better material for these applications.

Personally, I'd drain it yesterday, esp knowing the joint degenerated that much in 7 months. Whether the bonding agent was PS-30 or WO is relatively irrelevant at this point, it's not biting into the acrylic well enough to have any confidence in it IMO.

Wish I could say something better,
James

Home built. And it was PS-30. I still have some.

Tank is drained out and rock, corals, and critters are in a 150 rubbermaid tub and a 40 breeder I had laying around. Debating whether I want to fix the tank, or just get an All-glass 180 or Marineland 300.

 

[TampaReefer79]

Quick acrylic question...

I'm setting up a new 375 and had to sell my gorgeous MRC 36" reef sump as my new skimmer for this beast didn't fit. My new tank came with a sump, a 120 (4x2x2) with a few TINY baffles in it. I mean, this baffles might not even be 3 inches tall.

The question is this: Can acrylic baffles in an acrylic sump be removed? If so, how?

Then how easy is it to have new baffles cut out of acrylic (where would you order this) and secured into the sump where I want them?

I was going to go ahead and buy the MRC 48" sump...but at $1000 and already having a 48" sump of the SAME dimensions, I was hoping I could get these baffles out and essentially make my own sump that will be identical to the $1000 MRC sump.

Thanks!

P.S. Mark...sorry to see you in here with the problems you're having. I can give you a hand whenever you need it. I have some rubbermaid stock tanks if you need them. 150 and 100 gallons.

 

[GrouperGenius]

Quick acrylic question...

I'm setting up a new 375 and had to sell my gorgeous MRC 36" reef sump as my new skimmer for this beast didn't fit. My new tank came with a sump, a 120 (4x2x2) with a few TINY baffles in it. I mean, this baffles might not even be 3 inches tall.

The question is this: Can acrylic baffles in an acrylic sump be removed? If so, how?

Then how easy is it to have new baffles cut out of acrylic (where would you order this) and secured into the sump where I want them?

I was going to go ahead and buy the MRC 48" sump...but at $1000 and already having a 48" sump of the SAME dimensions, I was hoping I could get these baffles out and essentially make my own sump that will be identical to the $1000 MRC sump.

Thanks!

P.S. Mark...sorry to see you in here with the problems you're having. I can give you a hand whenever you need it. I have some rubbermaid stock tanks if you need them. 150 and 100 gallons.

Thanks. My sump might fit your needs. It might not fit my new tank.

 

[troylee]

Hi James,

I'm looking to have a new display tank built in the near future. The dimensions will be 60x24x24 with an external overflow on the rear panel. I would love to have it built with a 4" euro around the perimeter and no center brace. If it were built with 3/4" material through out do you feel it would be sufficient?

Thanks,

Those are the exact demensions of my tank..besides one side drops to 36" deep and i only used a 3" euro around the perimeter and no signs of deflection yet..it has been running a month so far....i have seen you name in my thread so you know what im talking about lol...:lol:

 

[troylee]

Quick acrylic question...

I'm setting up a new 375 and had to sell my gorgeous MRC 36" reef sump as my new skimmer for this beast didn't fit. My new tank came with a sump, a 120 (4x2x2) with a few TINY baffles in it. I mean, this baffles might not even be 3 inches tall.

The question is this: Can acrylic baffles in an acrylic sump be removed? If so, how?

Then how easy is it to have new baffles cut out of acrylic (where would you order this) and secured into the sump where I want them?

I was going to go ahead and buy the MRC 48" sump...but at $1000 and already having a 48" sump of the SAME dimensions, I was hoping I could get these baffles out and essentially make my own sump that will be identical to the $1000 MRC sump.

Thanks!
Cutting them out with a router is your best bet...but no way to cut them completly flush or removing them with out cutting them...sorry...

P.S. Mark...sorry to see you in here with the problems you're having. I can give you a hand whenever you need it. I have some rubbermaid stock tanks if you need them. 150 and 100 gallons.

no the only way to remove them would be routing them out preferably...but besides cutting them there is no other way of removing them....
and getting them cut flush is dang near impossible....