rkaires
New member
Thanks Troylee! I love the way the euro brace turned out on your tank and that's the reason why I would love to incorporate it in my next tank. BTW I think your overflow turned out awesome.
Acrylic fabrication questions? I can help!
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Thanks Troylee! I love the way the euro brace turned out on your tank and that's the reason why I would love to incorporate it in my next tank. BTW I think your overflow turned out awesome.
Personally, no. It'll hold water without much issue, but over time it may start to bow a little. My personal tanks were the same size but made from 1" with 3" eurobrace, bowed about 1/8" or a little better after a year. Not bad, but I'd rather see less, mayhaps I'm being too picky but that's what I like to see. Being made from thinner material, I'd think that it would bow a little more over time, even with the slightly wider flange.
James
rkaires
New member
Thank you James. I value your opinion and guess I need to make a decision. Do you think there is a good possibility of failure with that amount of deflection?
Thanks,
No, not at all
It's not about possibility of failure to me though. The biggest gripe reefers have with acrylic is scratching. The more a tank bows - the easier it is to scratch when cleaning. The scrapers don't sit flat on the panel if it's bowed much, only the two outer points of the scraper make contact. When this happens, people tend to press harder than they should have to and are more apt to scratch it and debris can get caught between the scraper and tank wall - again increasing the possibility of scratching. Flatter panels are easier to clean, therefore less apt to scratch. When people get fewer scratches, they are happier with their tanks. I'd like people to be happy with their tanks, not just when they first fill, but for many years James
rkaires
New member
No, not at all
James
Very well put. Thank you!
So, I have (had) a zero-edge aquiarium and am in the process of converting it into a regular, non zero-edge aquarium. Either I scratched it pretty badly or the folks over there don't polish it completely, but it has quite a few scratches. They have gone unnoticed since there has always been water on both sides of the acrylic. I've done a little research and I think I'll try sanding and completely redoing the tank. Can anyone answer a few questions?
-I've read alot about micro-mesh? Does this need to be used or will regular ewt/dry sand paper work?
-For best results should I do this by hand or using a sander?
-I've read to start horizontally, then go vertical, horiz, vert, etc with each increasing grit. Will this remove circular scratches as well?
-Any other info would be appreciated. I'm just a little nervous and don't want to ruin my tank!!
-I've read alot about micro-mesh? Does this need to be used or will regular ewt/dry sand paper work?
-For best results should I do this by hand or using a sander?
-I've read to start horizontally, then go vertical, horiz, vert, etc with each increasing grit. Will this remove circular scratches as well?
-Any other info would be appreciated. I'm just a little nervous and don't want to ruin my tank!!
IMO the Micro-Mesh should be used. Micro-Mesh goes through 12,000 grit - much finer than any other wet/dry
I like the hand kits but there are kits for electric sanders as well, they work fine
Personally, I don't like to alternate - I go all in the horizontal direction but won't argue it either way. In either case, yes, it will remove circular scratches
It will look bad at first then it will clear up as you go through the process. You will need to use a coarse paper like 320-400 or maybe even 240 to get out the deepest scratches then proceed to go through the steps. So if you need 240 to get the deep scratches out, 320 would be next, then 400, 600, and so on until you hit 1200-1500 where you'll start the MM series.
Use lots of water when using the Micro-Mesh, and I mean lots. I like to have a spray bottle full of water handy too keep the area wet. Rinse the sandpaper and Micro-Mesh often in fresh water.
If you have an inconspicuous area, try it there first so you'll "get it" better and you'll get some confidence in it
In the end, it's a tedious job but well worth it.
HTH,
James
madmike
New member
Hey james
Got all of the pieces 45'd and am starting to put them together. The first try failed miserably but I learned from it and have done another. The second turned out good, but not quite perfect. What kind of table setup would you recommend for joining these pieces perfectly? I've got a few ideas but not quite sure what would be the best way.
BTW thanks for giving me the extra 42 tube, it looks like I'll need it. I'll pay you for it when I bring back the 42 gun ok?
Thanks again for all of the help.
Mike
Got all of the pieces 45'd and am starting to put them together. The first try failed miserably but I learned from it and have done another. The second turned out good, but not quite perfect. What kind of table setup would you recommend for joining these pieces perfectly? I've got a few ideas but not quite sure what would be the best way.
BTW thanks for giving me the extra 42 tube, it looks like I'll need it
. I'll pay you for it when I bring back the 42 gun ok?Thanks again for all of the help.
Mike
James thanks for your reply. I feel alot less worried and I'm ready to start. Could you clarify one thing for me though? You're saying to use sand paper at first then once I'm up to 1200-1500 grit sand paper start with the roughest micro-mesh and work up through it correct?
Also, what about polishing the tank? Does the finest micro-mesh polish the tank or do I need something else to polish it with? I've heard people recommending to use novus 1 and a buffer. What's your opinion?
Thanks a million!
Also, what about polishing the tank? Does the finest micro-mesh polish the tank or do I need something else to polish it with? I've heard people recommending to use novus 1 and a buffer. What's your opinion?
Thanks a million!
I have been sanding and buffing a 240 tank for the past few weeks when I have time. And time is something you need to have if you plan on buffing a tank. I bought micromesh discs and that wasn't coarse enough, so ended up using 300 and 600 aluminum oxide discs, then some wet sand paper in 400 and 600 grit by hand (which sucks but I think it works bette)r, then the micromesh and am starting to get somewhere. You definitely need to be careful to flush the paper and acrylic often so you don't create more scratches...I also ordered the novus 3 part system and I must say that it does a good job of polishing once you get up past 3200 micromesh. I did the back panel of my tank first so I could figure out what I was doing and am now onto the front panel so I will really be taking my time..it is a good feeling when you get it polished up and look through though! Its a ton of work, but I think it will be worth it!
madmike
New member
James
What kind of tape do you recommend to keep the cement in the joint? The first one I did i just put the two pieces on my router table and had a bunch of weight on them. I had them about 1/16" apart and filled the gap, but when I pressed them together the blue painters tape pushed up into the joint
.
So my second round I used the stand I have built for the tank, it is two 6 foot stands that can be separated to get them into the house easier. I separated the stand in the middle by about 6 inches and placed the gap in the middle. I clamped the pieces down and against a straight angle iron piece on the side and taped and filled the gap. When I pressed it together it went together good, the tape could go the opposite way into the gap below and wasn't forced into the gap. This piece turned out really well except for a small amount of dry joint.... I didn't realize I got the pieces too close and they pressed out all of the cement in a small area.
So you would do it as the first try with both pieces on the same table weighted down? Maybe I am using the wrong kind of tape for this? I was thinking of routing a small channel in the bottom of my table that I could lay the gap on so the tape isn't forced up into the gap, do you think this is a good idea?
Thanks again for all of the help! I was pretty bummed after the first try, but now that I have flipped the second piece to see the joint, I realize that I CAN do this. And I needed to take off about 6 inches on each of the long sides so it might as be out of the middle, lol.
What kind of tape do you recommend to keep the cement in the joint? The first one I did i just put the two pieces on my router table and had a bunch of weight on them. I had them about 1/16" apart and filled the gap, but when I pressed them together the blue painters tape pushed up into the joint
. So my second round I used the stand I have built for the tank, it is two 6 foot stands that can be separated to get them into the house easier. I separated the stand in the middle by about 6 inches and placed the gap in the middle. I clamped the pieces down and against a straight angle iron piece on the side and taped and filled the gap. When I pressed it together it went together good, the tape could go the opposite way into the gap below and wasn't forced into the gap. This piece turned out really well except for a small amount of dry joint.... I didn't realize I got the pieces too close and they pressed out all of the cement in a small area.
So you would do it as the first try with both pieces on the same table weighted down? Maybe I am using the wrong kind of tape for this? I was thinking of routing a small channel in the bottom of my table that I could lay the gap on so the tape isn't forced up into the gap, do you think this is a good idea?
Thanks again for all of the help! I was pretty bummed after the first try, but now that I have flipped the second piece to see the joint, I realize that I CAN do this. And I needed to take off about 6 inches on each of the long sides so it might as be out of the middle, lol.
ReefTECK
New member
I was wondering how panels should be put together during construction?
or rather in what orientation.
Currently I have in mind, using a base board, and welding the edge of all side front and back panels on top of said base board.
Two of these side panels are already attached in this fashion, I picked up a semi box sort of thing pre constructed as scrap, and I have enough in panels to make a 33x33x15" tank.
One thing I have considered is should I glue front and back panels on top of base board and in between side panels OR in front of side panels and down over the front of base board panel?
Additionally I would ask your opinion on structural integrity of this design, all thickness calculators I have used suggest that it should be fine. The tank will be constructed of 3/8" Plexiglas G panels and enclosed by a single piece top that forms a 5" rim all the way around.
Thanks for your expertise!
-Andy
or rather in what orientation.
Currently I have in mind, using a base board, and welding the edge of all side front and back panels on top of said base board.
Two of these side panels are already attached in this fashion, I picked up a semi box sort of thing pre constructed as scrap, and I have enough in panels to make a 33x33x15" tank.
One thing I have considered is should I glue front and back panels on top of base board and in between side panels OR in front of side panels and down over the front of base board panel?
Additionally I would ask your opinion on structural integrity of this design, all thickness calculators I have used suggest that it should be fine. The tank will be constructed of 3/8" Plexiglas G panels and enclosed by a single piece top that forms a 5" rim all the way around.
Thanks for your expertise!
-Andy
Hi Andy,
IMO the best way is to glue the ends between the front and back, then glue that assembly to the top, then flip and glue to the bottom.
Structurally it sounds good. You could even narrow the top perimeter flange a little and still be in good shape
HTH,
James
ReefTECK
New member
Hey James thanks for chiming in on my thread too. I appreciate your input! I'm glad to hear from a professional that the project doesn't have to be scraped entirely, I picked up all this acrylic for FREE! I wouldn't have the cash for this project otherwise, I got too many other reef projects going on at the moment!
In the past I have used dimethyl chloride as a welding solvent, is that what Weld On is anyways? Is it a acceptable adhesive/solvent?
Thanks again!
Andy Long
In the past I have used dimethyl chloride as a welding solvent, is that what Weld On is anyways? Is it a acceptable adhesive/solvent?
Thanks again!
Andy Long
troylee
In Memoriam
thought i would add this link to the rest of the acrylic journey..:lol:
pretty much is great detail of everything explained in this thread...
http://www.altumax.com/literature/pdf/134.pdf
pretty much is great detail of everything explained in this thread...
http://www.altumax.com/literature/pdf/134.pdf
Never seen it as dimethyl chloride but take a look at the bottle, it should read methylene chloride or dichloromethane. If the same, then yep, it's the primary ingredient in almost all acrylic solvents. By itself, it produces the strongest bonds, but it doesn't flow that well and is very fast acting so very little working time. To lengthen the working time, add 5-10% glacial acetic acid (not photography type as it is 20% water) the acid will help the solvent flow smoother as well. Don't add too much though or the joint can get a grainy appearance to it.
HTH,
James
ReefTECK
New member
Sweet link! thanks dude!
And thanks again James, I've got everything I need from you guys to get this project finished. I'll post some pix when I'm done. Don't be surprised if it takes me a couple of weeks (I'm a busy guy).
Thanks again!
Andy
